GOLD TIP LASER 2 CARBON BOLTS ????????

willyhuntsdeer · Post by **willyhuntsdeer** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 6:06 pm

Hi...

even though i hunted all my life with aluminum arrows and bolts, i am new to all this carbon stuff.

i recently bought a dozen gold tip laser2 bolts and was under the impression that they were complete and ready to use, well...they came and i find out that the inserts and nocks need to be installed

can anyone please tell me what doing so involves, does the carbon shafts have to be prepared a certain way or is there a certain type of glue that needs to be used when installing them myself.

also....i slid one of the brass inserts into the tip end of the shaft and it fits rather loosely, is this normal? or should i contact the seller and tell them there is a problem and i want replacements?

any or all help that can be provided will be greatly appreciated
thanks much, Willy

diesel · Post by **diesel** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 7:44 pm

Of all the glues I have used Nothing works as well as Goat Tuff. That is the best.
All the gold Tip lanser II bolts I have done. I have never got 12 bolts that all weighed the same. Most of the time there will be 6 or 8 bolts the same and the rest would vary 2 to 8 gr.
I like to take a gun cleaning brush that fits snug in the end of the bolt and twist and turn it in side the bolt. Clean the inserts with asitone or lacquer thinner. Put some glue on the insert and push it in, do the same with the nock.
Now if you want a matched set that take more. You will need to weigh each bolt, insert, and noch. Then what do you want the total weight of the bolt to be, what kind of FOC do you want.
Now is when the real fun starts. You will need to cut down or add weight to the inserts or nocks so all the bolts weigh the same and have the same FOC.
It's a lot of fun and it really feels good when your all done and you take all those bolts, weigh them and they all weigh the same. You shot each bolt and they all shoot the same. Well owning an Excalibur helps with that .
After you do you first set then you start making them for friends and family. You buy paint to crest them and start cutting turkey feathers and it goes on and on and on and you have to do more and more . Till that day when your wife and family take you to that new home with all the padded rooms and they put this caot on you. You know the one the sleeves that tie behind your back.
No it's not a big deal at all.

willyhuntsdeer · Post by **willyhuntsdeer** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 8:43 pm

is it that critical far as matched weights?

i used to have a Horton and it shot great with aluminums that was made by a archery shop in PA. and i am certain they weren't matched weights.

i will be shooting them with a new Excalibur Phoenix, unless i end up reselling it and getting an Exocet before i even use it the first time...lol

the Exocet was my first choice but the Phoenix just seemed to fit better and was much more comfortable when holding it as if i were aiming to shoot.

now i find myself wondering if i won't live to regret having not gone with my first choice

GaryL · Post by **GaryL** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 9:00 pm

willyhuntsdeer wrote:is it that critical far as matched weights?

i used to have a Horton and it shot great with aluminums that was made by a archery shop in PA. and i am certain they weren't matched weights.

In my opinion yes it is critical to make sure your arrows are matched as close as possible. Take a 1/2 doz arrows and 3 are 424gr total weight and 3 are all screwed up and weigh 400gr, 350gr, 385gr., do you really think they are going to shoot the same

You just happen to sight in with the 350gr arrow and are happy with the results, however that evening you go out deer hunting and low and behold you happen to load up with the arrow that weighs 424gr

That just might mean a wounded deer or a complete miss

Get your self a small cheap weight scale in grains to keep your arrows matched as close as possible. Do a GOOGLE for grain scales and their be some nice one's at very good prices ....

willyhuntsdeer · Post by **willyhuntsdeer** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 9:05 pm

wow...

i thought any repubitle archery shop wouldn't just cut them all crazy, figured they would at least try to keep them close as possible...

guess 'figuring' is sorta like 'thought' huh? we all know what thought did

ok then...is the type scale that is used for reloading the same thing?

Normous · Post by **Normous** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 9:57 pm

Yes, a reloading type grain scale would be ideal.

Norm

GREYWOLF · Post by **GREYWOLF** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 10:17 pm

all bolt mfg. co. as well as regular shafts mfg. have a weight tollerance as well as a straightness rating. This is why if you want a matched set within weight and straightness tollerances , you buy matched sets ,.from a custom arrow maker that uses a scale and (1) jig to make all the shafts, .

If you want quality accurate weight bolts.! not mach. made by the hundreds , buy from a custom arrow maker, or learn the how too's and you make your own . It's not hard , But well worth the time and expence
GREYWOLF

Stosh · Post by **Stosh** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 5:22 am

I use hot melt glue, Just in case I ever want to remove them. Clamp an old field tip in a vise, screw on the insert part way, Heat it for a few seconds, rub glue stick on it, You will get the feel for the heat just by how the glue melts, slide on the shaft, clean excess glue. Does not need much glue, make sure its all the way around the insert.

Good luck, Stosh

Pydpiper · Post by **Pydpiper** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 7:12 am

The GT II'2 are awesome shafts. If you got some that are cut erratically than they are more than likely not square either, keep an eye on that. All the consistancy in the world won't be worth a hill of beans if that insert is sitting anything but square. The G5 ASD tool is a perfect way to square them, and with a bit of time it will also adjust the length.
Grain scales are a bit more costly than a gram scale, I bought a gram scale to do direct comparisons for my own sake, and if you need to know the grains just type the conversion into goggle, it will give you the grain equivalent. Ex: "15 grams to grains" into the Google tool bar will give you an exact number.
I use a form of super glue for my inserts and nocks, after weighing them I put a film of the glue on the insert or nock and spin it into the shaft, that insures a smooth even coat, be quick, that glue sets fast.
I got the gram scale at a local head shop, paid around $20.

crazyfarmer · Post by **crazyfarmer** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 8:45 am

GREYWOLF wrote: or learn the how too's and you make your own . It's not hard , But well worth the time and expence
GREYWOLF

I can vouch for that... took me a whole 3 hours to get the hang of making mine now. I need to get a scale though later this year just to make sure everything is fairly close weight wise

I just like making my own since you take more pride when you kill something with one. Also, most of the fletching colors suk from the dealer. Hardly no one puts white vanes on bolts or arrows now