Shootin' ( "Accuracy test" )
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STEELWORKER
- Posts: 451
- Joined: Mon Aug 09, 2004 9:50 pm
- Location: southwestern pa
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STEELWORKER
- Posts: 451
- Joined: Mon Aug 09, 2004 9:50 pm
- Location: southwestern pa
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grandtrout
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2005 10:16 am
- Location: guelph, ontario
I use a Vari-zone scope on my phoenix for shots out to 70 yards. I set the scope up to shoot 305 fps & set the cross hair for 30 (10 yard mark becomes 20) so I get ranges out to 60 yards. For 70 yards I turn the scope down to the 260 fps setting and use the bottom mark. This puts me right on at 70 (close enough that I can't tell if I'm not sighted in perfectly).
For 80 I hold about 3 & 1/2 feet over or roughly the difference between the 20 & 50 marks when my scope is set to 260 (I use the marks as a reference on what 3.5 feet looks like at that range & then hold over the same amount) Ideally there is a leaf or branch that appears in the background 3 feet over the top of the target ~ then I hold the 60 yard (@260) mark on it. For shots over 80 I have the bolt drop taped to my stock at 5 yards increments & then I just take a stab at it.
I don't hunt at these ranges but love to shoot them. Something about sticking an arrow in a 3D deer at 80 yards realy gets me going. I forget the lost bolts & misses in a day but the shot I made on a 3d turkey at 90 yards last fall will stick with me for a while.
Bench rested or braced I can shoot 6 inch groups at 70 with great consistancy & (often better) but at 80 the group realy starts to spread to about 12 and at 100+ i'm thrilled if I find the bolt.
Beyond 70 the arrow drop is really significant so you really need to know the range not guess.
I switched from 4 inch feathers to 2 inch blazers last year and it really improved my down range groups & speed, even though they both weigh about the same. With 4 inch feathers at 70 yards I needed to use the lowest speed on the vari-zone & was still a bit low. I have a level taped to my riser & have a wood stock & the string stopper system so my bow is extreamly forgiving & quiet. I think this helps with the long range groups.
For 80 I hold about 3 & 1/2 feet over or roughly the difference between the 20 & 50 marks when my scope is set to 260 (I use the marks as a reference on what 3.5 feet looks like at that range & then hold over the same amount) Ideally there is a leaf or branch that appears in the background 3 feet over the top of the target ~ then I hold the 60 yard (@260) mark on it. For shots over 80 I have the bolt drop taped to my stock at 5 yards increments & then I just take a stab at it.
I don't hunt at these ranges but love to shoot them. Something about sticking an arrow in a 3D deer at 80 yards realy gets me going. I forget the lost bolts & misses in a day but the shot I made on a 3d turkey at 90 yards last fall will stick with me for a while.
Bench rested or braced I can shoot 6 inch groups at 70 with great consistancy & (often better) but at 80 the group realy starts to spread to about 12 and at 100+ i'm thrilled if I find the bolt.
Beyond 70 the arrow drop is really significant so you really need to know the range not guess.
I switched from 4 inch feathers to 2 inch blazers last year and it really improved my down range groups & speed, even though they both weigh about the same. With 4 inch feathers at 70 yards I needed to use the lowest speed on the vari-zone & was still a bit low. I have a level taped to my riser & have a wood stock & the string stopper system so my bow is extreamly forgiving & quiet. I think this helps with the long range groups.
Tye I think he's having a hard time believing, and inferring that you're "full of s--t" about your shooting.TYE wrote:STEELWORKER wrote:hey Tye are you ALWAYS constipated?you may need help you know
ComfyBear
Micro Axe 340, Matrix 380, Matrix 355, Matrix 350, Exocet 200
ComfyBear Strings
G5 Montecs 125gr., SlickTrick 125 gr. Magnums
To thine own self be true.
Remove thine mask Polonius.
Live thy truth, doth not be false to any man.
Micro Axe 340, Matrix 380, Matrix 355, Matrix 350, Exocet 200
ComfyBear Strings
G5 Montecs 125gr., SlickTrick 125 gr. Magnums
To thine own self be true.
Remove thine mask Polonius.
Live thy truth, doth not be false to any man.
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STEELWORKER
- Posts: 451
- Joined: Mon Aug 09, 2004 9:50 pm
- Location: southwestern pa
-
STEELWORKER
- Posts: 451
- Joined: Mon Aug 09, 2004 9:50 pm
- Location: southwestern pa
Re: Myspace
http://www.myspace.com/fnfal007 ?Ocyrus wrote:Go to myspace and look for Pannern.....I thought I was the only crossbowman there......
Where'd myspace come up in this thread? lol I'm a little lost...
you can shim any scopethe frenchman wrote:I think that the spacer on the scope that Pydpiper is talking about
and if i am not mistaking he is using a special scope
you can buy actual shims or just use aluminum from pop cans between the scope and rear scope ring (on the bottom half of the ring of course) to allow you to shoot at long ranges. adjust your scope so that it shoots low, then add a shim. keep clicking "down" and shimming until you are zero'd at 40 yards with only a few clicks left "down". this will allow you to keep your normal zero but still give you enough "up" clicks to shoot at long ranges. then when you are done simply put it back to your 40 yard zero
Re: Myspace
You sure are...back up a few bars and read Saxman said he was there, and he is in my neck of the woods!!!!!!!!TYE wrote:http://www.myspace.com/fnfal007 ?Ocyrus wrote:Go to myspace and look for Pannern.....I thought I was the only crossbowman there......
Where'd myspace come up in this thread? lol I'm a little lost...
Bowfish Florida