Fletching tip and a question

gnhuntin · Post by **gnhuntin** » Thu Nov 01, 2007 11:11 pm

When setting up my bitz fletching jig for a new size shaft I will put masking tape on the arrow shaft and fletch to the tape. That lets me see if the offset is what I want and that the fletching makes good contact on both sides. Just pull the tape off, no scraping glue and if good, go at it. Now for a question I have used blazer vanes for 2 years and they stick ok but I am a picky sob and I would like for them to be impossible to remove without tearing. I have used loctite super glue and bohning quantum xt. Both glues adhere well to a carbon shaft, I have to scrape it clean when refletching but there is little glue on a stripped off fletching. I have tried using the blazers without cleaning and also cleaned with acetone no difference. Anyone have different results with different glue or cleaners?

Farmer · Post by **Farmer** » Fri Nov 02, 2007 6:53 am

I have been using Goat Tuff and a loctite brand super glue with Blazers and they are anchored . I have 1 shaft that has been used for almost the entire 3d season ( 20 shoots min X 30 Targets ) .this shaft has blown thru at least 25 targets . The blazer vanes look like new . All I do is prep the shaft and add a minimum of adhesive.

Cossack · Post by **Cossack** » Fri Nov 02, 2007 10:29 am

I've tried LocTight, Gold Tip and Goat tough. The Loc tight gel holds well but is more difficult to spread evenly on the vane. It also clings on contact, which is good if you're in a hurry but gives no room for error. Gold Tip glue works well on inserts for me. OK on vanes. Would have to say the Goat Tough is best. Spreads evenly, give me several seconds before it sets, holds well and sets up for removal from jig in about 15 seconds. FWIT, I'm fletching 2" Blazers.
I've found that all the glues stick better to laquer than bare shafts. Started with clear laquer. Lately I've been cresting my bolts (about 7" from nock toward tip) with white laquer and a short overspray (about 2") of florescent Rust Oleum to match vanes. I overspray the laquered part furthest from nock. Makes my bolts much easier to see, yet only adds 1 grain at back for FOC consideration.

Keep the overspray away from the area you'll be fletching as glue won't hold there.

PS GOT to learn how to post pictures, it would be so much easier to understand.

Pydpiper · Post by **Pydpiper** » Fri Nov 02, 2007 10:39 am

Cossack wrote: PS GOT to learn how to post pictures, it would be so much easier to understand.

I agree, this sounds interesting and I would love to see it. I can give you a crash course on pics by PM if you would like.

hotburn · Post by **hotburn** » Fri Nov 02, 2007 1:58 pm

This was posted by Dan on another forum and shows how to do it. I hate scraping the glue from the shafts and the best part of cresting is you cut the vanes off when done with them and then just take some acetone and wipe off the paint and your shaft is clean, no endless scraping trying to get all the glue off. The paint I have dries fairly quickly so it only takes a few minuets to do this and it looks cool. If you like art the sky is the limit!

Here is the link....

http://www.texastrackers.com/Videos/Arrows.wmv

travis · Post by **travis** » Fri Nov 02, 2007 2:40 pm

hi just watched that clip on painting arrows and was just wondering if this can be done with carbon arrows as well as aluminium. just thinking about starting to build my own arrows and looking for any advise.

thanks great forum

Cossack · Post by **Cossack** » Fri Nov 02, 2007 2:59 pm

Yes, I'm doing carbons.

gnhuntin · Post by **gnhuntin** » Sat Nov 03, 2007 9:54 pm

Well I ordered some bohning platinum glue, thats what they recomend on their web site. Hopefully it will work better. I don't have any problem with the other glues siticing to the shaft, its the vanes that the glue doesn't seem to want to stick to. I have to scrape my carbon shafts when refletching.