O/T Any mechanics here?
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Just a guess but Im thinking a diagnostic will read either "catalitic converter running below threshold" or that other code along the same lines saying "left or right bank running below efficiency level" All this could read that way due to the rough idle and won't give you the info your after as to the cause. I haven't looked at that diagnostic in a while so my exact wording might be off but it relates to the same thing more or less and it will trigger the check engine light.
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I'm at school; so I can't do too much. but I am on a 2 hour break (10-12), and have a socket set, and screw drivers in the car.
I went out, and figured I'd take a look into the Air filter..... just to look....
It was FILTHY. dirt, grime, liquids, and solids. I was prying it out; and the end of the air pipe that connects directly to the engine popped off. I suppose it wasn't connected very well.
out poured a slurry of sludge, and sediment. I got as many cloths as I could manage, and scraped out all sorts of gunk from the lining of the pipe. I then started up the engine with the pipe removed, and the idle seemed much better.... but not fixed. I reconnected the dirty air filter, and within 2 minutes it started sputtering again. I will get a new air filter today. Before I left, I disconnected the battery. I will go back to reconnect + rev it in 30 mins.
New question; what effects could all the grime have on the engine? could some of it seeped in to the engine, leaving the residual sputtering? Is it OK to drive it the 65Km hike home with this new information? Could that grime block up an Oxygen sensor, leading to the engine light signal?
Thanks for all the help guys. It is VERY appreciated.
-Lawrence
I went out, and figured I'd take a look into the Air filter..... just to look....
It was FILTHY. dirt, grime, liquids, and solids. I was prying it out; and the end of the air pipe that connects directly to the engine popped off. I suppose it wasn't connected very well.
out poured a slurry of sludge, and sediment. I got as many cloths as I could manage, and scraped out all sorts of gunk from the lining of the pipe. I then started up the engine with the pipe removed, and the idle seemed much better.... but not fixed. I reconnected the dirty air filter, and within 2 minutes it started sputtering again. I will get a new air filter today. Before I left, I disconnected the battery. I will go back to reconnect + rev it in 30 mins.
New question; what effects could all the grime have on the engine? could some of it seeped in to the engine, leaving the residual sputtering? Is it OK to drive it the 65Km hike home with this new information? Could that grime block up an Oxygen sensor, leading to the engine light signal?
Thanks for all the help guys. It is VERY appreciated.
-Lawrence
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OK here is an update for you guys.
- Once I opened up the air filter housing, I found all sorts of gunk, so I cleaned it out as best I could.
- I also found it in the pipe leading from the air filter housing to the intake manifold.
- After cleaning it out, I drove it home, drive went well. the engine light hasn't turned back on since I disconnected the battery. The vibrations are still there, but not nearly as bad.
- On the way home, I stopped at a Canadian Tire, and bought a FRAM air filter.
- While installing it, I found LOTS more gunk inside the intake manifold. Again I cleaned it out the best I could, but decided right then to bring it into the shop for a proper cleaning.
- It will be cleaned out tomorrow. I found a place that will clean out the throttle body, and the intake manifold by Rinsing, Vacuuming, and De-greasing, all for $60!
- Now I jsut gotta cross my fingers that gunk didn't make it into the cylinders! it was pretty gritty, so if it has, it may have etched the cylinder walls, ruining a seal.
- Once I opened up the air filter housing, I found all sorts of gunk, so I cleaned it out as best I could.
- I also found it in the pipe leading from the air filter housing to the intake manifold.
- After cleaning it out, I drove it home, drive went well. the engine light hasn't turned back on since I disconnected the battery. The vibrations are still there, but not nearly as bad.
- On the way home, I stopped at a Canadian Tire, and bought a FRAM air filter.
- While installing it, I found LOTS more gunk inside the intake manifold. Again I cleaned it out the best I could, but decided right then to bring it into the shop for a proper cleaning.
- It will be cleaned out tomorrow. I found a place that will clean out the throttle body, and the intake manifold by Rinsing, Vacuuming, and De-greasing, all for $60!
- Now I jsut gotta cross my fingers that gunk didn't make it into the cylinders! it was pretty gritty, so if it has, it may have etched the cylinder walls, ruining a seal.
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That "gunk" is a sign that you might not be changing your oil often enough. I see it in c cars that neglect oil changes. A natural process in a combustion engine is blow by(combustion gases going past the rings and going into the crank case). As you've noticed when you look at your tail pipe when the engine is running there is much steam as part of the exhaust gases. The resultant water mixes with the oil and the heat drives some of that away. But if you don't change your oil enough and drive too much at low speeds and short trips the water will accumulate and you see what you see. This can affect some vehicles in different ways. In our cars it will not do what you describe. It is good to get rid of that stuff. I think your car uses a MAP sensor rather than an air flow meter as in an L-jetronic system so I kinda doubt that gunk will do what you say is happening. I forget what happens when carbon stops the throttle from closing on a GM but I don't think it will cause a miss.
If you had the memory of your engine management system read and cleared you will have some idea as to what is wrong. Faults like too rich, too lean, miss is cyl # whatever, cam sensor, map sensor etc may be easy to guess at. If the problem doesn't go away and the light comes on again have the memory read.
If you had the memory of your engine management system read and cleared you will have some idea as to what is wrong. Faults like too rich, too lean, miss is cyl # whatever, cam sensor, map sensor etc may be easy to guess at. If the problem doesn't go away and the light comes on again have the memory read.
Some people just like stepping on rakes
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New update.
I picked the car up from being cleaned. They Cleaned, Vacuumed, and De-greased the Intake Manifold + Throttle body. I then took it to Mr. Lube who did I multi point inspection. In addition to getting the oil change (+ Engine Flush) I also got the Fuel Filter changed. They said it looked a little rusty. After leaving the two places, the car behaves the exact same way; and on the way home, the engine light came back on. What a day.
I have a major exam tomorrow, so I will have to put the car issues aside until tomorrow night. I hope the car gets me to and from my exam alright. Tomorrow night, I plan to follow the steps posted above to check the fault code for the engine light. We will go from there.
Hey Hunter740; will AutoZone check the Throttle position control sensor for free? Is that the sensor in the Intake Manifold?
I picked the car up from being cleaned. They Cleaned, Vacuumed, and De-greased the Intake Manifold + Throttle body. I then took it to Mr. Lube who did I multi point inspection. In addition to getting the oil change (+ Engine Flush) I also got the Fuel Filter changed. They said it looked a little rusty. After leaving the two places, the car behaves the exact same way; and on the way home, the engine light came back on. What a day.
I have a major exam tomorrow, so I will have to put the car issues aside until tomorrow night. I hope the car gets me to and from my exam alright. Tomorrow night, I plan to follow the steps posted above to check the fault code for the engine light. We will go from there.
Hey Hunter740; will AutoZone check the Throttle position control sensor for free? Is that the sensor in the Intake Manifold?
Last edited by Rage_A_Holic on Wed Apr 02, 2008 4:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Jeeptag wrote:Rage, check out the link it is a way to get the trouble codes. Just MAKE SURE you jump the right terminals or you can fry your pcm.
http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/
Hey Jeeptag; it mentions that all models after 96 require a scanner. I have a 2003.
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I wouldn't spent another dime until I got it checked out and find out exactly what the problem is. I went through this a few years back with my F-150 and finally gave up and took it to the dealership for a diagnostic check. The problem turned out to be a worn hose going the the egr valve. The test was $65.00 and the repair was $35.00 (their minimum charge) I hope you find the problem soon. Remember what I said
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God Bless,
Ray
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God Bless,
Ray
God Bless !!!!!!!!!
Ray
Ray
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Thanks Again Ray.
I priced out some Code readers, but the cheapest one I found was $199. I called the mechanic back; he only wanted $40 to check it. So I dropped it off. 2 problems.
1) Gas Has Been Evaporating
2) Cylinders have been Misfiring
1) He asked if I have left the fuel cap off recently. I have not. he checked the cap; gasket looks worn; so I bought a new cap. We will see if that helps; if not he wants to do something with N2, and Smoke.
2) He figures its the spark plugs. he did some reading which I don't understand. said something like 43 is normal? Maybe a mechanic here can fill me in on what that means? He said mine were reading 52. Again, I have no clue what that means, but he says thats "really dirty" and most likely the problem. I'm getting him to put new plugs in as we speak. That's something I could handle on my own, but I gotta spend the night studying.
Cross your fingers for me. Thanks again EVERYONE!
I priced out some Code readers, but the cheapest one I found was $199. I called the mechanic back; he only wanted $40 to check it. So I dropped it off. 2 problems.
1) Gas Has Been Evaporating
2) Cylinders have been Misfiring
1) He asked if I have left the fuel cap off recently. I have not. he checked the cap; gasket looks worn; so I bought a new cap. We will see if that helps; if not he wants to do something with N2, and Smoke.
2) He figures its the spark plugs. he did some reading which I don't understand. said something like 43 is normal? Maybe a mechanic here can fill me in on what that means? He said mine were reading 52. Again, I have no clue what that means, but he says thats "really dirty" and most likely the problem. I'm getting him to put new plugs in as we speak. That's something I could handle on my own, but I gotta spend the night studying.
Cross your fingers for me. Thanks again EVERYONE!
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Due to the fact the check engine light is not flashing at you it is not an emergency to have repaired. What I mean by that is you can drive the car.
Now that does not mean drive the car with out getting it looked at. Like many have told you. Step one is to get the car fault code read. That will just give you a place to start looking. Then you can do the testing of sensor or look at vaccume lines. From what you have said I think there is a problem with a vacume line the car is now running to lean @ idle causeing it to miss or surge, when you leave the stop light and take off you are giving it more fuel the car is not running as lean.
I only work on my car and a few friends cars . I hate to work on cars. I do work on diesel fuel systems for a living.
You may try and ask dw I think he runs a body shop he might have some help for you.
Best of luck.
Now that does not mean drive the car with out getting it looked at. Like many have told you. Step one is to get the car fault code read. That will just give you a place to start looking. Then you can do the testing of sensor or look at vaccume lines. From what you have said I think there is a problem with a vacume line the car is now running to lean @ idle causeing it to miss or surge, when you leave the stop light and take off you are giving it more fuel the car is not running as lean.
I only work on my car and a few friends cars . I hate to work on cars. I do work on diesel fuel systems for a living.
You may try and ask dw I think he runs a body shop he might have some help for you.
Best of luck.