found a broadhead that works

hunter 740 · Post by **hunter 740** » Sun Sep 28, 2008 9:27 pm

You guys might remember these,I think they are or were made by bear they are big and ugly,green have a slit in the middle for what they used to call a bleeder blade.I'm not using the bleeder blade because when I was a kid we didn't use them.They are easy to sharpen and are very strong.I also see alot of you are using montec 5s,but they won't shoot close to my target heads.I'm shooting 2216 shafts and was wondering if switching to 2219 would make a differance since I have some left over from my old vert bow.

bob1961 · Post by **bob1961** » Sun Sep 28, 2008 9:45 pm

ahh, good ol bear razor heads....used them since 1982 when i started bowhunting and were still on my 2117's i just converted to 20" xbow arrows....good BH's i even have a sharping stone with 2 thin stones at the proper angle for sharping them....i only used them as 2 blades without the bleeder blades.........bob

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hunter 740 · Post by **hunter 740** » Sun Sep 28, 2008 9:50 pm

bob have you killed any deer out of your xbow with them

saxman · Post by **saxman** » Sun Sep 28, 2008 9:57 pm

Sounds like a zwicky

hunter 740 · Post by **hunter 740** » Sun Sep 28, 2008 10:01 pm

they look like zwicky's I had them in my bow box there probably 25 yrs old.

Limbs and Sticks · Post by **Limbs and Sticks** » Sun Sep 28, 2008 10:04 pm

I've killed them with the bear and snuffer, used a tenpoint on a few and parker on a couple more just got my vortex no problem. These two bh I would guess have killed more game than most. Its hard to improve something that has proved its self over and over Iwon't use anything else

Wes

sumner4991 · Post by **sumner4991** » Sun Sep 28, 2008 10:06 pm

I'll probably catch some slack on this, but, we have reached the speed point with these bows(both xbow and vert) that the broadheads need to be machine sharpened. Sharpening by hand will likely leave an uneven edge and thus your broadhead will not fly consistant. It's all about the speed and wind sheer. It just doesn't take much to throw off a broadhead at higher speeds. At a short distance, up to 20 yards, it's probably OK . . .past that and its a hit or miss.

I've had broadheads that "look" perfect and they would not fly, change the blades and it was perfect. On these fast moving bows, the blades need to be exact. Just can't get exact by hand. Of course, this isn't as much an issue with mechanicals since the blades are folded.

I'm replacing blades . . .no need to take a chance. In my opinion.

bob1961 · Post by **bob1961** » Sun Sep 28, 2008 10:48 pm

vert bow kills only....just got my xbow and yet to stick a deer wit it..........bob

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raydaughety · Post by **raydaughety** » Sun Sep 28, 2008 11:00 pm

bob1961 wrote:ahh, good ol bear razor heads....used them since 1982 when i started bowhunting and were still on my 2117's i just converted to 20" xbow arrows....good BH's i even have a sharping stone with 2 thin stones at the proper angle for sharping them....i only used them as 2 blades without the bleeder blades.........bob

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Bob, I started out the same way. I bought a Bear Whitetail II, a dozen 2117 full length arrows and some bear razorbacks ( 145 grain ). My 1st archery kill was a 6 point buck in 1984 with that set up, that broadhead was devastating on a deer. Good ole days

mikej · Post by **mikej** » Mon Sep 29, 2008 8:08 am

are they still available?

bob1961 · Post by **bob1961** » Mon Sep 29, 2008 9:06 am

mikej wrote:are they still available?

yup and there redesigned, so i don't know if there the same as the ones i had been using since i bought mine 10 years ago...........bob

http://www.openseasongear.com/SearchRes ... earch.y=13

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wabi · Post by **wabi** » Mon Sep 29, 2008 9:22 am

Some of those old heads were used to take all kinds of game around the world. In most cases it wasn't a matter of just glue the head on your wooden arrow and go hunting. I've spent hours tuning arrows and broadheads in the distant past. Yes, they will work! And sometimes you hit the perfect combination of broadhead, shaft taper (or tapered adapter for screw-in points) and alignment that works fine first try.
They were intended to be re-sharpened in the field and were much softer (not saying that's bad) steel than most of today's selection.
But look at the speeds those old longbows and recurves were producing! Back when I started the emphasis was more toward arrow weight (for KE) for penetration. 10 grains of arrow weight for pound of draw weight was a good starting point as I recall. I never even thought of checking velocity back then. If I could take a 50# bow with a 500+ gr cedar arrow and a good sharp broadhead and hit the deer where I wanted to - it would be the result I was looking for (dead deer). I would guess a lot of those arrows were travelling at well under 200 fps, probably closer to 170 fps from a "fast" bow.

If you can get them to fly accurately from your crossbow there's no reason to think the end result will be any different - dead deer! But be sure to test each arrow/broadhead combination for accuracy, then carefully re-sharpen them before hunting with them! Don't assume because one flys great that they all will!!!!!!!!!

I find it a lot easier today to just look for a broadhead that will give great accuracy from my crossbow without all that tuning and testing. The replacement blade heads (in my opinion) are called replacement blade heads because they are designed to have new blades installed after shooting them (either in foam or game). I am currently testing some Wac'em brand 4 blade heads a buddy gave me. So far they look very good. I take one new head and shoot it at the target. If it flies true for several shots I take those dulled blades out and put them in another head, then test it. When I'm done, if they pass the accuracy test, I put brand new blades in each head before I hunt with them! If they pass the final test (kill game effectively) I may buy more, but each new one will first get a set of those used dulled blades installed and must pass the accuracy test on foam before I install new blades and hunt with them!
BTW - anyone looking at the "Wac-em" brand heads, they do not fit on 22 series inserts well! They are apparently designed for small diameter carbon shafts and the blades hit the insert and do not lock solidly in the head with 22 series inserts. I had to chuck each arrow in my lathe (a drill would work with care) and taper the end slightly for good clearance. Not a big chore, but necessary for good solid lockup between the blades & head.

Limbs and Sticks · Post by **Limbs and Sticks** » Mon Sep 29, 2008 12:38 pm

Wabi your right about tuneing I think I got some that never did fly right,Magnus makes both of these snuffer,bear right setup flys like a dart leading cutting edge works for me.I've got one snuffer that Ive retired, killed 4 with it put on the stone after each kill ready to again this is just me old school

WES

flbuckmaster · Post by **flbuckmaster** » Mon Sep 29, 2008 7:15 pm

bob1961 wrote:
mikej wrote:are they still available?
yup and there redesigned, so i don't know if there the same as the ones i had been using since i bought mine 10 years ago...........bob

http://www.openseasongear.com/SearchRes ... earch.y=13

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those dont look like the old bear broadheads I used to hunt with. I still was shooting bear bh's long after the new "fancy" bh's started hitting the market 20 years ago. I pulled my old martin compound out and it still is loaded with bear bh's.

jay

hunter 740 · Post by **hunter 740** » Mon Sep 29, 2008 9:36 pm

I shot this head tonight at 20,30,and40 yards and was very pleased.The 40 yard shot was about a half inch low but dead center.I was shooting at a very small target so the half inch could have been me.