aluminum vs carbon arrows
Moderator: Excalibur Marketing Dude
aluminum vs carbon arrows
Can anyone explain the pros and cons for each or is it pretty much personal preference. I have had a carbon arrow shatter on an extremely cold day.
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How long ago was this shattering experience. From what I've been lead to believe the modern carbon arrows are much better than they were years ago. Some time this fall, someone shot a carbon xbow arrow into an oak log at the pit we use as our range. That arrow was in there solid and deep and nothing was going to get it out.
I'm finally going to convert to carbon for next year and spend this winter "rolling my own.". I'm looking forward to many relaxing hours of fletching and experimenting.
I'm finally going to convert to carbon for next year and spend this winter "rolling my own.". I'm looking forward to many relaxing hours of fletching and experimenting.
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I'd just stop going out on days that are cold enough to shatter carbon.
I target shoot a lot and it's just easier to grab a carbon and jerk it out of the target without fear of bending the thing. I've never had one break without warrant.
I target shoot a lot and it's just easier to grab a carbon and jerk it out of the target without fear of bending the thing. I've never had one break without warrant.
I'd rather wear out than rust out.
Perception trumps intention.
2006 Exomax w/Agingcrossbower Custom Stock
20" Easton Powerbolts w/125gr Trophy Ridge Stricknines & 2"Blazers
Boo Custom Strings
2006 Vixen
Perception trumps intention.
2006 Exomax w/Agingcrossbower Custom Stock
20" Easton Powerbolts w/125gr Trophy Ridge Stricknines & 2"Blazers
Boo Custom Strings
2006 Vixen
I tried carbon a few years ago and ended up going back to aluminum. I had one carbon (Gold Tip) break in my hip quiver when I was walking in to my stand (no idea haw or where it broke, but when I took the quiver off my belt the fletch end was missing) and one break on a shot through a deer. It probably broke after it passed through, but the though of carbon fibers in the meat didn't, and still dosen't, appeal to me.
The biggest problem with aluminums is bending them when pulling them from a target. A careful pull and a little help fron a "Dan Miller puller" on foam targets reduces losses from bending to a minimum. In the past 2 years Shooting 2215 shafts I've lost one arrow that bent on a shot through a deer, and one that was bent when it hit a glancing blow on a hard object.
I use point inserts on both ends of my arrows, and I can remove the point and look through the shaft to check straightness. If you look toward good light the shadows/reflections inside will look like a series of rings (like a bullseye target). A slight bend is obvious this way.
The biggest problem with aluminums is bending them when pulling them from a target. A careful pull and a little help fron a "Dan Miller puller" on foam targets reduces losses from bending to a minimum. In the past 2 years Shooting 2215 shafts I've lost one arrow that bent on a shot through a deer, and one that was bent when it hit a glancing blow on a hard object.
I use point inserts on both ends of my arrows, and I can remove the point and look through the shaft to check straightness. If you look toward good light the shadows/reflections inside will look like a series of rings (like a bullseye target). A slight bend is obvious this way.
wabi
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carbon only here... carbon will break before bending. I got sick of bending aluminum shafts time after time so I switched to carbon. I see in old posts everyone is afraid of carbon fibers in the meat. I personally wouldnt use any meat that close to the impact wound anyway no matter what was used.
aluminum is nice, but I just hate bent arrows. Ive used carbon now for years with no issues at all.
aluminum is nice, but I just hate bent arrows. Ive used carbon now for years with no issues at all.
ALUMINUM I haven't been able to find one redeeming quality in carbon other than they are lighter not a plus and a little faster a plus get you an Equinox and you don't have to worry about fast aluminum is straighter way easier to work on inserts are available or were till the craze hit, the only thing I can figure is carbon must be way cheaper to make than aluminum because they really push the stuff about the only real advantage carbon has is the smaller diameter but with a crossbow you have to use the larger dia. so there goes that
Assuming you treat the shaft fairly the only real disadvantage in using aluminum is that they are noisy. Minor advantages to carbon is that you can achieve a higher FOC, adhesives stick to carbons easier and removing inserts is dicey. I never use my arrows more than once either and I don't trust carbons after a hard impact seeing that any carbon that connected with solid bone shattered for me.
Shoot the both and decide for yourself. I still can't make up my mind which one I like better.
Shoot the both and decide for yourself. I still can't make up my mind which one I like better.
Some people just like stepping on rakes
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From my experience in vertical bow shooting I would think an aluminum 2213 would be rather delicate and easily damaged while shooting it from a powerful crossbow.
On the other hand I would think a 2219 shot from a crossbow would be quite durable.
The thing that put me off the carbon shafts is you have to use that cryano crazy glue stuff to glue on the vanes or feathers.
All the Excalibur made C2 FireBolts I have, look real messy with that hard excess cryano glue smeared all over the shaft between the vanes.
When I made my own wood arrows or aluminum I did a much neater job of applying the glue. Any excess could be trimmed off with a razor blade and a little acetone on a rag or Q-Tip.
I think acetone applied on a carbon would ruin it.
I used to get the odd dent in 2213's and did bend a few in my vertical bow shooting but I straighten them with my Arizona Archery straightener that I've owned for 20 years.
The xx16 & xx18 sizes I shoot now in my vertical bows are much more durable.
On the other hand I would think a 2219 shot from a crossbow would be quite durable.
The thing that put me off the carbon shafts is you have to use that cryano crazy glue stuff to glue on the vanes or feathers.
All the Excalibur made C2 FireBolts I have, look real messy with that hard excess cryano glue smeared all over the shaft between the vanes.
When I made my own wood arrows or aluminum I did a much neater job of applying the glue. Any excess could be trimmed off with a razor blade and a little acetone on a rag or Q-Tip.
I think acetone applied on a carbon would ruin it.
I used to get the odd dent in 2213's and did bend a few in my vertical bow shooting but I straighten them with my Arizona Archery straightener that I've owned for 20 years.
The xx16 & xx18 sizes I shoot now in my vertical bows are much more durable.
08 Equinox, #1989 string, FireBolts with NAP QuikSpin ST Speed hunter vanes, 150gr. Boltcutter BH's, Lumi-Zone scope.