This is my first post but have been lurking in the background for several years. I traded in my compound for the Vixen back then because of health issues and only used it for thinning out the gopher population. I want to get it set up for Whitetails as we have a 3 deer limit around our city (Prince Albert, Sask) and possibly Elk. The bow has a factory fff string set at about 1 1/8". I have been using firebolts and 150 grain boltcutters/practice points. For gophers I use 125 grain Zwickey judo points.
The problem that I am having is the arrow is flying to the target sideways. It does it with 150gr slightly but really bad with 100gr. My compound/traditional self says the shaft is to stiff or FOC is off or both. I am using a cocking rope and the black plastic shims are trimmed back. Has anyone else had this problem? I searched the forum but found little help. A shorter arrow would be nice as it is a pain to stalk with the broadhead snagging in the brush all the time. Any suggestions? And right off, NO, I don't want to give up on the bow . I've also had the problem of loose inserts etc. that seem to plague the firebolts.
Check FOC and adjust maybe blazer vanes will help take some weight off the back end.
could also put brass inserts in the front to increase your forward weight.
I agree with Dereck. If you would happen to be concerned about the brass inserts alone increasing your total arrow weight too much, you could install them plus go with a lighter 85 gr broadhead, install lightweight feathers or Blazer vanes, and shorten your arrows.
I'm assuming that your arrows are 20" long. I think you could possibly go as short as 18" if using broadheads with less than 1.25" cutting diameter.
2213 aluminum shafts always worked well for me from the Vixen I had. I have used them as short as 16", but 18" was what I made my arrows. I always used 100 grain points (field points and broadheads) and had no accuracy problems. Over the years I used 5" feathers, 4" feathers. 4" vanes, and 2" "Blazer" vanes with 4º offset and also 8º helical on a few for fixed blade broadheads. Good accuracy with all, but the 8º helical was required to get "Slick Trick" broadheads to group with field points.
The down-side to 2213s is that they will bend easily if you aren't extremely careful (gentle) when removing them from a target. A "Dan Miller" arrow puller is a good accessory for them.
Is there an accuracy issue? Or just an flight issue?
You can't really afford to add weight and I doubt it's an FOC issue. I do not believe it's a shaft issue either.
Could it be your butt end mount to your shoulder is slightly off center giving you a side kick recoil? That's a long stretch, but, had to throw it in there.
I'll bet it's the broadheads or the fletching. Start by shooting only one arrow, then another. See if all of them are floating wrong or just one or two.
I'd rather wear out than rust out.
Perception trumps intention.
I appreciate the suggestions very much. I had two 2315 arrows that I cut down to 16", then I glued in a 125gr target point behind the insert giving it a 20.3% FOC. One arrow has 3" duravanes on a slight helical, the other has 5" feathers on helical, both with 100gr tips. I tried them out last night and they seemed to fly great. I say seemed to because we had a really high gusting wind. The duravane arrow was fairly close to impact with the firebolt, the feathers seemed to be about 6" inches low out to aprox. 40 yards in comparison. The bow is quieter with the aluminum arrows due to their extra weight I would guess. Hope to get a calmer day and shoot from a bench rather than a mono pod.
The firebolt has the factory fletching and shoots best with the 150gr target tips/boltcutters, getting more sideways as you drop the tip weight. Not only do you see it going over sideways they impact the target that way. The accuracy is okay, that is primarily why I have not been to concerned about it for shooting small game but hoped to tune it better for big game. Broadheads do make a difference, 100gr four blade muzzy 3" group at 20yds, the worst is when I put on a 150gr Magnus snuffer, you can't tell from shot to shot with the same arrow as to where it is going to end up down range.
The suggested lightest arrow is 325gr for the Vixen. How do they achieve that? Did they shorten a firebolt and use a light target tip? The firebolts I have weigh in at 273gr on my scale.I will also chrony the difference between the arrows as well. Speed is nice as I cant judge distance very well due to bad left eye but I will sacrifice speed for consistency.
I am not an arrow expert or tend to be one but...... I setup my bow with field points. Then I use one broadhead just to set it up to same point of impact as my field points. You grouping broadheads on targets and they are expensive. I went through 4 different kinds of broadheads till I found ones that fly and hit the same as my field points so I no longer even practise with broadheads. Maybe one shot before hunting season with the head I already used.
I had a vixen and the 2216's flew gr8 out of it, 100 grain broadheads. Got some crazyfarmer arrows with brass inserts and they flew well also. Would try a bench and just consentrate on field points first. !6 inch arrow, man that seems pretty short to me. Not saying it can't be done but don't think that is needed. Good Luck and happy shooting.
16" is too short if'en yer trying to get hunting set-up & accuracy. I have several 18" GT II & i don't like the way they shoot fer accuracy. Personally 19" is as short as i would cut my arrows! Why yer arrows are going sideways either the vanes are hitting the arrow channel sides or the limb plastic is catching them. Another thing is the tiller is way bad on one of yer limbs. Its gotten weak on one side, that will let arrows fly sideways!
Saskquach wrote:The firebolt has the factory fletching and shoots best with the 150gr target tips/boltcutters, getting more sideways as you drop the tip weight.
You probably just need more off-set in the vanes. Are those fletchings straight?
If you really want field tip accuracy with a broadhead(tight groups), then you will need to be willing to hunt with a mechanical broadhead. The fixed blades require at least 4 degrees off-set in the vanes. Don't really need the longer vanes, but, straight just does not work . . .I tried and tried. At faster speeds, a small imperfection in a blade will show up in your groups too. Some folks believe adding weight to the front end improves accuracy due to a better FOC. . .it is my belief that it does improve accuracy, but, only because it slows the arrow down and hides some imperfection in the broadhead and/or arrow. The faster you go, the more perfect your arrow/broadhead combo must become.
Keep shooting.
I'd rather wear out than rust out.
Perception trumps intention.
. I've also had the problem of loose inserts etc. that seem to plague the firebolts. 
