I think Gremlins made my Axiom !

[vixenmaster]

I think the 8/32 screws are 5/16" in length but not positive. They can't go in to fer because they will hit into trigger assembly. I found that quality Hex wrenches are better than junk you buy at yer local china hardware toting stores

[theoldarcher]

Thank you vixenmaster for your reply. I am fixing to order me some torx screws from EBay.

[OkXbowHunter]

I know this is a somewhat old post, but I ran across nearly the same problem that my buddy had.

I traded him a fully rigged Vortex for a Ruger 22-250 Varmint Rifle with Nikon Scope and a $100 to boot. Even with all that, I still think he got the better part of the deal!

Anyhow, he called up a few days later complaining that this bow was shooting all over the place. I told him that I was grouping 2" out to 40 yards with the arrows that came with it. I felt like maybe he dropped it or something but he assured me he hadn't. Told him I'd look at it when I got down there.

So the next time we went out shooting, He shot the Vortex and hit about 6 inches low and to the right. I took it from him, cocked it and shot and drilled the bullseye. I told him that maybe it was a bad arrow. I tried it again, and put both arrows hit within an inch of one another in the center.

I then watched him cock the bow to shoot it. He put the hooks outside of the bumpers of the STS system. I said "WHOA". That's not how you cock it. I showed him the right way, telling him to keep the hooks against the rail and pull straight back.

He then started putting the arrows in the bullseye out to 40 yards. It was at that moment that a magical transformation happened. One from a die hard compound user to a Xcal hunter!

Make sure you're drawing the bow properly. It makes a huge difference!

[wabi]

I've never had one come loose, but I done them very tight.
I stripped one a while back trying to undo a damaged weaver rail though. I was dead lucky that when I drilled it out I got it dead center, and managed to ezyout the screw afterwards.
I would prefer a screw with a deeper hex or torx, but found them hard to find around here in 8/32, and ended up getting more of the same on ebay.
What I do recommend is getting a quality better fitting allen key to do them tight without rounding the hex off.

i agree ..Boo told me this trick and it works ..you need a 1/4" socket type allen that fits snug..you can get a good solid downward push with that ratchet..I found that some
of those bits fit better than others so you have to try a few..
i rounded out a couple of those screws ..used a dremel to make a flat slot then a good flat screwdriver to remove them ..i think that little bit of heat from the dremel helped too..

A trick I have used on a stripped hex head is to use a torx bit to remove it. I'm not 100% sure, but I believe it's the #15 torx for the screws in question (suffering from CRS as I get older). The bit is a very tight fit and it takes a few taps with a light hammer to seat it in the hex recess in the screw. Seems like the torx bits are a bit harder than a lot of the hex bits and they don't round off as easily. Once you get it fully seated in the hex recess it will usually remove the screw.

[BrunoB]

M'y scope was also coming loose before I used blue loctite.