steve rodo wrote:I been lucky ,my BH's have been trued to my arrow's.For some reason or another.I didn't tune them to my bow ,I went from FP's to BH's back to back with no adjustment's.
My BH's do drop 1/2'' at 50 yard's .but windage is perfect.
Couldn't ask for much better ,Got lucky .I shot BH's at 60 yard's and it dropped 1.5'' .still perfect windage.
Im gonna leave them alone and hunt .
well i'm bout to toss a monkey wrench into the works now ....I have a 2008 exocet 200 shooting 2117 XX75 camo hunters with straight fletching on them with string at the farther from riser brace mark....slick trick 125gr mag BH's with 110gr brass insert with two screw in 25gr weights adding 50gr to my insert....
brass insert 160gr
slick trick 125gr
550gr total weight
289FPS
285gr at the front of my arrows with a total arrow weight of 550gr....my arrow set up is great out to 50 yards with slick tricks and hit where my target tips are....so where I got away without any spin put on my arrows is beyond me....I will be getting a dozen arrows this year with an EZ fletch, but i'm not sure with arms to get it in....was thinking on a 2 to 4 degree right offset and removing those two 25gr weights from insert to bring weight to 500gr even with a lil bit of spin....plus I do spin my arrows going into my quiver for hunting as stated above ....
exocet 200. STS dampers.
boo string and trigger work.
munch mount quiver mount.
125 gr slick trick magums.
2" blazers on 2117 XX75 w/ brass inserts.
DaveShooter
I have found that lining up a 3 blade head with the fletching works most of the time. But with a 2 or 4 blade head you can't do that, and I have found that you don't need to. I think it has something to do with the way the air flows over the BH and the fletching being different, that it helps the fletchings to stabilize. Spine also has a lot to do with it. You want your arrows to all be sitting on the rail with the spine in the same place. Many on here set them up so the stiffest part of the arrow is up from the rail. Try shooting your arrows with different vanes in the channel. You might see a difference in POI.
Keith
Stand by the roads and look, and ask for the ancient paths; where the good way is,
and walk in it and find rest for your souls. - Jer 6:16
Fixed broadheads require some spin from your fletchings . . .I haven't really seen or heard of any difference in left or right . . .just can't do straight unless you are shooting indoors or on a windless day.
I fooled around with lining up vanes with blades and I just didn't get any satisfaction.
Spine . . .I just think these arrows are so short and the crossbow arrows are so thick/strong . . .you aren't going to get a lot of benefit there either. Not with a crossbow.
There is only two things to worry a lot about with a crossbow. The tiller and the build of the arrow. You focus your attention to those two areas and you should be fine.
If you build your own arrow, then make sure they are all exactly the same(weigh them). Give the vanes some offset . . .the shorter the vanes, the more offset needed. Spin the crap out of them, make sure there is no wobble anywhere . . .pay close attention to the tip.
Make sure you are using a quality broadhead . . .with a fixed blade, at these speeds, a slight bend in a blade will throw you off target, a lot.
I'd rather wear out than rust out.
Perception trumps intention.
Well I did it today haven't tried 'em yet bought a 3 pack of them there Swhacker 100 grain Bh's. I know I could site my scope in with a Bh that groups good but I don't want to mess with change or resighting back in for field points.
I do have all the current 3 and 4 bladed heads shooting so far so good right into the heart area on my deer target. Heck so many great choices in bh's these days to choose from. Those G5 Montec's I love the solid head and resharpen ability may try some of those too as well. Thanks all for any thoughts or help. I'm open to all ideas or info on the matter or issue
bob1961 wrote:well i'm bout to toss a monkey wrench into the works now ....I have a 2008 exocet 200 shooting 2117 XX75 camo hunters with straight fletching on them with string at the farther from riser brace mark....slick trick 125gr mag BH's with 110gr brass insert with two screw in 25gr weights adding 50gr to my insert....
brass insert 160gr
slick trick 125gr
550gr total weight
289FPS
285gr at the front of my arrows with a total arrow weight of 550gr....my arrow set up is great out to 50 yards with slick tricks and hit where my target tips are....so where I got away without any spin put on my arrows is beyond me....I will be getting a dozen arrows this year with an EZ fletch, but i'm not sure with arms to get it in....was thinking on a 2 to 4 degree right offset and removing those two 25gr weights from insert to bring weight to 500gr even with a lil bit of spin....plus I do spin my arrows going into my quiver for hunting as stated above ....
I think like Bill T you might be on to something with a heavier front area of the arrow in flight. I think that is why Bill and Excal came out with that heavy a head with matched to the 150 grain weight of the target or field points. Heck just a thought.
I finally went out tis-morning and and tried out the 100 grain Swacker's
I tell you what they are truly awesome Bh's. 1-st two shots with a brandnew Easton XX75 mag 2219 shaft right in the Deer's heart boiler maker @20 yds. I just wrapped a piece of black electric tape around closed head to keep them from opening on impact like Swhacker says to do on their web-site. To be honest that head flew better than my field point did. I think I'm in love with Swhacker 100 grain Bh's
sumner4991 wrote:I see the spinner question has been answered.
I fooled around with lining up vanes with blades and I just didn't get any satisfaction.
Spine . . .I just think these arrows are so short and the crossbow arrows are so thick/strong . . .you aren't going to get a lot of benefit there either. Not with a crossbow.
There is only two things to worry a lot about with a crossbow. The tiller and the build of the arrow. You focus your attention to those two areas and you should be fine.
If you build your own arrow, then make sure they are all exactly the same(weigh them). Give the vanes some offset . . .the shorter the vanes, the more offset needed. Spin the crap out of them, make sure there is no wobble anywhere . . .pay close attention to the tip.
Make sure you are using a quality broadhead . . .with a fixed blade, at these speeds, a slight bend in a blade will throw you off target, a lot.
I just figure the more you can make consistent from arrow to arrow, the better. If you make a simple spine finder, you will find that not all arrows are built the same - and even the carbons have differences between them. And I have made good flyers out of some bad flyers by doing this.
I see how tiller could be a problem, but that does not explain how you can get really good flight out of arrows that used to not fly so well by doing the things already mentioned above to the arrows and nothing to the bow. If the tiller is off, I would except about any arrow to not fly so well.
Keith
Stand by the roads and look, and ask for the ancient paths; where the good way is,
and walk in it and find rest for your souls. - Jer 6:16
Talked with Danny Miller tis morning after shooting the 100 grain Swhackers.
cause he was the guy and thank goodness he did got me to try them. He also says you can take any Bh and vane or feather and set them up to fly right in which I do up most agree. Now I know it also is gonna depend if the arrow is true, tiller of the bow,insert weight, and arrow being square in which that Cause or case whether some will agree with me or not. I did get the 4 blade 150 grain Muzzy's to fly also true by the way they were positioned with the vanes
on my new XX75 2219 mag arrows. Maybe it is the way I held my mouth just right Anyway it sure has been fun playing with all these Bh and arrow combinations and still I'm not done yet
nchunterkw wrote:
I just figure the more you can make consistent from arrow to arrow, the better. If you make a simple spine finder, you will find that not all arrows are built the same - and even the carbons have differences between them. And I have made good flyers out of some bad flyers by doing this.
I see how tiller could be a problem, but that does not explain how you can get really good flight out of arrows that used to not fly so well by doing the things already mentioned above to the arrows and nothing to the bow. If the tiller is off, I would except about any arrow to not fly so well.
I only shoot carbons, and they seem awefully stiff to me. As short as they are, I just don't see much help from finding the spine.
If an arrow has a flying problem and you fix it by placing a certain vane down, then it could have been a balance issue(too much glue on one side).
But, if you are have a program you put your arrows through and you are confident in those arrows, then they will fly better.
If it works for you, then stick with it. Confidence is important.
I'd rather wear out than rust out.
Perception trumps intention.
....
