String touching REDS dampeners

[884savage]

I saw on here that my string should not be touching the REDS while relaxed. Well, it is. I bought the bow last week, and that's how it came out of the box. 2 questions. What does that hurt, and what's the fix? Thanks.

[Boo]

I saw on here that my string should not be touching the REDS while relaxed. Well, it is. I bought the bow last week, and that's how it came out of the box. 2 questions. What does that hurt, and what's the fix? Thanks.

You need to buy a stringing aid. http://www.excaliburcrossbow.com/catalo ... inging_aid
The stringing aid will allow you to adjust the position of the string away from the reds. This is commonly called the brace height.
You want to have the gap between the rubber bumpers and the string to be about 1/4".
Remove the rubber bumper and see if the shaft that holds the rubber is almost a complete ball. If it is remove the shaft by undoing the set screw on the underside of the riser and grind off about 1/3rd to 1/2 of the ball. If you don't the rubber will be cut through in 50 to 100 shots.
Looking at the end of the string you want to twist the string counter clockwise to shorten the string which will raise the string/brace height.

[colty31]

my new string is currently resting on my S5 bumpers, do I just twist the string to raise it off of them? do I need to twist each side equally?

[galamb]

Yes, you need to twist the string to take it off the S5's

I only twist one side but will alternate sides "the next time".

It takes a while for a string to "settle down", but it does keep stretching throughout it's whole life, it's just really noticeable when it's new.

I replaced a string about 3 months ago and it has been "adjusted" five times since I installed it. If I go and check it right now it's (probably) up snug against the S5's right now.

I will give it a couple more twists, take it out and shoot a dozen or so bolts and then hang her up again.

If I have to change a string I try to get it done 6 months before hunting season, and check it every couple of weeks to see if it needs "tweaking". The last thing you want is a brand new string stretching on you on opening day when monster buck steps out at 35 yards and your point of aim is down the toilet because of a slack string.

[xcaliber]

Watch the instructional videos in the column to the left here!

[paulaboutform]

my new string is currently resting on my S5 bumpers, do I just twist the string to raise it off of them? do I need to twist each side equally?

As Boo said, yes, you just need to add twists to shorten your string and increase your brace height. Helpful hint; instead of setting your brace height (gap between bumpers and string) at 1/4" where you want to end , set it to 3/8" or 7/16". This will put more preload on the string and help settle it in more quickly. This was a very helpful hint also from Boo. Do not shoot the bow with the string on the bumpers, it will eat your bumpers and can damage your limbs.

Paul

[BrotherRon]

Some good info here
I also leave my cocking aid on when not in use =
it prevents the string from damaging the bumpers when it is in the case or hanging on the wall for and extended period of time.

[colty31]

my new string is currently resting on my S5 bumpers, do I just twist the string to raise it off of them? do I need to twist each side equally?

As Boo said, yes, you just need to add twists to shorten your string and increase your brace height. Helpful hint; instead of setting your brace height (gap between bumpers and string) at 1/4" where you want to end , set it to 3/8" or 7/16". This will put more preload on the string and help settle it in more quickly. This was a very helpful hint also from Boo. Do not shoot the bow with the string on the bumpers, it will eat your bumpers and can damage your limbs.

Paul

It seem to me that when I go to twisting the string I will be "guessing" as to how much it will raise the string up (brace height). I will then have to release the stringing aid and check where the string is and maybe have to repeat the process. Is that the easiest way to do this? I just want to make sure I'm not missing a step that would make this easier.

[Normous]

It seem to me that when I go to twisting the string I will be "guessing" as to how much it will raise the string up (brace height). I will then have to release the stringing aid and check where the string is and maybe have to repeat the process. Is that the easiest way to do this? I just want to make sure I'm not missing a step that would make this easier.

You are correct, It may take a couple tries to get the brace right correct and the process becomes quick and automatic once you have done this a few times.

[robertyb]

And it makes no difference at all in which side you twist from on a Recurve bow. Just remember to twist counter clockwise tighten the string.

[Seafermiles]

1/4" is the maximum according to Excalibur. They say 1/8" to 1/4". The instructions that came with my REDS called for a credit card thickness clearance.
I keep mine at no more than 1/8". M330. I feel the REDS will be more effective at that point. I will replace the bumpers when needed. JMO

[Seafermiles]

And it makes no difference at all in which side you twist from on a Recurve bow. Just remember to twist counter clockwise tighten the string.

I twist both sides equally if more that 2 twists. You are twisting toward the serving. The serving is capturing the twist rate and holding it not letting the whole string twist equally. JMO
When I first did this twisting just from one side I could see that there were more twists on one side of the center serving than on the other.

[paulaboutform]

And it makes no difference at all in which side you twist from on a Recurve bow. Just remember to twist counter clockwise tighten the string.

I twist both sides equally if more that 2 twists. You are twisting toward the serving. The serving is capturing the twist rate and holding it not letting the whole string twist equally. JMO
When I first did this twisting just from one side I could see that there were more twists on one side of the center serving than on the other.

I'm sorry but I can't say I agree. No disrespect intended. When you twist one end, you are twisting the entire string. Here's my thinking, suppose you remove one loop from the limb and twist the string from the center serving. You're now twisting it from the center of the string. Is that creating equal twists? Yes. Now do the same procedure but hold the center serving and the free loop and twist both together. Does that create equal twists? Yes. This has just been my experience but if you feel it's better to add a step and twist both sides that certainly won't hurt anything and I say go for it.

Paul

[BrotherRon]

I have been twisting mine from the right side since I got my Matrix last fall and both sides look the same. The center serving will rotate with the rest of the string and if there should happen to be any difference it will equal out the first time you cock and shoot it. Also, always do full turns and not half turns. after about every 100 shots or so twist both ends 1/2 turn so that the serving will wear evenly

[Seafermiles]

The more I thought about it the more I think I was wrong. However under the serving it will take a while for the twist to work its way thru. Probably why I had to keep re-twisting the new string.