I have started shooting at distances like 60 and 70 meters (66 and 77 yards) with my Axiom. I am using Gold tip 20" laser II with brass and 100 (am going to test with a 85GR point) grain tip with Mini Blazers. I shoot offhand and can get groups at these distances at around less than 12 inches (the whole spread of the group).
I don't really have access to shooting off of a bench to further test the differences between the arrows. Will my accuracy really improve if i spine test these and weigh them?
Oh and before you recommend BEE's I know they will be much better, they are just hard to get and a bit heavy for my liking.
Thank you
Do you really need to spine test and weigh arrows for good..
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Do you really need to spine test and weigh arrows for good..
Excalibur Axiom
Leupold VX1 2-7 33mm
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Leupold VX1 2-7 33mm
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Re: Do you really need to spine test and weigh arrows for go
Don't know anything about your core question, but I will recommend a simple folding table and camp chair for a bench. That's what I use to shoot from. Then use the best thing that you've got for a rest. I am now using sandbags. A rifle rest would work but I've used things such as my kids Styrofoam chair, pillows, my crossbow soft case placed on my archery box. You get the point. Good luck to you.
Matrix Grizzly
Hawke XB30 Pro
8ptbuk Custom Flemish String
Spynal Tapp 314gr 18" Bolts
Ramcat 100gr
Genesis 27:3
Now then, get your equipment, your quiver and bow, and go out to the open country to hunt some wild game for me.
NRA Lifetime Member
Hawke XB30 Pro
8ptbuk Custom Flemish String
Spynal Tapp 314gr 18" Bolts
Ramcat 100gr
Genesis 27:3
Now then, get your equipment, your quiver and bow, and go out to the open country to hunt some wild game for me.
NRA Lifetime Member
Re: Do you really need to spine test and weigh arrows for go
Yes.. And even more so with Bee's...
Matrix, 355. Hawke Xb-30 Pro. Ibex, Nikon Bolt. Strings By Boo, Nchunter, Zombies & Spynal Tapps From South Shore Archery,Now Built By My Son, N.A.P. Spitfire XXX and Magnus Black Hornets. (Fight Hard..Love Fast.. Die Young..)
Re: Do you really need to spine test and weigh arrows for go
the spin test is to make sure you have no wobble with the BH....which will give you fits trying to get any good accuracy if you don't....as to weighing arrows, that just lets you know everything is the same from arrow to arrow....
exocet 200. STS dampers.
boo string and trigger work.
munch mount quiver mount.
125 gr slick trick magums.
2" blazers on 2117 XX75 w/ brass inserts.
boo string and trigger work.
munch mount quiver mount.
125 gr slick trick magums.
2" blazers on 2117 XX75 w/ brass inserts.
Re: Do you really need to spine test and weigh arrows for go
Bob, all respect Sir, but he's talking about SPINE indexing to improve accuracy by finding the stiffest side of the arrow, or spine.bob1961 wrote:the spin test is to make sure you have no wobble with the BH....which will give you fits trying to get any good accuracy if you don't....as to weighing arrows, that just lets you know everything is the same from arrow to arrow....
On heavy crossbow bolts there is always the argument that it does not improve accuracy. I have done a lot of blind testing with a few willing participants, and find that there is little to gain at hunting distances. Less than 1/2" from a bench using groups of six arrows in .003" and .001" That said, does it work? Well here is what it does in simple terms.
What you're doing is looking for the side of the arrow that has the most deflection, then using that indication to fletch the group of arrows with the end result hoping to predict where the arrow will flex, at what distance, repeatedly over several arrows. If you think it works, use it, if you shoot long distances, it is another tool that certainly won't hurt your accuracy. There are other arguments as well as to which side to cock vane the arrow, stiff, or flex side, again, if all of the arrows in the group are done the same, the results should be the same.
I don't index mine anymore, but i don't shoot competition, so what I get from my random vane placement works just fine for me. Additionally, all of the finished arrows you get from Excalibur, or any other manufacturer are not indexed. Just some food for thought folks, not looking to discredit anyone, or argue my point, it works for me as I stated.
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- wildcatter
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Re: Do you really need to spine test and weigh arrows for go
I am one who has built arrows both ways, staic spine indexed, and dynamic spine indexed, and have seen how I can have many more keepers in a dozen arrows with dynamic tuning, and have also seen first hand how much better My high poundage Excalibur's will shoot using, "good arrows" over what it comes with, especially with fixed blade broadheads installed!
If you want 20 to 40 yards hunting accuracy it's not hard to get something that will work. If you want to make that type of accuracy better at 60 and 70 yards,,, you definitely need premium arrows and some attention to details. My problem is after going thru the hassles of bare shaft tuning, and seeing I can get 10 arrows out of a dozen to to group within 1" at 70 yards,,,, compared to 5 or 7 by just throwing them together,,, I think it's worth the time,,,,,, and I am talking about that kind of accuracy with 8 to 10 arrows or more out of a dozen using fixed broadheads,,,,, also premium quality.
As for using a rest, there simply is no way to test anything offhand. We all have good days and bad days, without eliminating the human error to identify what our equipment is capable of, we can never know for sure what we are capable of!! I agree with a card table, hood of the truck, picnic table, or whatever kind of bench and rest you can use is needed to find what will work best. Offhand if you shoot a dozen arrows at single spots, and repeat that test, you may find the arrows that are capable of the same hole every time, may shoot the biggest flier, just because of human error, and maybe an arrow that would never hit the same spot twice, will now be the one that hit dead center twice,,,, it's just no way to make positive decisions!
I always test, sight in, sort, using a solid rest, and follow up with a final sight in the way I will hunt, offhand resting my elbows on something holding the bow as I would hunting. I would already know what the bow and my arrows are capable of, and knowing it will do 1" at 70 yards with broadheads installed,,,, that's what I expect every shot,,, when I can't I know I need more practice!!! But it's all up to you, and what is good enough to please you, if all you care about is killing a deer out to 20 or 30 yards,,, just about anything should satisfy,,, you decide,,, it's all up to the individual just what they want. But I have found that whatever it is, the Excalibur of your choice will do it!!!
If you want 20 to 40 yards hunting accuracy it's not hard to get something that will work. If you want to make that type of accuracy better at 60 and 70 yards,,, you definitely need premium arrows and some attention to details. My problem is after going thru the hassles of bare shaft tuning, and seeing I can get 10 arrows out of a dozen to to group within 1" at 70 yards,,,, compared to 5 or 7 by just throwing them together,,, I think it's worth the time,,,,,, and I am talking about that kind of accuracy with 8 to 10 arrows or more out of a dozen using fixed broadheads,,,,, also premium quality.
As for using a rest, there simply is no way to test anything offhand. We all have good days and bad days, without eliminating the human error to identify what our equipment is capable of, we can never know for sure what we are capable of!! I agree with a card table, hood of the truck, picnic table, or whatever kind of bench and rest you can use is needed to find what will work best. Offhand if you shoot a dozen arrows at single spots, and repeat that test, you may find the arrows that are capable of the same hole every time, may shoot the biggest flier, just because of human error, and maybe an arrow that would never hit the same spot twice, will now be the one that hit dead center twice,,,, it's just no way to make positive decisions!
I always test, sight in, sort, using a solid rest, and follow up with a final sight in the way I will hunt, offhand resting my elbows on something holding the bow as I would hunting. I would already know what the bow and my arrows are capable of, and knowing it will do 1" at 70 yards with broadheads installed,,,, that's what I expect every shot,,, when I can't I know I need more practice!!! But it's all up to you, and what is good enough to please you, if all you care about is killing a deer out to 20 or 30 yards,,, just about anything should satisfy,,, you decide,,, it's all up to the individual just what they want. But I have found that whatever it is, the Excalibur of your choice will do it!!!
Hunt Hard or Stay Home!
380 Mad Max, XB-30 Pro 18" ZombiesW/ 125 gr ST
330 Mad Max Custom XB-30 Pro 16" B.E.E. W/100 gr ST
Leica R-1000 - Zeiss 8X42 Conquest HD
On the Hunt for the next!!
380 Mad Max, XB-30 Pro 18" ZombiesW/ 125 gr ST
330 Mad Max Custom XB-30 Pro 16" B.E.E. W/100 gr ST
Leica R-1000 - Zeiss 8X42 Conquest HD
On the Hunt for the next!!
Re: Do you really need to spine test and weigh arrows for go
This is just my opinion, but iIf one has the equipment, it doesn't take that much more time to test for and locate the spine and build your arrows accordingly. I guess the final answer depends on what degree of accuracy a person is looking for. Does it really make a difference? That is debatable, but if it gives you more confidence in your equipment and your shot, I say go for it. I prefer to know without question where my arrow will impact when I turn it loose, it might be the only shot I get for the season and I want it to hit its mark.
Matrix 380
18" Zombies, 400 gr w/ 125 gr Magnus Stingers & Lumenoks
Exomag
20" Zombies, 380 gr w/ 100 gr Magnus Stingers
18" Zombies, 400 gr w/ 125 gr Magnus Stingers & Lumenoks
Exomag
20" Zombies, 380 gr w/ 100 gr Magnus Stingers
Re: Do you really need to spine test and weigh arrows for go
Not with Aluminum!
Re: Do you really need to spine test and weigh arrows for go
I agree with most of what Bob said with the addition of couple of things.wildcatter wrote:I am one who has built arrows both ways, staic spine indexed, and dynamic spine indexed, and have seen how I can have many more keepers in a dozen arrows with dynamic tuning, and have also seen first hand how much better My high poundage Excalibur's will shoot using, "good arrows" over what it comes with, especially with fixed blade broadheads installed!
If you want 20 to 40 yards hunting accuracy it's not hard to get something that will work. If you want to make that type of accuracy better at 60 and 70 yards,,, you definitely need premium arrows and some attention to details. My problem is after going thru the hassles of bare shaft tuning, and seeing I can get 10 arrows out of a dozen to to group within 1" at 70 yards,,,, compared to 5 or 7 by just throwing them together,,, I think it's worth the time,,,,,, and I am talking about that kind of accuracy with 8 to 10 arrows or more out of a dozen using fixed broadheads,,,,, also premium quality.
As for using a rest, there simply is no way to test anything offhand. We all have good days and bad days, without eliminating the human error to identify what our equipment is capable of, we can never know for sure what we are capable of!! I agree with a card table, hood of the truck, picnic table, or whatever kind of bench and rest you can use is needed to find what will work best. Offhand if you shoot a dozen arrows at single spots, and repeat that test, you may find the arrows that are capable of the same hole every time, may shoot the biggest flier, just because of human error, and maybe an arrow that would never hit the same spot twice, will now be the one that hit dead center twice,,,, it's just no way to make positive decisions!
I always test, sight in, sort, using a solid rest, and follow up with a final sight in the way I will hunt, offhand resting my elbows on something holding the bow as I would hunting. I would already know what the bow and my arrows are capable of, and knowing it will do 1" at 70 yards with broadheads installed,,,, that's what I expect every shot,,, when I can't I know I need more practice!!! But it's all up to you, and what is good enough to please you, if all you care about is killing a deer out to 20 or 30 yards,,, just about anything should satisfy,,, you decide,,, it's all up to the individual just what they want. But I have found that whatever it is, the Excalibur of your choice will do it!!!
Get your FOC higher.
Use the regular Blazers.
Get as much off set to your Blazers. Use an Arizona EZ Fletch Bolt.
The above will give you better guidance especially at extended ranges.
Some people just like stepping on rakes
Re: Do you really need to spine test and weigh arrows for go
yeah don, I seen that when I just got back here....I read it too fast ....Bob, all respect Sir, but he's talking about SPINE indexing to improve accuracy by finding the stiffest side of the arrow, or spine.
exocet 200. STS dampers.
boo string and trigger work.
munch mount quiver mount.
125 gr slick trick magums.
2" blazers on 2117 XX75 w/ brass inserts.
boo string and trigger work.
munch mount quiver mount.
125 gr slick trick magums.
2" blazers on 2117 XX75 w/ brass inserts.