Rail Tip.... to help save string serving wear.

[Heyu]

Haven't seen this tip posted yet, and thought it's a excellent tip to share with others that don't mind doing a little extra to their CB. This was told to me over the phone while placing a order by a gentlemen who most know well. He don't like to blow his own horn. ( likes his phone to communicate. Hint. ) We were talking about the micro, but this would apply to any of the un coated rails. To make this short. He said to use the finest steel wool, and polish your rails. It will take off any unseen burrs, sharp edges, and make a very smooth surface. Saves on the servings. I did it to both my 335 and 355. Taking off the ADF/ scope mount was easy. I used a torch to heat my Allen wrench and put it in the cap screw to heat the lock tite up a bit. Each one broke free while just applying steady pressure. Not a one rounded off between the two bows! Place tape to keep anything falling into trigger unit as you polish the rail. Hope someone else can make use of this tip if needed.

[Scarecrow]

Sounds like something I will try before I assemble my new 380!!

[GRUNDY]

I was recently advised by the same source to NOT use any wax or lube on the serving and rail. That the string/serving would polish the rail and latches as you shoot.

B

[Drew]

Hmmm...I've heard about not lubing the rail but as an engineer I do not see how this makes any sense. I'd love to hear an explanation on why you wouldn't. Not only is the string sliding across at very high velocity, there is also significant downward pressure to boot. So...downward pressure + a high velocity sliding component + friction. What part of that leads one to think...no lube?? Seems a no brainer to me.

Shortly after I got my M355 I started using Scorpion Venom rail lube and string wax. Wax the string and let finger friction melt it in, and whatever residue is left on my fingers gets rubbed into the serving. The rail gets waxed with the applicator tip of the rail lube and the "edges" where the bolt actually contacts the rail get hit with a Q-Tip with rail lube. Same with the actual engagement surface of the latches. The Scorpion Venom rail lube is a very thin wax that seems to "dry" over time but is slicker than snot! Does not seem to attract dirt/debris and I've not had an issue with serving wear since I started this regiment.

But the steel wool idea seems plausible. As long as one doesn't wear through the anodizing.

[paulaboutform]

Sounds like a great tip. Unlike Drew, I had huge issues of premature serving separation when I used rail lube. I also used the scorpion venom. Now, I simply spray a little silicone lubricant onto a microfiber cloth and wipe the rail until it's clean. I then use a clean part of the cloth to wipe off any residue.

Paul

[Drew]

That's a great idea too Paul! It probably still leaves a very thin lubed surface of lower friction coefficient without any residue at all. Seems easier to apply than the way I currently do it too.

I'm surprised you had serving separation issues with the Scorpion Venom. I've had servings get chewed up badly and one separate a bit but that was a OEM claw issue. That went away with the TT trigger.