Question on what would you pay for vanes

[diesel]

Here is a link to AT where they were talking about the SK300

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1962491

[paulaboutform]

Hi all, I've been a little preoccupied for the last while so I haven't had a chance to chime in. First off, I've used flexfletch vanes for years and have seen three national 3D championships won in the past using them. My opinion, they are the best vanes available. I decided to try the SK200's a while back and when I got them, even before I even put them on any arrows, I was very excited about them and calling Boo telling him about the SK200's and how I suspected these would outperform the blazers. Fletching them was a breeze. I've stated before, use the zing primer by Flex Fletch. You don't need to clean your vanes. Just clean the shaft, wipe the zing onto the base of the fletching and away you go. These vanes are super stiff, super tough and super light. I've only had one day to test them out to 60yards and they were indeed outperforming my beloved blazers. However, I was also setting up my new Vortex Viper XB-R 1MOA scope and something worked loose and I didn't have time to deal with it. I do plan to test these at least out to 100yards.
As far as people testing these, my opinion is that we cannot place everyone in a controlled environment nor should we try. My personal opinion, fletch up some arrows, exactly like your current setup with blazers, but with the flex fletch vanes. Fletch them with the same method. IE., if you're using the bolt, test SK200's using the bolt. If you're using a Bitz, test SK200's or SK300's using a Bitz.
My initial findings lead me to believe the Flex Fletch vanes are superior and more accurate than the blazers. I believe future testing will confirm my suspicions.

Paul

[flightattendant100]

Paul, do you use the Zing adhesive to go along with the primer, and I also noticed Zing has s primer "pen" now, looks like a marks-a-lot. Ever tried it? Thanks in advance.

[SEW]

I expect that the stiffer vane will be superior AND QUIETER.
Crossbow arrows should start out already stabilized: unlike an arrow out of a vbow that needs to be quickly stabilized which is where dragier fletching helps more.

[Boo]

I expect that the stiffer vane will be superior AND QUIETER.
Crossbow arrows should start out already stabilized: unlike an arrow out of a vbow that needs to be quickly stabilized which is where dragier fletching helps more.

They are a tapered vane with the outside edge being very soft and progressively stiffer towards the base. It is very stiff from around the middle and super stiff as it nears the base.
I fletched a bunch last light and here are my observations.
The surface seems too slick to be just plastic, I think here's a lubricant on it from the extrusion process.
The base really needs a cleaning, it's a bit irregular and there are black deposits, probably from being extruded.
The base is not cupped which means how you glue is critical, the base of Blazers are perfect for easy adhesion.
The surface of many of the vanes are not consistent, most are mirror smooth but some look like an undulating surface.
I didn't have much trouble using a Arizona EZ Fletch tool. I did find, however, that you have to push the base of the tool towards the center to make the rear of the vane make contact with the shaft. As well, once assembled, I wrapped the center of the tool with green masking tape. The base of the vane is thinner and shows up when trying to get the center of the fletching to make contact. I assume it is because the plastic fletching arms of the tool used for the 3" are long and flex enough to cause trouble with the thin base. I think the Bitz type tool is going to be better.

[paulaboutform]

Paul, do you use the Zing adhesive to go along with the primer, and I also noticed Zing has s primer "pen" now, looks like a marks-a-lot. Ever tried it? Thanks in advance.

Hi Paul, I don't use the Zing adhesive. Although, if it's backed by Flex Fletch I can assure you it'll be great. I use the G5 Blue Glue and so far it's the best I've used and I don't have plans to change anytime soon. I have the spray bottle and the regular bottle which has a built in brush in the cap like a bottle of nail polish. The stuff is expensive so I don't spray and I don't think you get enough value from the pen. I simply put my vanes in the fletching jig, Bolt Fletcher, and brush on the Zing.

Paul

[W.Miguire]

Hi Paul, will the 2" Flex Fletch work in the Arizona Bolt Fletcher?
W.M.

[paulaboutform]

Hi Paul, will the 2" Flex Fletch work in the Arizona Bolt Fletcher?
W.M.

Absolutely. That's what I use.

Paul

[racking up points]

Here are some 18.5" Spynal Tapps that I fletched in my EZ bolt. Full disclosure, I am very new to arrow making and trying to learn as much as I can.

Because of the shield cut shape of the SK200s they are a little trickier for the novice to Fletch in the EZ bolt and I wasted a few until I got my mojo working. The more of them I made, the cleaner they came out. It's definitely doable, especially so if you have some experience. The bottom channel of the SK200s are shallower and slicker, as such I find less glue is required in comparison to a Blazer. I did not use any kind of primer on the vanes. In the future I probably will use the primer, having said that I don't see any reason why these vanes won't be every bit as durable as the Blazers I have fletched.

[paulaboutform]

Very nice Derrick, you're certainly a quick study. ....I do think you're mistaken about the SK200's being as durable as the blazers though....I'm sure you'll find they far surpass the blazers.

Paul

[racking up points]

Very nice Derrick, you're certainly a quick study. ....I do think you're mistaken about the SK200's being as durable as the blazers though....I'm sure you'll find they far surpass the blazers.

Paul

Naturally, the SK is a way sturdier material. What I meant was that by not applying the primer, I don't see them falling off any easier than my Blazers, which I also don't apply primer to.

[W.Miguire]

what I found on the flex fletch vanes that they are thinner than the Blazers and not as hi so what I did was line each slot of my bolt fletcher with scotch tape and put a peace of tape on the vane so I can load it into the jig and it holds them tighter . getting ready to fletch a few let you know how this works. can't wait to give them a try.
W.M.

[VixChix]

Jumping in on this a bit late but... for competition I'd certainly go for them.... if they'd make a difference for my slower xbow.

[mchurch]

Yes I would pay more

[nchunterkw]

I just looked these up on Eagle Archery and they have the SK 300s for $0.20 - $0.29. They also have my Trueflight feathers for $0.22, so cost -wise the SKs would be a wash for me.

And I think many misunderstood what I was trying to say. Simply put if you want to do an experiment to find out which vane is the most accurate, then the only thing you want to vary in the experiment is the vane. Everything else must remain consistent. Otherwise, those other factors will contribute to the variance and could skew the results. And in the case of arrows, small differences in other aspects could cause a great change in POI....especially at 100yds.

And to Graham's point, the conditions used need to be clear so clear conclusions can be drawn, and guys can take all that info and make informed decisions.

IMO controlled conditions should be used as much as possible - because there are just too many "real world" conditions to try to test in.