Reinheart woodland target problems!!

[newbie]

To remove the arrows, give them a twist to break the material that has welded to the shaft from heat then pull.

Twisting is not good for carbon arrows. It will cause the fibers to weaken and separate...arrow lube or even rubbing bar soap on the last few inches of the arrow is all that's needed to help keep your arrows from sticking

Its the only way i do it. never had a problem doing it but thanks for the advice. its not a big twisting wrenching motion with lots of with dannys pliers placed close to the target the arrow doesnt twist much if at all.
Apparently shooting them into a target isn't good for them either

[Big John]

To close of shooting for high speed bows. Micro is one.
As for getting the broken arrow out, how about this: I will send you a piece of compound bow arrow that will fit just inside the broken arrow. Use some super glue and glue the piece inside the broken one. Let sit for about ten minutes. Then use arrow pullers to firmly but slowly pull the broken arrow out. If this doesn't work I will give another option. Try to get the target indoor and warm before doing this.

[newbie]

or try pushing it through the target. You may have better luck going that way

[bowmajik]

Thanks for all the help fellers! Big John you could pm me the s.o.p for your solution that would be great

[bowmajik]

Trying to post the pictures but I'm getting an error message that says "the board attachment quota has been reached"

[nchunterkw]

Another option is to take a thin knife, like a fillet knife and insert it next to the broken shaft to help the target be able to move a bit. Then you could maybe wiggle the shaft side to side.

And like everyone else said....10yds with FPs into a Rinehart is too close. I never shoot FPs into my Rinehart...that is reserved for BHs only. I shoot FPs into a bag target and remove them with 2 fingers.

[Squirrel]

This target is very easy on arrows, and they come out very easy, no need for an arrow puller.

http://morrelltargets.com/products/18/b ... nt-target/

[flightattendant100]

This target is very easy on arrows, and they come out very easy, no need for an arrow puller.

http://morrelltargets.com/products/18/b ... nt-target/

WARNING!!!!! If you lube your arrows to shoot into a Rinehart type target, then shoot the target above, you may loose an arrow!!!! A 16 to 17" arrow can hide completely in the above target. Been there done that, still got lost arrow in my target!!!

[Bullzeye]

The "shot too close" theory could be the ticket, the closest I've ever shot my block is 20 yards, maybe that's why I've never had issues.

[Hi5]

You said you used an arrow puller. If it wasn't the type offered by Dan Miller, stop right now. His design is the LEAST likely to result in a crushed shaft, broken off flush with the target.

Even so, the arrow shaft is at risk of crumbling and leaving you with a target tip and part shaft permanently lodged in the target. That pretty much means a ruined target because you risk breaking more arrows if you hit the lodged one with a fresh arrow.

If you value your target, you need to be patient, and not rush into this.

I think Big John's idea of sliding another arrow shaft into the rear of your broken shaft is good. The only thing is you only get to do that trick once, and if if it doesn't work, your broken shaft may suffer more damage, and then you might not get a second chance.

I think a tight fitting solid rod, glued into the back of your broken shaft, might be safer. Then get a Dan Miller puller, pinch down like blazes onto the shaft that is exposed, giving a bit of a twist, and pull it out. A solid rod would be less likely to flex, or crush. You need strong inside support for that broken shaft. I'd want it to extend as far up into the broken shaft as I could glue it.

Remember, you are gluing things together where it counts to have the bond hold, so the work pieces need to be clean. If you are a slow mover like me, you might be better to use a reliably strong epoxy so you have more time to get things properly into place before the glue sets. Then let it set.

If you have access to cheap, threaded rod, and it would make a tight fit, that might be the best thing to use. Clean it thoroughly, though, so the glue can bond.

[bowmajik]

I got basspro to refund my money because the target was defective ... I think I will invest in a 18-1 next pay..Inspected them the foam it feels softer and more forgiving than the woodland block. Reinheart and basspro informed me the target had a manufacturers defect...upon removal of my zombie sayer the block did not self heal and the foam was very stiff and hard..Thanks all for the suggestions and info!