Micro 355 a few questions on bolts/accuracy

[Riflemanz]

Dead ringer 3 blade 2" cut heads are great. Here is one of my kills with that head.

[snugs]

When I was shooting the Gen 1 Micro 335 and my M380,405 and Vortex, there was a major factor I unintentionally omitted: custom arrows were being shot out of every other xbow except the Micro which was being used with the stock quills. Custom arrows should reduce the Micro's group size. I still think that as the range increases, the groups size disparity will increase compared the the longer arrows shot out of the longer limbed Matrix series.
Just wonder what a stiffer limbed, say #260-280, Equinox would do with 20" custom arrows. Right or wrong, I believe that longer limbs and longer arrows will group tighter at extended ranges.

Yeah it took me awhile, but I realized you weren't shooting custom arrows after reading some of your posts several times. I'm hoping the customs I ordered shoot a little better than what you got from the quills which I would still be happy with. I really wanted accuracy out to 75 if possible with my xb75 scope. I'm going to have to practice and see how good of groups I can get at different ranges. Then only take shots at distances I feel confident in IF the conditions are perfect. That is the idea anyways.
50 yards is a very long shot. I got fortunate to get a buck at 42 yards with the grizzly last year. Got him to stop chasing with the "BUURRRR" sound and popped him. I had my scope on a shooting stick and had a perfect rest for the shot.
I had to take a bunch of factors into consideration between the BD and micro 355, but just taking all of the factors into account is why I choose the Micro. The 75 yard deal wasn't the only factor. The bulldog is obviously proven at long range, but I still feel like from the information I had, the micro is still a little unknown for it's range (50-75 yards). I believe you said you got 3" groups at 60 with a micro. I would be happy with that.
I am getting this for hunting, and I'm not looking to shoot 2" groups at 100 yards. It appears most are confident the micro is good to go at 50 yards. I'll be happy with that, but I'm still going to try to see what kind of accuracy I can further.

Thanks to everyone for the advice so far!

[snugs]

Ya...... That's what I was trying to say.

Haha wasn't ignoring you or anyone else's posts. Just had to take a lot of factors into consideration

[snugs]

Dead ringer 3 blade 2" cut heads are great. Here is one of my kills with that head.

Those did the job!
It's probably just me, but you look like that guy off the old TV show coach.
Good job coach!
Those are mechanical right?

[snugs]

Do I need flat lumenoks or half moon? I told them flat. Is that right?

For broadheads, here is what I'm looking for:
-fixed head
-accurate (hopeful same POI as field point)
-good blood trails
-I assumed 100gr since that is what my field points were gonna be but whatever is recommended.

Also should I leave my bow cocked overnight the night before shooting?

Thanks again for all the advice.

[Riflemanz]

Flat nock, you can try slick tricks for fixed BH. Rocket Hammerheads also shoot great! Get a Flemish string from one of our great string makers on the classified forum. Don't forget to use blue loc tite on those scope base screws.

[sproulman]

Just ordered spinal tap. All I need now are 100 grain broadheads...any recommendation? Are NAP thunderheads accurate?

I still like Spitfire 100 heads from 1995 and still going ..they are 26 dollars on e bay or 34 at wal-mart ..buy 1 practice point they are around 9 bucks ..

fixed heads people at club shoot G5 AND THE SLICK TRICK POINTS...

[snugs]

The construction of the G5 montec, and nap hell razor seems interesting to me. Is there any way for me to tune something like this? Wouldn't I want all my blades/vanes to be oriented the same?

[janesy]

The construction of the G5 montec, and nap hell razor seems interesting to me. Is there any way for me to tune something like this? Wouldn't I want all my blades/vanes to be oriented the same?

Doesn't make a concern able difference. Except makes you buy another set of broad heads .

[snugs]

The construction of the G5 montec, and nap hell razor seems interesting to me. Is there any way for me to tune something like this? Wouldn't I want all my blades/vanes to be oriented the same?

Doesn't make a concern able difference. Except makes you buy another set of broad heads .

So you are saying tuning does not help accuracy?

[Ekkie]

So you are saying tuning does not help accuracy?

I tried aligning the blades with the vanes, and found it didn't make any difference with my setup. Honestly, no difference at all in group size out to 60 yards shooting from a bench.

If you have a particularly large fixed-blade broadhead, you might need to align it such that all the blades clear the stirrup... especially if you have your stirrup wrapped.

~E

[Ekkie]

And actually, let me clarify a little. Assuming your inserts can be turned (as with hot glue, a lock 'n load insert, or whatever), turning them can definitely change the point of impact a little. But there was no correlation between tighter groups and aligning the broadhead blades with the vanes.

The way I tune an arrow is that if it's consistently hitting a point outside of the "normal" group of arrows, I'll turn the insert, or the nock, or square the ends of the arrow, or even just use a different cock vane (since I use flat nocks). If I can't bring it into the group it gets tossed aside. Also- if the arrow doesn't group with itself, then that indicates a problem with the shaft... so it gets tossed aside.

So in short, yes- tuning can make a big difference. It's slightly different from tuning a vertical bow though.

Good luck,
~E

[sproulman]

And actually, let me clarify a little. Assuming your inserts can be turned (as with hot glue, a lock 'n load insert, or whatever), turning them can definitely change the point of impact a little. But there was no correlation between tighter groups and aligning the broadhead blades with the vanes.

The way I tune an arrow is that if it's consistently hitting a point outside of the "normal" group of arrows, I'll turn the insert, or the nock, or square the ends of the arrow, or even just use a different cock vane (since I use flat nocks). If I can't bring it into the group it gets tossed aside. Also- if the arrow doesn't group with itself, then that indicates a problem with the shaft... so it gets tossed aside.

So in short, yes- tuning can make a big difference. It's slightly different from tuning a vertical bow though.

Good luck,
~E

Good info..Some at club cut their vanes off and reglue them by moving vanes like 1/16 inch around the arrow to bring arrow into others ..They said it works sometimes..

I am finding out that out of doz arrows you can get 2 to 4 that do not hit where others group and nothing you can do after doing what you did..I too just use they for practice 1 arrow at a time if they group good by themselves which all 2 or 4 usually do but just will not group with other arrows in doz.....

With field points a bad arrow can shoot with other arrows UNTIL you add a hunting practice point or hunting point ..I went thru this recently squaring arrows did help but most times its arrow and if you put your arrow near vanes on arrow spinner and spin you will see arrow wobble MORE at point than if you if you have vanes back more when spinning .

spinner will show bad arrow quick this way .then take your arrows that are shooting good and put the vanes on arrow near rear marbles and spin you will see straight arrow with no wobble at point..

[Riflemanz]

Buy an 18-1 BH target and shoot the heads you'll be hunting with. I found Rocket hammerheads, freak nasty 2" 3blade heads shoot like a fp also trauma 3 1/8" shot great. For fixed blade use slick trick heads. You bought some great arrows too!

[snugs]

Sounds like qad exodus is good?
Was thinking about getting those
And nap hell razor and maybe 1 other and seeing how they group.
Maybe throw a set of bolt cutters on the quills.
I'm really just concerned with the consistency of one arrow with broadhead...
I think I'm just looking to get one arrow shooting as accurate as possible to hunt with with a broadhead on.
Sounds like larger broadheads drift more?
Are mechanical broadheads the way to go ?

I have a block target, but may get another.
Thoughts ?