Help setting speed adjustment on crossbones

[Bcwn]

Okay guys I'm thinking my speed dial on my crossbones, at least thats what I think. So I'm dialed in at 20 yards keeping all my arrows within the size of a quarter. I'm using a caldwell led sled so there is very little variance there if any at all.

With my arrows hitting spot on at 20 yards, I seem to be almost 3-4 inches high at 40 yards. Aint got a clue. HELP!

Brad

[hunt2sleep]

Is the magnification already maxed out? If not you need to increase the magnification. Turn the magnification ring to a higher speed. Remember the numbers are just a rough reference point.

[xcaliber]

Aim where you were aiming and adjust your speed ring to line up on the arrow, then shoot another. Should be right there! Don't be concerned about what the dial says your speed is, it is a reference only.

[BrotherRon]

Is the magnification already maxed out? If not you need to increase the magnification. Turn the magnification ring to a higher speed. Remember the numbers are just a rough reference point.

x2

[colouredchameleon]

Someone correct me if I am wrong!
But I was always lead to believe the best distance to use when making the final speed dial adjustment is at 50 yards.
( Of course using all Excalibur Equipment - Scope / Crossbow /Arrows)

20 Yards to Set Zero ( by means of Windage/Elevation Dials adjustments)
(Start by ONLY setting zero with same arrow on same Vane)

If you already know your best arrow / vane / head combination then use that one.
( I have one arrow same vane / same head that I use exclusively for Zeroing that was determined from a lot of sessions to be the most constance from shoot to shoot)
( It is my main Control Arrow as a go to only if I suspect accuracy issues / or make changes with my equipment.

50 yards to set zero for 30/40/50/60 . ( Adjust Speed Ring Only )
(Up Speed Ring Setting to lower impact point / Down Speed Ring Setting to raise impact point )

Once Set then go back to 20 yards and fine tune each of your arrows to determine best vane on each to use for best grouping as a set.

To then switch from Broad heads to field points use it is a simple in most cases just a minor adjustment to the Speed Ring.
(First Test impact at head switch a 20 yards / then adjust speed ring at 50 yards to zero if required for (20/30/40/50/60 yards)

Has always worked well for me in a quick to no time shooting session

[robertyb]

I have always used 20 and 40 to set mine.

[nchunterkw]

The reticles are close but not always exact as well. Depends on the arrow setup, it's velocity, and ballistics coefficient. On my Hawke Pro SR, with my Micro and my arrow, I zero at 20 and then my reticles are 20, 30, 41. 53. If I would set my speed ring at 50 to be dead nuts, then I would be off everywhere else. I want 20 and 30 to be good and sacrifice a bit on the longer ranges as those are shots I likely would not take on deer. BUT...I use the longer ranges to verify that I have good arrows and that they fly well. You see more with your arrows at longer ranges than at 20 or 30 IMO.

Zero at 20, go to 40 and set the speed ring, then check 30, 40 and 50 to verify.

[colouredchameleon]

I have always used 20 and 40 to set mine.

Will have to give 40 yards a try next time I need to to see if there is any difference between setting it at 40 yards versus 50 yards.

My question is there any manufactures recommended instructions when it comes to setting up the crossbones scope

I tend to leave it to the experts and follow the manufacture's recommends on such things. I find it saves a lot of time rather going the trial and error error route.

I have both of these scopes below and have always followed the original Setup Instructions to a T ( Bill T that is )

http://www.excaliburcrossbow.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Dead-Zone-Instructions.pdf

http://www.excaliburcrossbow.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/1962_Twilight_DLX_Instructions_12ENG.pdf

CC

[xcaliber]

The reticles are close but not always exact as well. Depends on the arrow setup, it's velocity, and ballistics coefficient. On my Hawke Pro SR, with my Micro and my arrow, I zero at 20 and then my reticles are 20, 30, 41. 53. If I would set my speed ring at 50 to be dead nuts, then I would be off everywhere else. I want 20 and 30 to be good and sacrifice a bit on the longer ranges as those are shots I likely would not take on deer. BUT...I use the longer ranges to verify that I have good arrows and that they fly well. You see more with your arrows at longer ranges than at 20 or 30 IMO.

Zero at 20, go to 40 and set the speed ring, then check 30, 40 and 50 to verify.

Yep, I have very close POI through the ranges, but concentrate a lot more on 20, and 30 yards. Verify the rest, but don't put all my attention on them, just nice to know where it's going to hit, and verify arrow consistency. Keith, you said it right!

[colouredchameleon]

I guess i am curious and would really like to know now.

HOW and WHY Excalibur came up with their recommendation of the use of the 50 yard distance for the final speed ring adjustment.

[sproulman]

As you turn ring up your power gets stronger ..I keep mine at 380 on my tact zone as it is best setting to see a Buck clear at 30 yards and target also..

But i do not use lines only the 20 yd one sighted in at 30 yards never shoot buck over 35 yards,never ...

But that is not your question

[nchunterkw]

I guess i am curious and would really like to know now.

HOW and WHY Excalibur came up with their recommendation of the use of the 50 yard distance for the final speed ring adjustment.

My guess is it is based on the ballistics curves they developed with their arrows being shot out of their bows. That is surely how they developed the reticles. So if you deviate from that set of variables things will be different. And if I remember right, they were only going for good hunting accuracy (2" or 3" at 40yds say...)

[colouredchameleon]

I guess i am curious and would really like to know now.

HOW and WHY Excalibur came up with their recommendation of the use of the 50 yard distance for the final speed ring adjustment.

My guess is it is based on the ballistics curves they developed with their arrows being shot out of their bows. That is surely how they developed the reticles. So if you deviate from that set of variables things will be different. And if I remember right, they were only going for good hunting accuracy (2" or 3" at 40yds say...)

Well if their intent was accuracy at best was 2" to 3" groups @ 40 yds then they surely out did themselves.
I have learned the hard way over the years even at 50 yds under ideal shooting conditions to never shoot two shots in a row at the same spot as it can become expensive by destroying a few good arrows over the years risking it.
Good for the ego and neat to see having two arrows welded togeither end to end.
But such a waste however of two good arrows just to stroke ones ego even a bit. ( $35.00 poorer)
Normally to Risk It @ 40 to 50 yds you would most likely get away with it more times then not .
But to risk trying even once @ 20 to 30 yds is never a good thing.
After hundreds and hundreds of shots over the years I am still amazed how Good My Excalibur Crossbow Makes Me Look.

CC

[catclr]

Okay guys I'm thinking my speed dial on my crossbones, at least thats what I think. So I'm dialed in at 20 yards keeping all my arrows within the size of a quarter. I'm using a caldwell led sled so there is very little variance there if any at all.

With my arrows hitting spot on at 20 yards, I seem to be almost 3-4 inches high at 40 yards. Aint got a clue. HELP!

Brad

Sent you a PM