adjusting the rubber string stoppers

[sonnyboy]

I really don't know the correct name, but the rubber string stoppers that stop string slap , are supposed to be 1/4" away from the string when the bow is in an uncocked state. I could not get the stoppers to get this spacing, so I had to make a heavy rubber shim to push the stopper to the 1/4" mark. When I tighten down the set screw, I am on the very edge of the post with the flat spot that the set screw pins down. Did I get the wrong stoppers when I got it new last year? I also with 150gr bolt cutters on diablo arrows, cannot attain anthing close to 380FPS, or 370FPS, or 360FPS, or 350 FPS or 340 FPS. I can only achieve about 330FPS. I tried Flemish strings, factory excaliber strings. My friend bought his bow the matrix 380 with the same bow,arrows,string, everything the same, an his speed is around the 380 mark. What could my problem be???. If my friend didn't have the exact same setup, I would think that my bolt speed at 330 is normal.....can anybody give some advise???.................sonny

[janesy]

You shouldn't be adjusting your REDS at all. The Reds and or the joint should be your fixed measurement in which the string is measured from. Not the other way around.
The actually possition of the REDS is not your concern, your aim it to put the string in the right spot. When the string hits the pads is not important, except in correlation to where the string sits compared to the joint. It is a guideline.

Perhaps you should measure from the joint and work from there. After you put the REDS back.

[janesy]

Secondly, are you measuring your speed with a chrony, or the numbers on your scope?

[Bcxbow]

You shouldn't be adjusting your REDS at all. The Reds and or the joint should be your fixed measurement in which the string is measured from. Not the other way around.
The actually possition of the REDS is not your concern, your aim it to put the string in the right spot

To add to what janesy said, if you are looking for advertised speed of 380fps from a M380 that speed is with a 350gr arrow total which mean you will never see that with a 150gr point.

[sonnyboy]

Janesy, What do you mean????..........the bow limbs is 1" from the joint to the forearm connection point, as the book said. My book also said, that the reds?? was supposed to be 1/4 " from the string, which my reds rubber string stopper, was around 1" or more away. I spoke with another excaliber dealer about the distance at the reds to the string face, an was told that it should be 1/4" away.......I can't get 1/4" away unless I made a hard leather shim to fit the mounting shaft, building it out away an closer to the string to make the 1/4" measurement. My adjustment on the shaft which is secured by a allen screw, just nickes the edge an won't hold very well as its too short to keep it there. You are telling me that even though the reds is over 1" away from the string, that means nothing? should it be 1/4" or 1" or what on my matrix 380. Will this string stopper at any length make accuracy issues with target????....................sonny

[janesy]

So the distance between the Reds and your string. Is a guideline. But in actually function, it does not matter.

The guideline that the Reds refers to is a visual reference to the distance between the joint in the riser. That measurement is critical for proper function.

So as it sits, if the measurement between the joint and your string is correct, it will also be 1/4" from the Reds.

Using the reference to the Reds as 1/4, allows you to make a quick visual check without having to measure with a tape each time.

[janesy]

Here is a chart to help you. If I recall correctly, you have a 380, and you bought a new string recently. If so, you new matrix string could be designed for the NEW matrix models that use the micro riser. Confusing I know, but in which case it would make the string 1/2 shorter.

However, you should position your string withing the guideline using the riser joint, disregarding where it falls in relation to the REDS. If your string lines up with the joint measurement but not the REDS, it's possible you bought the wrong REDS . But the old matrix ones are actually the short ones... So unlikely that's the case.

[janesy]

Post a pic up, or email it to me. Try to take the pic exactly as the above chart shows and we can diagnose from there. We can get this figured out

[sonnyboy]

My brace height is exactly 1".......exactly...........My rubber string stoppers are exactly 1/4" from the string, just like in the picture....now.... They use to be 1 0r 1 1/4" from the string......sonny...... I tried to send you email, but could not do so with the computer. My email address is [email protected]. Send me your phone number an you can probably talk me through this easier then typing emails...........sonny

[janesy]

All good. I got you pic. Mind if I post it??

Problem solved. Take your spacers out, install your REDS post fully seated, and untwist your string until it is 1/2" off the joint. Or better 5/8" off the line, so it can settle if you think it needs to.

1" is the top of the allowance for your brace height. You can be anywhere between .5-1". (see chart above)

At .5 off the joint, you'll be around 1/4. You can be 1/8 or 3/8 off the REDS... It doesn't matter, as long as the joint measurement falls between .5 and 1.

[janesy]

Pic says a thousand words. So does my post count in this thread hahaha.

Yours looks like this...


It should look this...

[Bcxbow]

Good job Chris.

[sonnyboy]

Thanks for the help guys. I took off the reds an removed the leather shims, putting it back an tighten the set screw. I also backed off the brace height, from 1" to the joint, down to 3/4" to the joint. This made the string 1/4" from the redds when uncocked. I hope this won't slow it down too much from my 1" brace height before this adjustment. Sheesh, I even was blaming the Flemish boo string for slow speeds. I was told to make the brace height 5/8, but this made the string rest against the rubber stoppers when uncocked

[hankenhunter]

There will be little to no loss in speed. To make maintaining your brace height even easier, use a permanent sharpie and mark each side of the barrel where the string touches. Blends in with the cammo but is easy to find for accurate checking.
Hank

[janesy]

Thanks for the help guys. I took off the reds an removed the leather shims, putting it back an tighten the set screw. I also backed off the brace height, from 1" to the joint, down to 3/4" to the joint. This made the string 1/4" from the redds when uncocked. I hope this won't slow it down too much from my 1" brace height before this adjustment. Sheesh, I even was blaming the Flemish boo string for slow speeds. I was told to make the brace height 5/8, but this made the string rest against the rubber stoppers when uncocked

Excellent, glad it worked out!