Rage_A_Holic wrote:
Now here’s a newbie question for you. I just got my first VariZone today too; and have yet to shoot it. How do I go about "Sighting it in"?
This is how you sight in a varizone scope. Emax probably means 330-350 feet per second.
First set your target at 20 yards using the two knobs on the scope the top one is elevation (up & down) the side knob is windage (left and right) the knobs adjust the sights use the crosshairs to sight in at 20 yds shoot your bow from a rest first shot check where it hits and adjust the elevation 4 clicks for every inch your out, same for windage. When your on the bulls eye move to 40 yds and replace the caps on the knobs there is a ring aroud the rear appeture from 250 to 350, set it at about the 330 feet per second mark. Using only the speed ring increase or decrease the speed on the ring if you shoot high or low.
When you hit the bulls eye at 40 yds you will be on at all the marks in the eye piece from 10yds at the top to 50 yds it the botton mark.
Simple isn't it.
I have had the Vari-Zone scope on my Exomag for about 4 and a half years. I think the Exomag was the first to have it. I use gold tip laser 2 carbon bolts and 125 grain heads with a Fast Flight Flemish String. I threw the string that came with my scope in the Garbage without ever firing it. The same can be done with the factory string that comes with an Exomax. I was instructed by Wayne Jones to use an alternate set of numbers for my reticles. The top reticle marking above the cross hair should be 25 yards. The Cross Hair should be 30 Yards. One reticle marking below the Crosshair is 38 Yards. Two reticle markings below the crosshair is 46 Yards and the bottom reticle marking is 60 Yards.
The next most important piece of equipment that is needed is a stand to stabilize your crossbow for sighting it in. I use a set of Mad Dog's fin Grips on the back rack of my ATV to stabilize the bow while sighting. Sighting in your Bow the night before every hunt is the most important thing you will ever do. If you own a crossbow and use it for hunting it is imperative that you own a range finder. It will be the difference between bringing home meat and leaving meat in the bush. I used my bushnell range finder to mark a spot 30 yards and 38 yards out from the face of my garage door. I attached a kevlar bag to the inside face of the garage door by two chains. When the Garage door opens, the kevlar bag drops into position. I did this for convenience sake. When the Garage door is closed it sits flush against the door. The kevlar bag sits at the same height as the crossbow on the ATV (30 yards away) when the Garage door is open.
I use the exact same fletched bolt that I am going to hunt with. I use the same type of broadhead that I plan on using the following day but use a duplicate so as not to dull the hunting broadhead. I take free hand test shot at 20 yards if I have done a string change. This just to make sure the crossbow is partially sighted in. Then I move the crossbow back to the fin grips on the back of the ATV which is parked perpendicular to the target bag.
I steady the crossbow and take aim at the bulls eye and use a steady controlled squeeze of the trigger. Your first reaction will be to look up to see where the bolt went. Resist and look through the scope only. I squeeze then continue to look through the scope. A few arrows have been lost years ago due to looking up to quick.
The sight in dials at the front actually make a clicking sound when adjusting. I say this because I have met a number of people who have had trouble sighting in their crossbow because they were using the markings as the clicks and not the actual click sound. Make sure to remove the solid black dial caps and use a penny to adjust the dials inside.
Once you are accustomed to adjusting the dials on your scope you will be able to speed this up by adjusting both dials at the same time, after the first shot at 30 yards. It was recommended that I use the right dial first then the top dial second.
I adjust the dial on the right side first and set the left to right placement first. After a number of shots when the bolt is sitting on the vertical line you can then start adjusting the top dial for your vertical placement. At this point the you should be able bring it into the bulls eye. I usually use a field point of the same weight until I am close to the bulls eye then switch to a broadhead to do the final adjustments. Broadheads fly different than field points. One fletched arrow travels different than another fletched arrow. When you get in from the field don’t forget to sight your bow for the following day. Oil your trigger mechanism. I hope this will be helpful for you.
I spent the last 10 minutes pawning over my varizone.
There are clearly no clicking dials. Since I bought it used, is it possible it's an older model, and these old ones don't click?
the 2 large dials (1 up, one right) don't click, but they do turn. they get rather loose rather quickly, much like a threaded screw.
I don't have any available places to shoot at the moment; so I can't tell how far out the scope is (if any). Am I blind, and can't find these clicking dials, or is there another explanation?
bstout wrote:
Rage: You have to remove the dust covers. They screw off counter clockwise. The elevation is on the top and the windage (left/right adjustment) is on the side.
Unscrew the caps off the top and side. You will see a dial you can turn with a little screwdriver. One click equeals one half inch at twenty yards I think.
