Help a dummy understand an arrow/bolt please.

[galamb]

Since I like to yap I will try and give you some explanations as to the different options and "why" you might select different variables.

Setback - this is usually something that a finger shooter with a vertical bow is VERY concerned with. If the feathers are too close to the knock you can't get the shaft pinched between your fingers properly. It would be of less importance with a vertical bow and a release. With a cross bow the only thing I could really see it impacting is clearance on the trigger mechanism - you want the vanes far enough "ahead" that they don't get interfered with (someone else may have another idea, I just can't think of a major difference as long as they are far enough forward that they don't bind/drag).

Arrow length is (somewhat) personal choice. It must be long enough to get your broadhead in front of the rail - beyond that, if you don't mind it "hanging out front" you can go almost as long as you want (within reason) - generally as long as the broadhead doesn't extend beyond the stirrup it will be relatively safe. Varying the length changes the weight and balance of the arrow (all else being equal) and avid shooters are constantly tweaking things looking for the "perfect arrow".

Inserts will change the Front of Center (FOC - you can google and read volumes on that one). Some like very little FOC 10-14% and others, like me like "extreme" FOC, over 20%. From my own horsing around with less FOC your in flight arc is less (with extreme FOC it kinda "lobs" in) but I have (personally) found that I get significantly tighter groups, the way I am set-up, with extreme FOC arrows achieved by using 110 grain inserts.

The effect of the insert will be dependent on the weight of the arrow. A 92 grain insert will result in a significantly different effect if you are shooting a arrow that is say 8 grains per inch compared to one weighing 11 grains per inch, because the percentage of the "overall weight" up front will be different.

Again, FOC is something that each shooter has their own "voodoo views" on and something you should decide on for yourself.

Vanes - we could discuss them in 25 pages here and still not put a dent in trying to understand them all. Speed demons opt for very short/compact vanes - they are the lightest but they also provide the least amount of stabilization (all else being equal) - again, there is really "no right answer", it really is more of a preference thing. In general the faster you shoot the "less vane" you can get away with. I shoot "slower" and prefer 5" vanes. A longer vane will "always" provide better stabilization - how much and "is it worth it or necessary" is where the arguments start.

Orientation of the fletching for "crossbows" is again more of a preference than a necessity thing in my opinion. Again, with vertical bows, particularly longbows and recurves, some just shoot better with a helical which will stabilize a long, heavy, slow arrow better than a simple offset or even a straight fletch.

I have built bolts with both straight and right offset and did not see any measurable difference at distances out to 30 yards. I got mixed results with a right helical (which I use with my recurve) and suspect it's because the fletching met with some resistance in the channel cut in the rail - for that reason I would avoid the helicals, particularly with longer fletching (2" vanes might be ok, at 4 or 5" you will get some rubbing/resistance).

Nocks - again, plastic, aluminum, lighted, flat, moon - everyone has their voodoo.

I buck the trend and shoot plastic moon nocks with my Excal. Why? because I "trust them" - and I don't see it as any more complicated than that - again, no "right answer" as to what is better/stronger/faster or best.

And while I don't think of my current bolts as custom I guess they are depending on your definition. I don't buy them from a bulk box at Walmart. I order them starting with a (standard) shaft from GoldTip, but select the fletching, insert and nock (I don't have the length altered, but could) - so maybe "semi-custom" and they do shoot better than anything that I have been able to find "off the shelf" (save the old Horton Bone Collectors which unfortunately went bye bye when Horton went down the tubes).