Hunting Upland Game With a Bow

[Hi5]

Instead of tying the "D loop" to the main string, some kind of snaps would be nice. Then it sure would be easy to put on and take off. The snaps would need to be light so that they didn't wear the main string and have too much forward inertia. It would be best not to be metal so they didn't cause rail wear, or damage the limbs if they made contact with the limbs.

There must be some other attachment devices instead of snaps that would work....

There might be something here, by golly.

[shafferm]

Bunda62,
I have not seen a flu flu successfully implemented on the crossbow where it was able to quickly slow the arrow down fast enough from a full draw to make much of a difference on speed. If you know of where this has been successful on crossbows going over 300 fps please let us know how it was done and what they were able to get it down to speedwise.

Hank,
The amsteel would likely hold up pretty well as we are not pulling the bow to full draw and the pressure at the claws is considerably less.

Hi5,
I thought about the ease of install and if you have your stringing aid along with an ink pen I came up with a way to pretty rapidly install the D loop.

The first step is to use the stringing aid to take tension off of the string. Next you use the pen to divide the string into halves near the serving like so.


I tied three overhand knots in each end of the D loop and you can put the two ends through the string and then let the string back down to its usual spot by removing the stringing aid.


Here is what the string looks like with the D loop installed and cocked back.


I marked the starting point and end points of the main string and I am getting a power stroke down to around 5.5 inches.


The knots seem to work okay, although it might be a good idea to add a plastic washer between the D loop and the main string on each side to help lower the chances of having the D loop pull through the string.

[Hi5]

You've done some solid thinking there. Simple is best, and what you did was simple.

Have you done much shooting with the "D loop"? Is there satisfactory accuracy? Does it change the point of impact much?

[shafferm]

Have only tried about a dozen shots at close range without a scope on the bow to verify that it will cock back and fire consistently. Will need to put a scope on the test bow and see how it performs at longer distances. The longer the D loop means the slower the arrow is going to be and will have more drop. Might be a bit before I can get everything setup to try out. If you get a chance to try it out please let us know what your results are.

[Hi5]

I hope that others also do some testing. I think you are onto something.

I suppose that one concern would be to have serving that was exactly centered on the string. Or, it would have to be a short stretch of serving that didn't extend beyond either side of the rail.. From each side of the latch to where the loop was attached to the string would need to be exactly the same, I would think..

[racking up points]

Why not use Matrix limbs on that Micro riser and go with any of the small game point/tips suggested?

[Hi5]

Why not use Matrix limbs on that Micro riser and go with any of the small game point/tips suggested?

I don't know whether Matrix limbs would fit on the Micro riser. Would such a switch of limbs reduce arrow speed, and if so, by enough? I would GUESS we would want 75-100 feet per second.

[shafferm]

If we look at the power stroke numbers for the Micro 355 at 10 inches and the Matrix Sapphire is listed at 10.8" with a speed of 305 fps. Even with dropping the last .8" we are going to likely still be in the 250 to 300 fps range. Maybe even as low as 230 fps with the different versions of the riser geometry on the micros. Likely to still be going a bit too fast even if we did swap out the micro limbs with matrix limbs.

I remember in some of the very early videos starring Bill and Kath they recommended marking both sides of your serving with white out so that you could be sure you had pulled the bow back evenly. Could do the same on the main string and then you could see if you had pulled the bow back lopsided.

[Hi5]

I wonder if this type of fastener would work to clip a "D loop" onto the string? If it did it would surely make it easier to install and remove......

https://www.google.ca/search?q=hook++fasteners&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwii7IqDj9rWAhVi8IMKHWksAHYQ7AkIfg&biw=1097&bih=484#imgrc=ozz6m6qtNZTHnM:&spf=1507228354443

[shafferm]

Might be a possibility if the loop on the clip goes down small enough so that it cannot slide past the serving. The D loop is trying to get to the middle of the string when you pull it back. You do have quite a bit more mass to deal with if you are using a metal clip that you would need to be sure it is not hitting anything on the forward stroke when you fire the bow.

[MCA]

if you can keep the arrow from falling out or off track, great idea,
I see the need also to use crossbows for small game also. with cheap short bolts, perhaps homemade.

there is a lot of cheap 100-150 lbs Asian bows out there that shoot very good for this kind of small game hunting,

[hankenhunter]

Did you find that the served area tries to bunch up when cocking or sqeeeze the hooks together? I find this thread fascinating for some reason.
Hank

[hankenhunter]

if you can keep the arrow from falling out or off track, great idea,
I see the need also to use crossbows for small game also. with cheap short bolts, perhaps homemade.

there is a lot of cheap 100-150 lbs Asian bows out there that shoot very good for this kind of small game hunting,

I am thinking l wouldn't change arrow size so I can accomodate those wire snaro bird heads. Every other small head I've tried on grouse has cost me an arrow. Anyone have any experience with the looped wire heads?
Hank

[hankenhunter]

Also wondering if a arrow hold down extension would be needed.
Hank