Grohmann knives

[widowman]

I figured with all the Canadians here I could get some good first hand info on Grohmann knives.

Any info or input you could give me would be helpful.

Different models, steel and blade grind options.

Pros, Cons, personal experiences.

Thanks

[BOB VANDRISH]

I have an original design Russell Grohmann knife,but I have not used it much as I am a knife collector,and just leave them on display most of the time.
You picked a good time to look at a purchase,as they have just come out with a Limited Edition version of this knife,with Desert Ironwood handles.
They have also come out with what they call the flat blade version of the very same knife,and based on what use I have had with mine,I would tend to lean to a thinner blade.
They are available in a stainless/carbon blade,and just straight carbon steel.
You may encounter a bit more tendency to rust with the straight carbon,but that may also give you an easier edge to sharpen.
They are highly regarded by anyone I have ever talked to about them as an all round knife.
If you go to their website,they have a greater selection than when I bought mine,which was over 20 years ago.
Depending again on what you are looking for,they have anything you could ever want.

[hawg hunter]

Grohman knives are hard to come by in Texas. Anyone who has used one will tell you that they are one of the best made and handling knives you can buy. If you want one go to Knives Direct or check on Ebay. I have many knives and carry a grohman in my truck at all times. Ronnie

[BOB VANDRISH]

Widowman,go to ebay and check out "Russell Grohmann Knife" and there are two brand new ones at a great price,IMHO!

[TPM]

http://www.grohmannknives.com/pages/outdoor.html

http://search.ebay.ca/search/search.dll ... age=search

[widowman]

Thanks Bob, I actually have a couple that I am watching on eBay.

It would be nice to touch and hold them before a purchase. Does anyone know any stores that stock them around Maryland?

Also Bob, could you go into a little more detail about your opinion on the original vs. flat grind blades? I want to purchase the knife for whitetail hunting duties from field dressing, skinning, butchering and some lite camp/field jobs.

[TPM]

Also Bob, could you go into a little more detail about your opinion on the original vs. flat grind blades? I want to purchase the knife for whitetail hunting duties from field dressing, skinning, butchering and some lite camp/field jobs.

I'm a big fan of Grohmann knives. I've had a #1s for a few years and won't part with it. The #1 can handle all the jobs you mention above.
As for the new flat ground blades, well, I've never handled one of the Grohmanns but I have used other flat ground knives. Typically they are easier to sharpen but you do lose some blade thickness so often the edges are a little more delicate. Great for skinning or buthering but if you have to cut through joints or use the knife for any camp work that involves chopping I would stick with the standard grind.
I think you will be pleased if you buy one. I mentioned in a recent thread that I was never a fan until I actually handled and used one. I want to add a #2 and #3 to the collection someday.

http://www.excaliburcrossbow.com/phpBB2 ... 613d152b53

[BOB VANDRISH]

Widowman,here is a rundown of my experience with blade thickness on hunting knives.
My very first one was a Buck Personal,bought in 1954,and the blade was so thick and the steel was so hard that it was almost impossible to get an edge that would hold for any length of time.
We took the overall thickness down very carefully,and reworked the edge to approx 15-20 degrees,with lots of trials and tribulations with various stones to find combinations that would work and give reasonable life to the edge.
I start with a Horton Crystolon cutting stone to do the rapid shape change,moving to finer and finer stones,and now use a honing compound on a leather strop to do the final finish the edge.
My finished edges will shave the hair on your arm without any moisture present.
I did the very same thing to a Buck 112,and then a Buck 110,which is the one that I have used the most and the longest for deer hunting,doing almost all my skinning and deboning with the same knife.
On the Grohmann that I have,I took the edge back approx 1/8" to that same 15 degree bevel,and I have found that to be the very best edge angle on all the knives that I use.
That change makes a world of difference to the cutting capability of any knife.
If you would do that to a standard Grohmann knife,then the new thinner flat blade they have just introduced may not offer you much of an advantage,but I am the proponent that thinner is better for any and all cutting.
Just look at a butcher's knife,if you want an example of a good cutting profile.
I have rambled on long enough,and it all comes down to what I call your own personal touch or feel with the knife in action.
I do think that you will find that their knives are great value for the price.

[widowman]

Thanks Bob.

TPM thanks for the link.

For the reasonable prices on these knives I may have to try more than just the one.

[Brampton Mike]

I've owned the Survival and the Trout n Bird model for over 20 years and they are the best darned knives i've ever owned! Brampton Mike

[TPM]

Bob - Great info on sharping! You should run a side business. I know around here (Kitchener) it's hard to find some one who does a decent job on hunting knives. The guy I used to use is not in business any more.
I just might try what you suggested with my #1.

[Bucko]

After reading the post on the Grohmann knives I went to their site to pass a lil time and found the do-it-youself kit interesting.I enjoy tinkering and this would be right up my alley.

[BOB VANDRISH]

TPM,that idea of starting up a knife sharpening business might not be a bad idea!
It took a while to get there,mostly trial and error,and it comes down to that old adage of "you can only do with what you got,or you can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear!!
I must have at least 20 different stones,some using oil,and others with water,and the knife tells you what works best.
The steel in the blade governs what you end up with,and how long the edge will last for you,once it has been sharpened.
I have a $5 "Made in Pakistan" knife that I originally bought as a hacking around knife,and it has one of the best tempered steels,and holds an edge longer than most of the ones that I use for hunting.
One thing to never do is to use a razor sharp knife for anything but the purpose you bought it for in the first place,as there is nothing nicer than to have it do the job you want.
I go back to the comment I made about watching a butcher do his job-his knives are always sharp,and work like a dream.
That's the way they should all work!

[A.W]

I go back to the comment I made about watching a butcher do his job-his knives are always sharp,and work like a dream. That's the way they should all work!

Many years ago I was an apprentice butcher. I was taught never to make a boning knife razor sharp.

Boning meat requires numerous flicks of the wrist as well as sense of touch through the knife. The amount of pressure applied depends on the resistance felt.

If it's too sharp then it can dig into the bone. Too much pressure can cause the knife to jump when the bone gives way causing injuries to yourself.

Hope I explained this clear enough.

[VixChix]

Although I've sharpened knives, I have more experience in hand tuning skis. For skis a good edge, free of burrs is important - but knowing just how to "de-tune" is just as important, as an edge can be "hooky". I'm not advocating "de-tuning" knives, just commenting that there is such a thing as "too sharp".