I have only used carbon shafts but I think I would like to try Aluminum shafts.
What is best for Phoenix?? and is there much difference in flight/speed??
I only want to switch because of fears of Carbon breaking off inside, I figure the on longer shots with this bow I may not get a pass through and its possible for shaft to break when deer is running through bush or when it drops.
Any help on this topic would be great as I am new at this.
Thanks
Aluminum shafts
Moderator: Excalibur Marketing Dude
You could consider going with a 2213 arrow with a 100 gr head. Your total weight will come in at 388gr. Your min. arrow weight on that bow is 350 gr so your very close. If you want to reconsider going carbon the new Firebolt will come in at 385gr with a 100gr head. That would be a good choice as well.
I wouldn't worry about breakage. But I do like Aluminum shafts myself. There is no practical advantage to Aluminum or carbons. Aluminum is actually more straight than carbon but its hard to see the difference because the difference in straightness is a thou or two. Its more about personal preference.
Some people just like stepping on rakes
-
exocet200hunter
- Posts: 195
- Joined: Thu Aug 23, 2007 10:55 pm
- Location: Chatham-Kent ,Ontario
Folk Horn,
I as'well only use alum's in my x-bow, I do this for a couple of reasons
1) When tuning in a fixed broadhead and you can't get the BH to fly right due to an offset w/ fletching's you can alway's heat up the insert and twist it so your blades line up with your fletching's for a faster true'r spin on the bolt.
2) YES, they are straighter
3) They cost less $$$$
4) They come in various size's !!!
5) They are easier to maintain when going to re-fletch
The carbon's are stronger and probely do fly faster, but I rather get 12 bolt's than 6 for the same price, and if I wack one off a tree " o'well ", I have 11 more, and they are ready available @ almost every archery/sporting good store.
Thank's -Matt
I as'well only use alum's in my x-bow, I do this for a couple of reasons
1) When tuning in a fixed broadhead and you can't get the BH to fly right due to an offset w/ fletching's you can alway's heat up the insert and twist it so your blades line up with your fletching's for a faster true'r spin on the bolt.
2) YES, they are straighter
3) They cost less $$$$
4) They come in various size's !!!
5) They are easier to maintain when going to re-fletch
The carbon's are stronger and probely do fly faster, but I rather get 12 bolt's than 6 for the same price, and if I wack one off a tree " o'well ", I have 11 more, and they are ready available @ almost every archery/sporting good store.
Thank's -Matt
-
sumner4991
- Posts: 6989
- Joined: Thu Oct 19, 2006 12:16 pm
Fork Horn . . .most likely you will get a pass through, wait and see. I had a pass though from 25 yards that hit the hind quarter and exited the front quarter after glancing off the shoulder bone and the bolt still traveled another 20 yards before hitting a stump. The deer dropped in it's tracks.
I just would not make the change for the reason you stated. Both types of bolts will work equally good. The carbon breaking issue is a lame issue in my opinion. I've had .270 bullets break apart and end up all over the place . . .even found a piece of that bullet in a steak I was eating. I didn't stop using my .270. It was a fluke.
Now . . .trying out aluminums for the fun of it . . .that's a good reason!
I use carbons because they last far longer than aluminums. I have used both and the only thing I have against an aluminum bolt is, when hunting, I have never been able to shoot one twice. The carbons will go through your deer and be ready to go again, no problem.
I just would not make the change for the reason you stated. Both types of bolts will work equally good. The carbon breaking issue is a lame issue in my opinion. I've had .270 bullets break apart and end up all over the place . . .even found a piece of that bullet in a steak I was eating. I didn't stop using my .270. It was a fluke.
Now . . .trying out aluminums for the fun of it . . .that's a good reason!
I use carbons because they last far longer than aluminums. I have used both and the only thing I have against an aluminum bolt is, when hunting, I have never been able to shoot one twice. The carbons will go through your deer and be ready to go again, no problem.
I'd rather wear out than rust out.
Perception trumps intention.
2006 Exomax w/Agingcrossbower Custom Stock
20" Easton Powerbolts w/125gr Trophy Ridge Stricknines & 2"Blazers
Boo Custom Strings
2006 Vixen
Perception trumps intention.
2006 Exomax w/Agingcrossbower Custom Stock
20" Easton Powerbolts w/125gr Trophy Ridge Stricknines & 2"Blazers
Boo Custom Strings
2006 Vixen
Aluminum will give you a few more weight options, it depends on what you need. You could go 2213 ( lighter faster ) , 2216 ( a little slower , but shaft is more resistant to bending ) , or 2219 ( less speed again but more KE, and a bit quieter shot ) .
I tend to use 2216's /and/or Beman thunderbolts and have had good luck with both.
I tend to use 2216's /and/or Beman thunderbolts and have had good luck with both.
hi farmer one question according to your mentioned bemans:
i´m from europe
no archery stores around
and i´m thinking of importing 20 inch beman raw shafts (or beman arrows) from canada or the us.
i want to make my own carbon arrows.
could you recomend me a shop that ships to europe
and charges reasonable prices?
lisa
i´m from europe
no archery stores around
and i´m thinking of importing 20 inch beman raw shafts (or beman arrows) from canada or the us.
i want to make my own carbon arrows.
could you recomend me a shop that ships to europe
and charges reasonable prices?
lisa
I shoot Easton 2215s cut to 19" and fletched with 2" Blazers, tipped with 100 grain points. From my Phoenix they shoot just fine. The 2215s would have to be custom made, but since I make my own I can get them for the same price as any others. 
The reason for the odd shaft size & length is to come up with the minimum weight my Phoenix seems to prefer. With that combination I'm right at 380 grains total weight. That's about the minimum weight I've found to keep the bow smooth & quiet.
2216s would probably shoot just as good. 2213s are faster, but they are more easily damaged.
One thing I would highly recommend is Dan Miller's arrow puller if you will be shooting them into foam targets. I ruined several pulling them, before I bought a puller.
The reason for the odd shaft size & length is to come up with the minimum weight my Phoenix seems to prefer. With that combination I'm right at 380 grains total weight. That's about the minimum weight I've found to keep the bow smooth & quiet.2216s would probably shoot just as good. 2213s are faster, but they are more easily damaged.
One thing I would highly recommend is Dan Miller's arrow puller if you will be shooting them into foam targets. I ruined several pulling them, before I bought a puller.
wabi
What a great group!!!
I must say this group of guys is great.
I have received lots of feedback and info on my question and got some answers for a few other questions too.
Thanks to Shakky and the rest of you for the great ideas.
I think what I learned most was to just try what I think and see but I will use a few of the tips I received aswell. It sounds like most of us shot Carbon with a few execptions but all have good reasons for what they use.
I will switch my focus on to increasing speed and maintaining KE
Now I just have to figure out the deer....that might be easier
I have received lots of feedback and info on my question and got some answers for a few other questions too.
Thanks to Shakky and the rest of you for the great ideas.
I think what I learned most was to just try what I think and see but I will use a few of the tips I received aswell. It sounds like most of us shot Carbon with a few execptions but all have good reasons for what they use.
I will switch my focus on to increasing speed and maintaining KE
Now I just have to figure out the deer....that might be easier