sumner4991 wrote:crazyfarmer . . .I was ready to buy some rage broadheads until I encountered the O-ring issue with them. Is that a big deal or not? I have one here and it flew good the few times I shot it. I ran out of O-rings. Actually, the Scorpions flew like darts too. Never had one open prior to impact and I only used one O-ring.
I would kind of like to get away from bands and rings. However, with mechanicals, there's always something. I guess on these spring loaded heads . . .the springs could weaken and eventually get loose enough to open prior to impact. However, Innerloc claims over a thousand shots before that happens.
Maybe, I just need to tighten the blades a little more on the Spitfires . . .I'm still waiting on a response from NAP. I would have shot more , but, I figured 2 opened out of 6 shots . . .not good.
Would be nice to have a trouble free mechanical. Of course, the fixed broadheads have their issues too if you don't maintain them properly.
Challanges, challanges . . .
ANYONE USE THE INNERLOCS??
FYI...Iknow this is an old post, but wanted to share what I have learned over the years with these BH's(Spitfires):
1st off...the myth that Spitfire's ever fail to open is pure nonsense, although the issue with blades opening on the shot prematurely is very real, and more likely out of strong Excalibur crossbows which load the arrow very quickly. The issue is simply the acceleration is greater than the force which retains the blade in place...
This is due to several reasons:
1. Putting the spacer in backwards so dimple faces away from blade= minimal resistance.
2. Overtightening the blade screws too tight crushes the resistance dimple on these heads and almost guarantees the blades will open prematurely (especially on Excaliburs) each and every shot following this. Even if you back the screw off, the damage has been done as soon as the blade is closed.. Nothing more than tight enough that they don't back out easily...(I usually run screw into until I feel it contact/make 1st resistance and then go a 1/4 of turn).
4. Everyone knows you can resharpen blades....but you can also "reuse" or modify the retaining spacers by "redimpling" the resistance dimple with a small rounded punch, block of wood and a light tap from a tack hammer.
(This ensures they have the correct ressitance, and eliminates the issue).
NAP reccomends replacing these after every 4-5 shots...but remember that means every 4-5 times they are opened/closed...( I personally think that works for regular compounds, but not fast loading xbows..
I usually redimple all spacers when I assemble them and anytime the head gets opened I check them to ensure they still feel very hard to open w/ fingers..
5. Of course the other way to beat this is simply to use a single dental rubber band, and never have the issue again.
Great flying head..nothing better IMHO. Have to have some KE to shoot it so it's not for everyone despite it's accuracy...and if you are aware of the issues above should have a way to ensure the blades remain closed and accurate with how you tested them along side field points/practice blades..
I have shot these through paper tuning racks and duplicated issue and want to point out that the accuracy is about a 6 inch diff at 20 yds when all 3 come open... sometimes only 1 or 2 come open and then lookout:)
The dental elastics are the answer for any of the front lever action broadheads. The simple lever action type mechanicals only take 10 KE to open. We all have that much to waste. I'm not sure how much additional KE it takes to open the Spitfires or the Innerlocs . . .seems like the spring loaded or the cam loc heads would take more KE to open than a simple elastic. If anyone has that data, please share it.