Lumi Zone
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philipmaurice
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2007 3:18 pm
- Location: Quebec City, P.Q. - Canada
- Contact:
Lumi Zone
Hi Everyone,
I am a a first time user and just acquired an Equinox with a telescope (lumi zone).
I have never adjusted my telescope nor do I know how.. I am seeking for guidance with adjusting same for various distances.
Can someone help me with this ?
Thank-you
Phil
I am a a first time user and just acquired an Equinox with a telescope (lumi zone).
I have never adjusted my telescope nor do I know how.. I am seeking for guidance with adjusting same for various distances.
Can someone help me with this ?
Thank-you
Phil
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LondonDave
- Posts: 402
- Joined: Thu Oct 11, 2007 2:34 am
- Location: London, Ontario Canada
Have a look at this thread and also read the info in the link posted by pydpiper.
http://www.excaliburcrossbow.com/phpBB2 ... highlight=
Dave
http://www.excaliburcrossbow.com/phpBB2 ... highlight=
Dave
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Pydpiper
- Posts: 6148
- Joined: Thu Nov 30, 2006 4:56 pm
- Location: Woodstock, Brantford'ish, ON
- Contact:
First, pay no attention to the numbers on the scope, they are there for reference, not by any means accurate.
1st, level the scope properly, that is very important for shots beyond 20 yards.
Take a shot at the center of the target at 10 yards, if it is within 6 inches of where you aimed move back to 20 yards.
2nd, set your vertical at 20 yards, put a line on the target taller than 6" or so and shoot, pay no attention to your horizontal, just tune the scope to that line with your windage dial (right side of scope).
3rd, do the same thing with the horizontal now, put a horizontal line on the target and tune it in to that line, paying no attention to the vertical.
Now you should be inside an inch square from a shot now, at 20 yards. make sure that is true by doing multiple shots.
Once you know you are good at 20 yards move to 40. Set your scope speed dial to what you think you should be shooting, again aiming at the horizontal line (don't worry about vertical) and let one fly. If that arrow is high turn up the speed on the speed ring, if it is low, turn it down. Keep going until it is hitting the line.
You can now safely step back to 50 and try that shot again, the farther back you go in the scope checking for speed the more accurate the 30 and 40 are going to be.
Once the speed dial is set you can go back up to 30 and get a very good idea of how the set-up just went.
-Shooting from 10 is more of a precaution than anything when setting up, just to make sure the scope isn't so far off you miss your target.
-Keep an eye on your brace height, it will trick you into thinking your scope is off, this is especially important when using a new string.
I can clarify on any of this if you need..
Your arrow combination has nothing to do with the scope settings, as long as the arrows are consistent. If you switch arrows in any way you have to repeat this procedure, or what ever procedure you chose to use.
I use the same arrow combination as you, and am very happy with it.
1st, level the scope properly, that is very important for shots beyond 20 yards.
Take a shot at the center of the target at 10 yards, if it is within 6 inches of where you aimed move back to 20 yards.
2nd, set your vertical at 20 yards, put a line on the target taller than 6" or so and shoot, pay no attention to your horizontal, just tune the scope to that line with your windage dial (right side of scope).
3rd, do the same thing with the horizontal now, put a horizontal line on the target and tune it in to that line, paying no attention to the vertical.
Now you should be inside an inch square from a shot now, at 20 yards. make sure that is true by doing multiple shots.
Once you know you are good at 20 yards move to 40. Set your scope speed dial to what you think you should be shooting, again aiming at the horizontal line (don't worry about vertical) and let one fly. If that arrow is high turn up the speed on the speed ring, if it is low, turn it down. Keep going until it is hitting the line.
You can now safely step back to 50 and try that shot again, the farther back you go in the scope checking for speed the more accurate the 30 and 40 are going to be.
Once the speed dial is set you can go back up to 30 and get a very good idea of how the set-up just went.
-Shooting from 10 is more of a precaution than anything when setting up, just to make sure the scope isn't so far off you miss your target.
-Keep an eye on your brace height, it will trick you into thinking your scope is off, this is especially important when using a new string.
I can clarify on any of this if you need..
Your arrow combination has nothing to do with the scope settings, as long as the arrows are consistent. If you switch arrows in any way you have to repeat this procedure, or what ever procedure you chose to use.
I use the same arrow combination as you, and am very happy with it.
If you are not willing to learn, nobody can help you, if you are willing, nobody can stop you.
A bowhunter with a passion for shooting firearms.
WMU 91
Boo string
A bowhunter with a passion for shooting firearms.
WMU 91
Boo string
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LondonDave
- Posts: 402
- Joined: Thu Oct 11, 2007 2:34 am
- Location: London, Ontario Canada
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Pydpiper
- Posts: 6148
- Joined: Thu Nov 30, 2006 4:56 pm
- Location: Woodstock, Brantford'ish, ON
- Contact:
The goal is to keep your vertical crosshair perfectly up and down. The reason for this is that shots beyond 20 yards rely on the vertical line to stay true. If the scope is leaning one way or another the chevrons will be off axis while the arrow will follow the natural gravitational pull of the arrow..mercyfulfate wrote:How do you make sure the scope is centered other than just making a good guess?
-Easy way to check it is to eyeball it from your left eye to your right.
-Next easiest way is to hang a weight from a string (naturally perfect vertical drop) and level the bow on sandbags, level the riser and twist the scope to match the string..
Third way is to set a long level at a distance, level the bow on sandbags and level the horizontal crosshair to the distant level (appx. 20 yards or so).
If you are not willing to learn, nobody can help you, if you are willing, nobody can stop you.
A bowhunter with a passion for shooting firearms.
WMU 91
Boo string
A bowhunter with a passion for shooting firearms.
WMU 91
Boo string
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philipmaurice
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2007 3:18 pm
- Location: Quebec City, P.Q. - Canada
- Contact:
Lumi Zone adjusting
Hi Dave.
Thank-you for your rapid response & precious info.
Correct me if I am correct in my understanding.
If the telescope is set to bulls eye at the crosshair (20 yards) and I do get a bulls eye shot at 20 yards on the field then theoretically the shots at 10 , 30, 40 & 50 yard distances would also be bulls eye if perfectly aimed at using said figures within the scope.
Thank-you
Phil
Thank-you for your rapid response & precious info.
Correct me if I am correct in my understanding.
If the telescope is set to bulls eye at the crosshair (20 yards) and I do get a bulls eye shot at 20 yards on the field then theoretically the shots at 10 , 30, 40 & 50 yard distances would also be bulls eye if perfectly aimed at using said figures within the scope.
Thank-you
Phil
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Pydpiper
- Posts: 6148
- Joined: Thu Nov 30, 2006 4:56 pm
- Location: Woodstock, Brantford'ish, ON
- Contact:
Not automatically, no. You have to set the scope up two times, once for the crosshairs, then for the chevrons (the little distance triangles).
Your 20 yard crosshair is independent from the chevrons. The crosshair is set using the vertical and horizontal scope adjustments(under the caps), once that is set you will always be on at 20 yards regardless of what you do to that speed ring.
The chevrons have their own job and really have nothing to do with the crosshairs.
Once you have the crosshairs set up for 20 yards and the scope is level you can start on the speed ring with confidence.
Now, those chevrons need to be matched to your bow.. The 20 is set and anything you do to that speed ring will have zero effect on your pre set crosshairs.
Go to 30 yards and take a shot using the 30 yard chevron, adjust accordingly. If the arrow is hitting high then turn the speed up on the ring, if it is low, turn it down.
Once 30 is set up you are safe to go to 50 yards, you should be pretty close. Tune the 50 or 40 yard chevron in with your speed dial keeping in mind that the farther the shot you take while adjusting that ring the more accurate you arrows will be at closer ranges.
So.. If your 20 is good and your 50 is good everything in between will be good too.
That scope is simply a zoom scope.. If everything was 20 yards away (wouldn't that be nice..) then you could ignore the chevrons and use the speed ring as a zoom, that is all that it is. Once set up correctly that scope will be perfectly accurate at all ranges.
Shoot safe!
Your 20 yard crosshair is independent from the chevrons. The crosshair is set using the vertical and horizontal scope adjustments(under the caps), once that is set you will always be on at 20 yards regardless of what you do to that speed ring.
The chevrons have their own job and really have nothing to do with the crosshairs.
Once you have the crosshairs set up for 20 yards and the scope is level you can start on the speed ring with confidence.
Now, those chevrons need to be matched to your bow.. The 20 is set and anything you do to that speed ring will have zero effect on your pre set crosshairs.
Go to 30 yards and take a shot using the 30 yard chevron, adjust accordingly. If the arrow is hitting high then turn the speed up on the ring, if it is low, turn it down.
Once 30 is set up you are safe to go to 50 yards, you should be pretty close. Tune the 50 or 40 yard chevron in with your speed dial keeping in mind that the farther the shot you take while adjusting that ring the more accurate you arrows will be at closer ranges.
So.. If your 20 is good and your 50 is good everything in between will be good too.
That scope is simply a zoom scope.. If everything was 20 yards away (wouldn't that be nice..) then you could ignore the chevrons and use the speed ring as a zoom, that is all that it is. Once set up correctly that scope will be perfectly accurate at all ranges.
Shoot safe!
Last edited by Pydpiper on Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
If you are not willing to learn, nobody can help you, if you are willing, nobody can stop you.
A bowhunter with a passion for shooting firearms.
WMU 91
Boo string
A bowhunter with a passion for shooting firearms.
WMU 91
Boo string
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LondonDave
- Posts: 402
- Joined: Thu Oct 11, 2007 2:34 am
- Location: London, Ontario Canada
Phil,
You need to sight it in for a bullseye at 20 yards as pydpiper descrbes and them move back to 40 yards and set the distance with the speed ring. With the speed ring you're just concerned about the horizontal because what you're setting is how much the arrow will drop at those distances by zooming the scope in or out.
Once you have have it set so you are hitting that horizontal line at 40 yards (after setting for horizontal and vertical at 20 yards) then you will be hitting the bullseye at any distance by putting the correct yardage "chevron" on your intended target.
Re-read what pydpiper posted and follow the steps and you'll be golden.
Dave
You need to sight it in for a bullseye at 20 yards as pydpiper descrbes and them move back to 40 yards and set the distance with the speed ring. With the speed ring you're just concerned about the horizontal because what you're setting is how much the arrow will drop at those distances by zooming the scope in or out.
Once you have have it set so you are hitting that horizontal line at 40 yards (after setting for horizontal and vertical at 20 yards) then you will be hitting the bullseye at any distance by putting the correct yardage "chevron" on your intended target.
Re-read what pydpiper posted and follow the steps and you'll be golden.
Dave
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raydaughety
- Posts: 2411
- Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2003 11:32 am
- Location: North Carolina
Ray, it's not as complicated as it sounds!raydaughety wrote:I was about to order a Lumi Zone but it sounds a bit complicated to me as I have memory retention problems.![]()
God Bless,
1. mount scope properly [needed w/ any scope]
2. sight in at 20 yds [ditto]
3. set speed ring w/ 40 yd chevron
4. go hunting, lol
All you have to remember is each chevron [3 of them] are for another 10 yds.
"Eze 18:21"
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raydaughety
- Posts: 2411
- Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2003 11:32 am
- Location: North Carolina
plumb bob, bubble level..........
I just don't get it. If I decide to buy one, I'll have to send it to Dan and have it installed. I know you all think I'm stupid but I've had a lot of meds pass through this brain since my injury. Suffering from serous memory issues and have a hard time catching on to even the simplest of things
. Sucks.
God Bless !!!!!!!!!
Ray
Ray
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Pydpiper
- Posts: 6148
- Joined: Thu Nov 30, 2006 4:56 pm
- Location: Woodstock, Brantford'ish, ON
- Contact:
How about some visuals.
Here is a small dollar store level on my riser, the bow is supported by odd old rags and left alone once the level is "level".

Then I take a bigger level and put it at a distance (actual distance is irrelevant).. This is where some guys align to the vertical line with a string, probably easier.

Then I look through the scope knowing the bow is level and turn the scope until my crosshairs are even with the distant level.

Then, more times than not, I use my 20 yard pin instead of the 30 yard pin and drive an arrow clean through my level..
I have shot that poor level more times than it deserves.

When it is all done you can do this at 50 yards, every time. (this was all done from bench shooting of course)

I have every step on film, just holler if you need clarification on anything. It is a terribly easy process but in writing it can seem a bit tedious..
Here is a small dollar store level on my riser, the bow is supported by odd old rags and left alone once the level is "level".

Then I take a bigger level and put it at a distance (actual distance is irrelevant).. This is where some guys align to the vertical line with a string, probably easier.

Then I look through the scope knowing the bow is level and turn the scope until my crosshairs are even with the distant level.

Then, more times than not, I use my 20 yard pin instead of the 30 yard pin and drive an arrow clean through my level..

When it is all done you can do this at 50 yards, every time. (this was all done from bench shooting of course)

I have every step on film, just holler if you need clarification on anything. It is a terribly easy process but in writing it can seem a bit tedious..
If you are not willing to learn, nobody can help you, if you are willing, nobody can stop you.
A bowhunter with a passion for shooting firearms.
WMU 91
Boo string
A bowhunter with a passion for shooting firearms.
WMU 91
Boo string