How to tune broadheads

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cholafxsti
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How to tune broadheads

Post by cholafxsti »

How do you tune broadheads? Slick Trick is what I am using. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have a co-worker who claims he can tune them but he is a known liar and I'd rather do it myself. Thanks
Chola
sumner4991
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Re: How to tune broadheads

Post by sumner4991 »

cholafxsti wrote:How do you tune broadheads? Slick Trick is what I am using. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have a co-worker who claims he can tune them but he is a known liar and I'd rather do it myself. Thanks
Are they not flying straight? Are they high, low, left, right?
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warningshot
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Post by warningshot »

f.o.c
check for wobble
align the fletching wit the broadhead blades
Rich
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Post by Rich »

I don't use Slick Tricks, but others have mentioned about turning the washer until they are wobble free and fly exactly as field points. I'm sure someone who has done it will elaborate more.

Rich
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cholafxsti
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Post by cholafxsti »

I haven't shot them yet. I thought it best to tune them first. Do people use rubber o-rings to help keep blades and vanes lined up?
Chola
Cossack
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Post by Cossack »

Not having any problems with mine. But I shoot high FOC arrow with small vanes. Namely GT Lazer II with 110 gr brass inserts and 2" Blazers. 100 gr slicks give FOC 18%, 125s = 20%
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wabi
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Post by wabi »

I usually just put the broadheads on the arrow and spin it to check for alignment (see if there is any obvious "wobble"). If all seems good I shoot it and see how it flies.
If it flies good, I'm done with the tuning! :lol:

After 40+ years of bowhunting I have adopted a KISS policy. You can spend hours with small details, but it all comes down to actual arrow flight. If the arrow flies in a straight path and hits where it's supposed to, why worry about all those little details? They apparently weren't too important, or it wouldn't be flying so well. :wink:
wabi
awshucks
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Post by awshucks »

I shoot Slicks and to 'tune' them, you spin them. Believe it or not, that little washer that goes on after the blades is how you do it. It takes patience because you loosen the head and spin the washer, retighten, re check, possibly over and over.

I'm of the opinion lining the blades up w/ the vanes is hooey. Nearly impossible w/ a 4 blade head like the Slicks and 3 vanes anyhow, lol.

I converted an old arrow staightener w/ a dial indicator and found some of my bheads had .012-.015" run out. Those didn't shoot well at all, and I got suckered in by only checking the first few which were good.

Those washers are perfectly flat too, btw, and I've several years experience as a machinist/tool and die maker apprentice. It defies logic, but does work.
"Eze 18:21"
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Boo
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Post by Boo »

You can give yourself an advantage by using an ASD. Most inserts are not very square which is why broadheads that do not seat directly on the flat surface install without a wobble. Good examples are the Magnus Stingers.
http://www.g5outdoors.com/#sec_asdtool It is not very expensive, lasts a long time and does a good job of squaring the face of the arrow insert.
I have one that someone in this forum has in his possession. You just have to find it and ask for it.
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bob1961
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Post by bob1961 »

i made myself a bearing roller from 1.5" alum L-channel to spin check my BH's....i use the 125 tricks with no problems out to 50 yards with 2" blazers set straight with 550gr 2117 XX75 with 21% FOC.............bob

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gad
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Post by gad »

I don´t know if I am just a lucky guy (well, everytime I look at my wife´s look I am sure I am a lucky one... :P )
but, always when I just squared the shafts end, and got sure that the broadhead does not woble, and on the shafts I am using the original 5" inches vanes, with some offset, my excaliburs shoot great with any broadhead. (any = wasps or slick tricks or crimson talons).
I'm all for gun control. To me, gun control is putting 2 bullets in the same hole... UNCLE TED
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