Nothing but string problems

spaerorob · Post by **spaerorob** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 2:35 am

I got 50-60 shots from a excalibur dacron string, 1 of the strings became loose continued to use it say 10 shots then another 2 became loose. Realized ok time to change string, Blackstump the only other aussie from western australia on forum being the absolute champion he is, Grabed me a flemish string from the only place in western australia that sells excalibur gear (Mandurah archery for me about a 3 hour around trip) and coming down to perth droped in for a beer and to help me put it on . We loaded it with string loading device, wound string and as soon as we put tension on 1 loop at limb tip just came of and string completely was unraveled left with just the 2 strands , no breakage so should be abble to rewind it . Is it me or just bad luck and if any one nows of a site that explains how to do the loops at the end would much appreciate it , any help would be great THANKS>

vixenmaster · Post by **vixenmaster** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 6:54 am

Utube has some video clips shows how to make flemish string also reserving string. thats very quick fer string to break 2 strands but not wear serving out 1st.

Stash · Post by **Stash** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 7:18 am

You should be getting hundreds of shots out of an Excalibur factory string.

Sounds like you're either not twisting the string, or in the case of the Flemish, twisting it the wrong way.

Stock dacron strings need to be twisted several times counter-clockwise (when looking from the end towards the middle). This will keep all the strands together and make it impossible for single strands to come loose and get damaged.

Flemish strings need to have a lot of twists in the same direction they are already twisted.

And you need LOTS of wax or lube on the serving and rail.

BigDogKahuna · Post by **BigDogKahuna** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 7:38 am

Stash wrote:You should be getting hundreds of shots out of an Excalibur factory string.

Sounds like you're either not twisting the string, or in the case of the Flemish, twisting it the wrong way.

Stock dacron strings need to be twisted several times counter-clockwise (when looking from the end towards the middle). This will keep all the strands together and make it impossible for single strands to come loose and get damaged.

Flemish strings need to have a lot of twists in the same direction they are already twisted.

And you need LOTS of wax or lube on the serving and rail.

I am not trying to be smart ass here but which end are you talking about with the Dacron string. If I stand on the right side end of the bow and twist counter clock wise it would actually look like I was twisting clockwise if I was on the left side of the bow and vica versa. Am I making any sense here?

Do you twist from the end of the string or twist from the serving and then the end?

Do you twist just tight enough to set the string at the proper brace height?

Thanks!

Pydpiper · Post by **Pydpiper** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 7:45 am

Easiest way is to grab the serving with both hands and gently twist it it in both directions, one way will tighten the serving, the other way will loosen it.
Once you establish which way tightens it keep going, that is the direction you want to twist your string.

sumner4991 · Post by **sumner4991** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 8:58 am

Pydpiper wrote:Easiest way is to grab the serving with both hands and gently twist it it in both directions, one way will tighten the serving, the other way will loosen it.
Once you establish which way tightens it keep going, that is the direction you want to twist your string.

That's really the only way. The serving can be wound left handed or right handed.

I still think your problem was your string hitting the riser. You need to back the brace height up until it is not hitting . . .even if that is beyond the line. The other solution is to add a STS system which will stop your string well before it hits the riser.

If the flemish string is also made with dacron, then you are likely to have the same issue(string hitting riser). The dacron string stretches more than other materials . . .it's more like a rubberband.

Good luck mate.

ComfyBear · Post by **ComfyBear** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 10:29 am

Stash wrote:Stock dacron strings need to be twisted several times counter-clockwise (when looking from the end towards the middle).

You're absolutely correct. Actually with either a endless loop or flemish twist string, whether the string is twisted from the left side or the right side of the bow, when looking from the limb tip towards the middle, twisting the string counter-clockwise will tighten (i.e. shorten) the string.

Sumner wrote:The serving can be wound left handed or right handed.

Scott, there's only one correct way to serve a string, and still ensure that the serving will tighten when the string is tighten. You're correct in saying that the serving can be applied from left to right or from right to left. As string-makers, Boo and I are prime examples of that. I use the former, while Boo uses the latter method. Both methods are correct as long as the serving is wound in the the proper direction vis-a-vis the string.

The correct method is to wind the serving clockwise when looking from one loop (either left or right one) towards the opposite loop. Since the string should be twisted counter-clockwise, using the above method will ensure that the serving will tighten as the string is tighten/shortened.

Of course, I have seen some strings which had the serving applied incorrectly. To determine if the serving has been applied correctly, remove it from the bow and hold the serving with both hands using your thumb and index fingers. While doing so, twist your right hand counter-clockwise. The serving should tighten if it was applied correctly.

If you're unfortunate to have a string that was served incorrectly, the only way to ensure a tight serving is to first adjust the brace height by twisting the string, then remove the string and twist and tighten the serving using Pydpiper's method. Once the serving is tight, you can put the string back on the bow.

saxman · Post by **saxman** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 12:44 pm

sumner4991 wrote:
Pydpiper wrote:Easiest way is to grab the serving with both hands and gently twist it it in both directions, one way will tighten the serving, the other way will loosen it.
Once you establish which way tightens it keep going, that is the direction you want to twist your string.

That's really the only way. The serving can be wound left handed or right handed.

I still think your problem was your string hitting the riser. You need to back the brace height up until it is not hitting . . .even if that is beyond the line. The other solution is to add a STS system which will stop your string well before it hits the riser.

If the flemish string is also made with dacron, then you are likely to have the same issue(string hitting riser). The dacron string stretches more than other materials . . .it's more like a rubberband.

Good luck mate.

If your string is hitting the riser it will greatly reduce the number of shots you get.
Check that brace height often.

Phoenix_Tom · Post by **Phoenix_Tom** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 12:58 pm

I had the same thing happen on a brand new Flemish string the first time I put one on. I thought I knew better and didn't need to read the instructions. I thought I was being smart by waxing the new string before putting it on. Then it completely unraveled as soon as I put it on. The wax may have helped that. Then I looked at the instructions that clearly say "DO NOT LET THE STRING LOOSEN UP BEFORE PUTTING IT ON" or words to that effect. While waxing I must have let it loosen up. I tried, without success, to put the string back together. I chalked this up to a learning experience and got a new Flemish string and put it on right out of the box, tightening as required, then waxing it. The next day I tightened again since it had stretched. Then I shot about 50 arrows through it. I checked the brace height later and it had stretched below the bottom line again. Does the FFF string ever stop stretching?

vixenmaster · Post by **vixenmaster** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 3:55 pm

i don't think so, after 3 yrs on one its still creeping right along

Phoenix_Tom · Post by **Phoenix_Tom** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 4:41 pm

smokepolehall wrote:i don't think so, after 3 yrs on one its still creeping right along

Thanks. That's good to know. I'll have to make a habit of checking before going out hunting since I generally leave the stringer at the camp. I'm sure the creeping must lessen after the initial major stretching though.

Strikenmike · Post by **Strikenmike** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 1:50 pm

Greetings: I need to jump in on this general subject. I am also fussing with my string too much in my opinion. Someone mentioned on one of the threads that the riser may be higher than the rail. If that is true what can be done to level those surfaces? I am shooting FFF strings with STS string protection. I also apply a second layer of serving just wide enough to cover the distance between the two rubber stoppers on the STS.

awshucks · Post by **awshucks** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 2:10 pm

Strikenmike wrote:Greetings: I need to jump in on this general subject. I am also fussing with my string too much in my opinion. Someone mentioned on one of the threads that the riser may be higher than the rail. If that is true what can be done to level those surfaces? I am shooting FFF strings with STS string protection. I also apply a second layer of serving just wide enough to cover the distance between the two rubber stoppers on the STS.

Here's a FFF tip. When you put a new one on the bow. add twists until it sits about 3/8" above the high line. Shoot it or let it sit cocked overnight a time or two. This will help get the stretchies out of them, speeds the process up some and won't hurt them or the bow.

vixenmaster · Post by **vixenmaster** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 4:55 pm

Strikenmike, the double layer center serving isn't a good idea as it raises string higher above a rail that has a certain amount of downforce designed into it fer the flat rear noks. i am not a string maker yet, just my opinion. riser above rail deck, you would know quick fast & in a hurry as the complete bottom of center serving would be worn & fuzzed out badly

Strikenmike · Post by **Strikenmike** » Mon Oct 05, 2009 6:46 pm

I looked at my riser. It seems level with the rail so that is not the problem. Besides with the STS or similar system, the string can not possibly reach the riser edge.

smokepolehall, my Phoenix shoots tight groups out to 50 yards so I am not sure my double center serving is causing any problem with accuracy. It does seem to separate a bit, when under stress. It seems that would just be less stress on the main serving. I don't know. I don't remember ever thinking about my string on my compound. Change it ever 3 seasons and that was it. Now I spend most of my time fussing with strings, servings, etc. That is once I have my custom arrows the way I want them. If Bambi would just cooperate with me, I would probably be in a better mood.