Arrows & BH's

[vixenmaster]

I see where ppl on here have trouble all the time with arrows & diff BH's! I have my vixen shooting decent & i can use a GT II or 22116 or 2219 & shoot every 100 gr BH i have on hand & all will hit hit with-in 1" of each other out to 40 yds! Example i have been using my GT II with alum. front insert, had 1 dz of them now down to 9. I have used Spitfire & Montec Striker Mag. & Montec G5 & 3 tick toters & 1 Yote have been given dirt naps. I have those 3 BH's in my quiver & i just get an arrow out of my quiver load miss vixen in the dark using no light & kill whatever shows up i want dead! All of this BH isn't any good or that one is the best that came down the pike! Its all about learning yer CB & arrows.

[sumner4991]

You just read my mind.

[bob1961]

yup or make arrows that fly great from your CB ........bob

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[dlm]

Yup, bud
I like what you say!
Experiment--- I've been using 22" carbon with moon nocks and Fusion vanes, and am having great accuracy.
Also adopted Excalibur's "un-cocking" the crossbow with the cocking rope and cannot believe how easy the process is!
Experiment, Fellows,
dlm

[bkisel]

Hi,

Just so I understand... Are you saying that all your broadheads regardless of type/brand hit within 1" of each other out to 40 yards or that for a given a broadhead type you get the 1" group? Personally I've found the latter to be true but not the former at least not with my 100 grain 3 blade Muzzy's vs. my 100 grain Grim Reapers.

BTW, the Grim Reapers group with my field tips but the Muzzy's do not.

Thanks

[sumner4991]

I think it is more of an issue of being consistant in building the arrow. Starting with a straight shaft, even amounts of glue, same fletchings, same offset, same weight . . .consistancy. When you add the broadhead, the only thing that makes a difference in flight, that you can control, is making sure it's on straight, no wobble anywhere.

If the broadhead doesn't fly straight then it's probably a quality control issue with the broadhead.

I have no problem shooting Spitfires, Slick Tricks, Wasp boss, Hammerheads, Scorpions, or Wasp Jackhammers. I've had quality issues with a couple of these. However, I've been through the learning curve with each of these broadheads.

It isn't easy to determine if the blades have gotten bent enough to alter the broadhead's flight until after the shot. That is a big concern for me when using a fixed blade. I use new blades on my hunting arrows.

I don't shoot the broadheads into targets anymore. That's just expensive and it probably does more damage than good . . .for me. However, I've destroyed two blocks and a couple of cheap Walmart targets getting to know my broadheads/arrows. I have a system of building arrows and adding broadheads that works for me and my Exomax/Vixen.

I can tell you what works for me . . .however, unless I'm building the arrows and adding the broadhead, then my set-up may not work for you.

If you want to see if your system is good, then build the fastest arrow and put a large profile fixed blade on it. If it flies straight, then you are good enough to shoot anything you build.

[masboy]

i t got the right arrows super slams shoot every head iv,e shot exellent went out today to check o shot three muzzy 4 blades 50 yards under 1inch group ready for deer. good luck gt11 spects and grouping ,wt.to far off for me.

[wabi]

Took me quite a bit of time and a lot of $ spent for new stuff I didn't really need to figure it out.

Just because a certain arrow/broadhead combination works for other people it doesn't guarantee it will work for you.

I used to read the posts and think I should try everything that came along. Some worked as advertised, some didn't.

Now I'm happy just reading the reports on the broadheads and reading about all the modifications to arrows to improve performance, then going out and hunting with the same old arrows (2215 aluminums w/plain old inexpensive aluminum inserts) and the same old broadheads (Wac'Em Exits) I've been using for 3 or 4 years now.

I haven't kept records of the kill totals, but that combination has put down several deer for me. I can remember only one lost deer with them, and that was because of a scope failure that caused me to make a bad hit. (I think it hit the shoulder joint - it didn't penetrate and the deer was able to run off leaving NO BLOOD TRAIL at all.)


When you find what works for you - stick with it as long as it keeps working.

[strum]

i have to agree about learning tyour cbow set up ..im still on a learning curve but i took dan millers advice and have some botcutters on the way..im sure there is much better bolts and heads but for now thats where im at and ill be biulding some arrows and working with some heads soon..
working on backstrap now..hope the b cutters will get me in the game..

[wabi]

i have to agree about learning tyour cbow set up ..im still on a learning curve but i took dan millers advice and have some botcutters on the way..im sure there is much better bolts and heads but for now thats where im at and ill be biulding some arrows and working with some heads soon..
working on backstrap now..hope the b cutters will get me in the game..

As long as the blades are sharp and the arrow hits right where you are aiming it will do the job if you do your part and make a good shot.
A big part of it (for me at least) is learning to understand deer anatomy, then figuring out where to aim on a live 3-D target to get the broadhead through both lungs or the heart.

I can't help but get tickled when I read some of the shot descriptions or see some of the kill pics posted. A great hit sometimes looks very bad on the surface (the entry or exit hole in the deer), but sometimes that's whats necessary to get the broadhead through the vitals. I've put an arrow in behind the diaphragm and way high on a deer standing 3 yards from the ladder on a 15' high stand and quartered away from me to take out both lungs. Looked like a terrible hit in the pics, but that deer went less than 30 yards, stopped, and just collapsed right there in plain sight while I watched.

As long as you can put the broadhead where it needs to go, most any of them will do the job.

[strum]

i have to agree about learning tyour cbow set up ..im still on a learning curve but i took dan millers advice and have some botcutters on the way..im sure there is much better bolts and heads but for now thats where im at and ill be biulding some arrows and working with some heads soon..
working on backstrap now..hope the b cutters will get me in the game..

As long as the blades are sharp and the arrow hits right where you are aiming it will do the job if you do your part and make a good shot.
A big part of it (for me at least) is learning to understand deer anatomy, then figuring out where to aim on a live 3-D target to get the broadhead through both lungs or the heart.

I can't help but get tickled when I read some of the shot descriptions or see some of the kill pics posted. A great hit sometimes looks very bad on the surface (the entry or exit hole in the deer), but sometimes that's whats necessary to get the broadhead through the vitals. I've put an arrow in behind the diaphragm and way high on a deer standing 3 yards from the ladder on a 15' high stand and quartered away from me to take out both lungs. Looked like a terrible hit in the pics, but that deer went less than 30 yards, stopped, and just collapsed right there in plain sight while I watched.

As long as you can put the broadhead where it needs to go, most any of them will do the job.

what i meant in the bolts and heads ..is i know that the guys that make thier own put a lot of attention and love in making their own pesonalized arrow and finding a head that they feel completly confidant with ,,
im sure the firebolt boltcutter combo is a good set..and ill be killing some deers with em ..theres just somthing magic about putting your own bolt together and nowing it flew into an animal and put meat in the freezer..
since this is my first season with cbows i haven attempted it yet ..i did refletch one and killed two deer with the same bolt..but i have made many many arrows for compounds and have taken my fair share,,with them,,

[bob1961]

it's more then just what type of arrows and BH's but also the other componets that went into said arrows....like the other threads i have posted my arrow componets in i have reduced as much weight off the rear of my arrows as i could....i might be able to hack 3 or 4 more grains off my nocks but it's a mute point at that small of weight to gain any more advantage that i have now....after hunting seasons are over i'm gonna see what 25 and 50 grains off the front will do to gain a few FPS from what my arrows are traveling now....i know i'll drop to bout 20% FOC from my 21.6 now, but i'll still have plenty of whomp to my arrows .........bob

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[bob1961]

thx, yeah i've been hunting since 1982 ....not a lot of deer only 53 with only 7 by gun/flintlock the rest by arrows with only two from in the trees.......bob

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[vixenmaster]

bkisel, yes. I can have 4 diff Bh's in my quiver but all weight the same total arrow weight. Every one of them will hit with-in a 2" circle at 40 yds. Just say my spitfire hits dead-center then my montec hits 1" off to 2 o'clock them my slick trick hits 1" off at 9 o'clock. Every one of them will hit that 2" circle, i don't have to even look to see what BH is on the arrow. I just load it in the dark & shoot any game that comes by i want to kill. It comes with many yrs of fooling with these arrows

[redeye]

I shot some shuttle T's today and they didn't shoot near as well as rage 2 blade.Boltcutters shoot good but don't make big hole.Wish I hadn't wasted money on the shuttle T's.Think I'm going to stick with rage,2 inch groups at 40 yards.