This topic has probably been done to death, but I'm going to ask anyway.
What set up would you recommend for someone starting to build their own arrows?
I'm leaning toward aluminum rather than carbon shafts and being able to easily repair damaged fletching is a desired feature.
Thanks for any and all advise offered,
cheers,
David
P.S. Just joined the "dry fire club", fortunately no damage to the Ibex nor me.
dwilley wrote:This topic has probably been done to death, but I'm going to ask anyway.
What set up would you recommend for someone starting to build their own arrows?
I'm leaning toward aluminum rather than carbon shafts and being able to easily repair damaged fletching is a desired feature.
Thanks for any and all advise offered,
cheers,
David
P.S. Just joined the "dry fire club", fortunately no damage to the Ibex nor me.
I've just started building my own xbow arrows too and I decided to go with aluminum. I did a ton of reading on here and elsewhere about alum vs carbon and I think it's a more personal preference thing than anything else. Carbons are all the rage right now but what the heck.
I guess the main reason is because I'm an old vbow shooter and have built hundreds of aluminum arrows using 5" feathers. Aluminum what I'm most comfortable with because I have zero experience with carbons. I have already fletched some 2114 and 2216 arrows that I had saved from years ago with 2" & 3" vanes just to try them. I also have some 3" feathers and 2117 shafts on the way that I'm going to build too.
A lot has changed since I was building them years ago. Now there are hundreds of different vanes, feathers, inserts, weights, nocks, glues and everything else. Even though I already had a Martin jig I ordered an AZ EZ Fletch. That thing and Super Glue are the greatest things ever. You can turn out some very good arrows in a hurry.
houser52 wrote:I ordered an AZ EZ Fletch. That thing and Super Glue are the greatest things ever. You can turn out some very good arrows in a hurry.
I agree . . .especially for quick fix jobs. I might want something better if I were doing a lot of arrows, but, the AZEZ is relatively cheap and does a great job. I do a lot of repair, but, found I only do a complete set of arrows every other year or so.
I'd rather wear out than rust out.
Perception trumps intention.
Just joined forum, am looking forward to pinwheeling some Florida Hogs as soon as I get a few things sorted out on arrows.
I too am an old vertical shooter who loved to build his own arrows and tinker with his setup.
I prefer carbon, but that being said, what are all the components for the "inside" of the arrow? For instance I love Blazers and can fletch them easily.
But the flat nock on the back... where do you get that??
And inserts... what kind and where?
Should I use 125/150 broadheads?
I think I will be using Easton Powerbolts unless someone has a better carbon.
Thanks in advance.
If you purchase Gold Tip Shafts they come with brass inserts and nocks.They are far superior over powerbolts. And if you use a Steel force Cyanoacrylate glue you wont have to worry about refletching vanes. or inserts or nocks.
I like the 2216 XX78 superslam aluminum arrow shafts by Easton. I use the 2" blazers. There is also a 2216 flat ended luminok
that fits these arrows beautifully if you so desire, and care to use lighted nocks. I also have found the latest version of
gorilla super glue to be excellent. This is the bottle with the blue top, and the impact formula. The Arizona EZ fletch has
served me well for both aluminum and carbon arrows.
MJS
I would like to live like a river flows
Surprised by its own unfolding.
(John O'Donohue)
I like the Gold tips too. Their arrow shafts come complete with brass or aluminum inserts, as preferred, and aluminum nocks flat or moon. With four grades of weight and spine to choose from they have the most discriminating wants covered.
Another vote for Gorilla cyanoacralate glue. It's latex fortified so won't crack over time like some of the bow brand 'crazy glues.'
Lots of info here, i do build alum.arrows but not as many as i used to. I mainly build them heavy to go through anything i shoot. Which is very rough on my bag targets, doesn't take long til they pass-through the bag. I like Fusion vanes & i have few dz blasers in a pack on my bench/shelf. I cut off front inserts to 1/4-3/8" chamfer the edge used them as rear noks/cap. Here i have a 50/50 chance on ruining every arrow i shoot at game because of all my adorable rocks. 2216 is my choice. If using no other weight inside shaft i prefer 125 gr pts/BH's fer the wee bit of extra FOC
I've been making my own for a few years. I too use the Goldtips, blazer vanes. As of now, I've used Goat Tuff glue but last season, had what I thought was too many vanes coming off. Some came off on pass throughs and some would come off if bent to the side. I'm going to use another brand of glue before season and refletch all my bolts. As of now, I'm leaning towards Gorilla glue as I hear alot of guys on the forum use it.
Vortex
Gold Tip Laser II's
Slick Trick Broadheads
Viper X String
Groundpounder Mount
STS
Lumi-Zone
