Cocking mechanism doesn't work after dryfire

[Tee]

I'm with Strum on this, should not lock up, or break from a dry fire. Get us a good side view picture as large as possible, I think the puzzle needs one more piece here.

No digital camera. So unable to post pics. Shooting a whole roll of film just for 2 or 3 pics doesn't seem reasonable.

[Tee]

I am curious what is a accidental dryfire ? Either its a full dryfire or a partcial ?

Accidental dryfire - I was using the rope cocking aid. Had the bow string within less than a 1/4" of latching when the rope broke.

Hence, full, accidental dry fire.

In fact, I think the latching mechanism may have been partially or fully pushed up, but not back down holding the bow string. With the latching mechanism fully or partially up, there may have been some mechanism for disconnecting the trigger from the latching mechanism when the dry fire occured. I know the dry fire was pretty violent.

I had a dry fire once before and this one was much, much more violent. Broke the serving string.

I'm going to redo the serving string. I have some dyneema string, would that work?

[Tee]

I've got the scope off. Don't think I have to remove the bow itself. I will take the stock off today to get a better look inside.

Will post about what I see. Sorry, unable to get pics - still no digital camera.

[_woods]

If you pull the trigger assembly apart, do it slow and watch out for the spring loaded jesus-ball. Lose that and you're SOL...

[vixenmaster]

I am curious what is a accidental dryfire ? Either its a full dryfire or a partcial ?

Accidental dryfire - I was using the rope cocking aid. Had the bow string within less than a 1/4" of latching when the rope broke.

Hence, full, accidental dry fire.

In fact, I think the latching mechanism may have been partially or fully pushed up, but not back down holding the bow string. With the latching mechanism fully or partially up, there may have been some mechanism for disconnecting the trigger from the latching mechanism when the dry fire occured. I know the dry fire was pretty violent.

I had a dry fire once before and this one was much, much more violent. Broke the serving string.

I'm going to redo the serving string. I have some dyneema string, would that work?

So yer sayin an Excal rope cockers rope broke & caused this dryfire! This isn't a dryfire at all as the trigger never gotstid cocked! So whats really goin on here? Send it to Danny Miller fer warranty

[Allan]

Is the trigger still spring loaded or when you pull it, does it stay where ever you stop pulling?

[Tee]

Okay - took it apart. Took the bow off the rail (?) since that made it easier handling the thing. Then removed the stock. Then removed the trigger mechanism from the rail.

Not what I expected. A solid block with the mechanism inside. Didn't want to take it further apart.

In examining it I noticed that it wasn't cocked. So I used a 1/4" stake to simulate the bow string and tried cocking it.

It cocked fine and the trigger then worked and released it. Repeated many times to assure that it was working outside the rail.

Replaced the mechanism in the rail and reassembled the crossbow.

Again, used the stake to cock it and the trigger to release it. Worked fine that way.

Maybe something got stuck in the mechanism and the disassembly freed things up???

Only took about 1/2 hour to disassemble, test and re-assemble. Much quicker than I thought it would take.

Now to replace the serving on the bow string and replace the rope on the cocking aid. As far as the warranty, I doubt it would still be in effect since it has been quite a few years. Don't know why it broke, No discernable wear or fraying of the rope, either before or after it broke. It broke right at the knot inside the handle. In the future, I'll pull the rope out of the handle at least once a year to check the knot. When rope breaks, it almost always does so right at the entry to a knot. Which makes it very hard to check it out.

[robertyb]

Your Excal has a LIFETIME warranty.

[Cossack]

I purchase lawnmower starter cord of comparable diameter and change the string regularly, esp if it starts chafing.
Your serving material has to be approximately .030" in diameter and very strong. Any old Dynema material won't do. Highly suggest Halo (Angel Majesty is even better but hard to find over .026"..which works too>) There are other serving materials e.g BCY, Brownell's, etc. but the two above are the best I've tried. Serving material should be applied under considerable tension both on string and server to avoid separation)
Here's how to: http://crossbow-review.com/TechCorner/TechCorner.htm

[Boo]

Sounds like your trigger is bent back.

[Dereck]

I purchase lawnmower starter cord of comparable diameter and change the string regularly, esp if it starts chafing.
Your serving material has to be approximately .030" in diameter and very strong. Any old Dynema material won't do. Highly suggest Halo (Angel Majesty is even better but hard to find over .026"..which works too>) There are other serving materials e.g BCY, Brownell's, etc. but the two above are the best I've tried. Serving material should be applied under considerable tension both on string and server to avoid separation)
Here's how to: http://crossbow-review.com/TechCorner/TechCorner.htm

Boo once told me if you don't break the rods that come on a standard serving tool you are not doing it tight enough.
Replace rods with steel and do it as tight as possible and it will stand up for a good length of time

[strum]

Sounds like your trigger is bent back.

yatzee!!!

[Boo]

Sounds like your trigger is bent back.

yatzee!!!

If your trigger is bent back you won't be able to move the sear enough to release the latch. The trigger will hit the rear of the trigger guard. Look at the trigger shoe (the U shaped end that gets fastened by an allen bolt) for any irregular shape. If it is not dead perfectly straight then you've found your problem. There really isn't anything else that can cause a latch not to release other than rusty parts. Rusted parts will still move with assistance.

[Tee]

Put a new rope on the rope cocking aid. Used a braided 3 mm Dyneema rope with a breaking strength over 400 lbs.

Also, I spliced eye loops into the ends instead of using a knot. Knots weaken rope. A simple eye splice can retain almost 100% (between 95% and 99% depending on the splice) of the original strength. Used a simple 1/8" screw & post through the eye to retain the end in the rope aid handle.

Made the rope a tad shorter than the original. I really had to stretch with the original length to pull to the end and set the cocking mechanism. With the slightly shorter rope, it is much easier to get that last 1" to 2" to cock.

Also, I have decided to use the crankaroo to uncock the bow in the future. I have not been using the bow for the past 2 years since I had bypass surgery in 2011. So to get ready to use the bow again, for the past month or so I have been cocking and uncocking the bow using the rope aid at least once a day. The original rope was really cutting a deep groove in the stock while uncocking. The crankaroo will eliminate that concern.

[awshucks]

Also, I have decided to use the crankaroo to uncock the bow in the future.

Window, meet warranty. Bad move. Use a rope cocker instead......