String builders thread

[lovelight]

After many years of building my own bow strings, I've built a few crossbow strings and realized there are some meaningful differences. How about a thread where we share some lessons learned for those who might be interested in doing this for themselves? I'm happy to start with one observation:

1. Building bowstrings for a longbow or recurve vertical bow is cheaper and more forgiving than for a crossbow. Dacron B-50 is much, much less expensive and vertical bowstrings are more forgiving of small errors. If you have never built a Flemish twist string, consider practicing on a vertical traditional bow first.

[Boo]

It would be by far more efficient for you to ask for solutions on issues you're having.

[ComfyBear]

After many years of building my own bow strings, I've built a few crossbow strings and realized there are some meaningful differences. ...

1. Building bowstrings for a longbow or recurve vertical bow is cheaper and more forgiving than for a crossbow. Dacron B-50 is much, much less expensive and vertical bowstrings are more forgiving of small errors. If you have never built a Flemish twist string, consider practicing on a vertical traditional bow first.

I've made Flemish twist strings for Excaliburs since 2003, using a variety of different string materials. What I've found is that each material reacts differently, not only after the string is completed, but also while it is being made. In fact even the same material in different colours reacts differently.

That said, practicing making a string for a vertical bow will only give one the general idea of what is involved in string making. To produce a good quality string, takes a great amount of testing, dedication and years of practice.

If you don't believe me, you can ask Boo.

[Boo]

After many years of building my own bow strings, I've built a few crossbow strings and realized there are some meaningful differences. ...

1. Building bowstrings for a longbow or recurve vertical bow is cheaper and more forgiving than for a crossbow. Dacron B-50 is much, much less expensive and vertical bowstrings are more forgiving of small errors. If you have never built a Flemish twist string, consider practicing on a vertical traditional bow first.

I've made Flemish twist strings for Excaliburs since 2003, using a variety of different string materials. What I've found is that each material reacts differently, not only after the string is completed, but also while it is being made. In fact even the same material in different colours reacts differently.

That said, practicing making a string for a vertical bow will only give one the general idea of what is involved in string making. To produce a good quality string, takes a great amount of testing, dedication and years of practice.

If you don't believe me, you can ask Boo.

Lou is right. To get to where some of us are today advice helps a bit but years of trial and error will get you further. Just ask Lou! Much of how to make a string cannot be conveyed by words and has to be figured out yourself.
I started on the internet and bought some DVDs. I had no one to answer questions and just went at it. When I ran into problems I experimented.
Just ask the question and if you get answers you'll be far ahead of Lou and myself when we started.

[lovelight]

Understood about your offer to help, Boo. I would just suggest, there were some things that would benefit people up front instead of after the mistake was made. Or, maybe more commonly, tips they can incorporate to make a better string instead of one that is simply just serviceable.

Examples could include paying close attention to loop size so they are symmetric and a close fit. Another would be a modification of the common practice of waxing the entire bundle for a longbow. I've noticed that the string comes out a little nicer if I just wax one end and only enough to build that loop. This makes it easier to make a rounder string.

There's quite a few that come off the top of my head. It seems there is a benefit to sharing collective tips/tricks.

[Boo]

Depending on if you put your string on a rack to stretch and for how long the loop should take a little effort to go on the limb tip. There definitely should be no real slack the first time you put it on.
Waxing is a matter dependent on how much wax is on to start and the kind of wax. BCY's wax can be ordered with very little to a lot. I don't like BCY's wax because it isn't sticky. Although Brownell's wax is inconsistent I like theirs better because it is sticky. Brownell's cannot be ordered with a variance of wax, but sometimes I have to add my own and I add it to all or every other strand. That will give you more control over the strands and not just at the loops. Nothing better than homemade waxes because they have rosin in the mix. Information on that is available via the internet. Don't ask me for the formula because I think I've made a lifetime's supply or close to it so I deleted the information.

[onebigskittle]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NV82y6BUenA

[Boo]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NV82y6BUenA

Yep, information is that readily available!

[lovelight]

Another lesson learned was something I got from your youtube video, Boo, is the marking of the string center on the crossbow itself. I noticed that marking it on the stretcher does not come out as symmetric as if I do it on the bow. This is not a huge deal but if folks want a more professional looking string, using the bow seems to be more reliable.

In terms of making a really attractive string with a really attractive twist (not too loose and not too tight), that's yet again something learned via trial/error. The longer strings for vertical bows are more forgiving because they have more string over which to absorb additional twists. They are also under lighter loads than a crossbow meaning they will stretch less. Where you start the second loop on a crossbow string is more precise than on a longbow if you want a nice, pleasant twist that won't come unraveled.

[Boo]

It is difficult if not impossible to make a "perfect" string if you don't have a bow to model with. When I make a string it goes on the bow 3 times at minimum. Once to check length, second to mark center (if its the right length) and third after serving to check centering and setting brace height/string length.
Without question, everything is technically more critical on crossbow strings. The shorter length makes small changes into bigger differences. A small difference in bundle length is a larger percentage of the finished length. That's why I chose to make my strings and bundles differently from the the traditional method. Don't ask!

[lovelight]

Ah ha!! I knew there was some secret sauce in the Boo string tackle box. And I certainly would not expect you to give those up. However, it does reinforce the value of a professionally made string. Years and years of trial and error evolves the design and approach to trade performance, sound, and other factors. I suspect it is an ever evolving process as new materials show up and new things are learned. That all adds up over time.

Next thing I would put on the table is the benefit of using paper clamps to start your loops. I never bothered doing this with a longbow (although some do) because they are more forgiving. On a crossbow, it really helps with the quality of the loops. Maybe more to the point, being super methodical about techniques and measurement with a crossbow string is important. I would even go so far as to take notes on each string you make. Building a longbow string is normally fairly casual whereas building a crossbow string is more like reloading. The former can be done fairly well just by feel and the latter is more scientific.

[ComfyBear]

That's why I chose to make my strings and bundles differently from the the traditional method. Don't ask!

I don't need to ask, but if I did....

...I know, one should never ask about a master's "tricks of the trade"

Besides even if they were revealed, it would be like Michelangelo explaining how to paint the Sistine Chapel.

[Boo]

That's why I chose to make my strings and bundles differently from the the traditional method. Don't ask!

I don't need to ask, but if I did....

...I know, one should never ask about a master's "tricks of the trade"

Besides even if they were revealed, it would be like Michelangelo explaining how to paint the Sistine Chapel.

I've told you most of them Lou.

[ComfyBear]

That you have Don...and I've come to realize that making strings to that degree and quality takes more time and effort then the monetary returns.

That is why I don't compete with you.

[Cossack]

I must have made and unmade some 2 dozen 'test' strings using cheap material before I soloed with the real thing. I learned something new with each one I made. Nevertheless, the first "real" sting was a crude approximation of a Boo string. But,it shot a deer...with an arrow I assembled. That made it all worthwhile.
I pestered Don incessantly for tips on how-to and he graciously helped keep me on track. Have since made a lifetime supply of Flemish strings for my Vortex; and sent a handful with the Phoenix my neighbor now owns. Now focusing on making ELs for the two compounds I mess with. Stringmaking is not just an art it's a compulsion. I enjoy it as much as making my own arrows and reloading my own ammo..for much the same reason: part of me is involved in the 'final act.' Most rewarding and satisfying; tests the brain and the fingers.