Almost "screwed" Need Help *edit SUCCESS!!"

[Kegbelly]

Not sure if it's available in your area but I use something called PB Blaster, its a penetrating oil along the lines of WD40. It stinks to high heaven but man it works, it puts WD40 and the like to shame. I've used it to remove nuts and bolts that were so rusted they were just about fused together.

[Galgo]

Ok I will hit can tire tomorrow for some kroil and a bolt remover kit

Thanks guys

[Farmer]

What has worked for me is a concoction of acetone and ATF mixed 50 / 50 if you want a good penetrant . Another way you could remove your bolt would require a nut that would fit over the remaining shank and plug welding the nut to the shank of the bolt . It gives you some heat and you can use a socket or wrench to work the broken bolt out . ( vice grips generally do not work well for this type of job ) Have had very good results using this method in my farm shop .

[Species8472]

What has worked for me is a concoction of acetone and ATF mixed 50 / 50 if you want a good penetrant . Another way you could remove your bolt would require a nut that would fit over the remaining shank and plug welding the nut to the shank of the bolt . It gives you some heat and you can use a socket or wrench to work the broken bolt out . ( vice grips generally do not work well for this type of job ) Have had very good results using this method in my farm shop .

Good method - Similar to this you could clean up protruding thread and if there is space put 2 nuts onto thread and tighten inside nut against the outside nut and then use a crescent wrench on the inside nut to back the thread out.

[yooper_man]

I like Kroil myself and my lifetime supply looks healthy

I can tell you as an aircraft mechanic, Kroil is the best.

Andrew

[flightattendant100]

When you reach your goal and get it removed I suggest insurance by chasing your threads with a tap soaked in tapping fluid to clean the rust out. I see some rust in your riser/mainframe threads too.

Thanks enormous thye may be red lcotite too. Boo tied to remove them a couple years ago and could not so I had not touched them. I gave it a go on them tonight and tone did budge just a touch just like the stirrup bolt did before i started tio strip it and several allen keys.

All the bolts on this thing probably need an overhaul.

If Boo couldnt get them out with his BFH it aint comin' out! Get the drill and tap ready.

[Galgo]

[/quote]
If Boo couldnt get them out with his BFH it aint comin' out! Get the drill and tap ready. [/quote]

Nooooooooooo

[cdn.redneck]

remove the limbs and put some heat on the aluminium then remove the screw with vise grip. you should play clockwise and counter-clockwise to get it loose..... patience is a must so if you feel cranky leave it for later

[awshucks]

x whatever on the kroil and nut job........

[Kegbelly]

One more thought...if you end up being forced to use heat to break the bolt free, use heavy duty aluminum foil and wrap whatever you DONT want heated in several loose layers of foil, leaving only the part you want heated exposed. It helps act as a heat shield to protect other parts from open flame like a propane torch. Heat will still transmit thru the metal but it does help some.
I think your best bet would be with some good penetrating oil, stand the bow upright so gravity will help let the oil flow down into the threads, hit it several times a day for a couple days and then see if it breaks free. Hope you get it worked out.

[Galgo]

Thanks Guys i have already shredded that bolt pretty badly. I will let it soak as you suggested till sunday then give it one more try with heat, cold and anything in between and the nut removal tool that I can hopefully buy today. Not very optimistic but lets see how she goes. i will let you know.Thanks again for all the great advice!

F

[Normous]

One last thing that I may add to this. Once all is good to go don't solder all your new screws like one Rocking Ding a Ling suggested in another post recently.

Anyway, drilling and tapping slightly to the inside of the buggered tap and screw is likely your next option and easy to do. I doubt anyone will notice it.

[Waif]

To late now but on the next exposed bolt with head sheared off,(your picture a great example) thread at end can be filed so end of bolt is slightly rounded to allow a nut to thread on ,an additional nut can now be added, then the inside nut turned against outer one(being held secure while tightening )to bind in place. Thus allowing a greater purchase with a wrench on inner nut than with vice grips.

[Kegbelly]

Great idea Waif, if you have enough exposed threads on the stud and they're not too boogered up you can use a nut and a jam nut to effectively create a new bolt head. Plus you can use a longer wrench and get better leverage.

Another suggestion for next time it happens :
Sometimes when you strip out a hex head bolt you can use a slightly larger size hex wrench (or go from standard to slightly larger metric or vice versa) and drive the larger hex wrench into the stripped out bolt. Works best with socket type hex wrenches. I've had to do it more than once on the cheesy Chinese hardware that seems to bolt everything together nowadays.

[munch]

To late now but on the next exposed bolt with head sheared off,(your picture a great example) thread at end can be filed so end of bolt is slightly rounded to allow a nut to thread on ,an additional nut can now be added, then the inside nut turned against outer one(being held secure while tightening )to bind in place. Thus allowing a greater purchase with a wrench on inner nut than with vice grips.

i have taken lots of bolts out of equipment by just dropping a nut one size bigger over the stud then weld the nut to the bolt .the heat will travel up threw the bolt. let it cool a little then put a wrench on the nut to turn it out heres a link
http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=you ... B6A094930F