Arrow weight variation

[Kegbelly]

What's considered an acceptable amount of variation in weight between your arrows? I'm talking about total arrow weight including broadheads. Got some Big John arrows on the way that weigh within 1 grain of each other, so now I'm looking at my broadhead weights. Will a few grains difference between heads have much effect? I'm thinking it wont matter too much until you get into longer yardages.

[bdog]

Wont really make much diff, but if you weigh the shafts and heads separate, then put the heavier heads on the lighter shafts to try and get them close to the same weight...

[paulaboutform]

I agree with bdog. Weighing the heads as he mentioned will keep you much closer. My 350 gr Diablo shot within 1.5" of my 400gr BEE at 20yards off hand. Try it out and let us know what you find. Good luck.

[vixenmaster]

All above good info, i try to keep mine wid-in 3gr + or - of each other. If'en er shots are under 40 yds 10gr either way don't matter in killin a deer

[Bones]

You won't see a few grain variance , I certainly don't get concerned about it!

[Kegbelly]

Thanks guys, I didnt think a few grains would matter much, since just about all heads and tips usually come in 25-grain increments.
I've always had to do the mix-n-match thing with my broadheads and Firebolts, their weight can vary 2-3 grains on just the shaft. I'll be shooting a lot better arrow now than what I'm used to so thought it was worth askin'. It's that OCD thing again, I want laser beams Much obliged for the answers!

[JPjunkie]

Thanks guys, I didnt think a few grains would matter much, since just about all heads and tips usually come in 25-grain increments.
I've always had to do the mix-n-match thing with my broadheads and Firebolts, their weight can vary 2-3 grains on just the shaft. I'll be shooting a lot better arrow now than what I'm used to so thought it was worth askin'. It's that OCD thing again, I want laser beams Much obliged for the answers!

Your gettin em straight from Big John The ones he made me are like top notch darts

[Kegbelly]

Good advice! I'm no crack shot but I do OK. I practice with what I hunt with, thats why I like shooting my broadheads so much. Its hell on the target but the payoff is you know what it's gonna do. My .02

[JPjunkie]

Good advice! I'm no crack shot but I do OK. I practice with what I hunt with, thats why I like shooting my broadheads so much. Its hell on the target but the payoff is you know what it's gonna do. My .02

I think thats worth 10 cents

[TYE]

No that's worth more than 10 cents... replacing targets gets expensive..

[Big John]

That's a good question. Has a few answers as well. But for this one I'll answer one.
Having arrows that are weight matched, squared, and spin tested for quality before they get to you is a perfect start.
After that you know it's you or the other equipment that's needs tending.
After you have sighted in for all the distances you need to match your scope, then it's time to freehand practice as stated.
This is very important.!!!
As far as how many grains in weight difference will affect your arrows.
The answer is how finicky are you?
At twenty to 40 yds. a couple grains may not be a factor. More than a couple grains you will see that the heavier one will hit lower than the rest consistantly.
At 40 to 60 yds. you will see a difference in
the arrows that weigh even three grains heavier. Shooting from a rest and bench mind you.
Then if you open a package of field tips or Broadheads, they will say 100 or 125 gr.
But they will vary up to 2 gr.
So if your arrows are weighing a couple grains different, and your heads a couple grains different, it starts to add up.
Trying to match your heads to your arrows to make them right is okay. As long as they aren't weight matched already. Then matching heads will not work. You will have to weed out the heavier ones or double washer your light ones. Or make up your weight a different way.
It is always better to have custom arrows, they cost the same as store bought. It eliminates a couple problems associated with store bought.
Some are up to 7 or 8 grains difference in weight, then add heads that are a few grains different and you have a bit of a challenge.
Also remember that just having a cheap electronic scale to weigh your arrows doesn't mean they weigh that. They need to be calibrated frequently.!!!
The better the scale the better the readings.
Also having a Triple Beam to check means there is never a mistake.

Sorry for the ramble,
Big John

[RexKay]

That's a good ramble! Sound stuff fer sure.

[Kegbelly]

That's great information, thanks Big John!

[JPjunkie]

That's a good question. Has a few answers as well. But for this one I'll answer one.
Having arrows that are weight matched, squared, and spin tested for quality before they get to you is a perfect start.
After that you know it's you or the other equipment that's needs tending.
After you have sighted in for all the distances you need to match your scope, then it's time to freehand practice as stated.
This is very important.!!!
As far as how many grains in weight difference will affect your arrows.
The answer is how finicky are you?
At twenty to 40 yds. a couple grains may not be a factor. More than a couple grains you will see that the heavier one will hit lower than the rest consistantly.
At 40 to 60 yds. you will see a difference in
the arrows that weigh even three grains heavier. Shooting from a rest and bench mind you.
Then if you open a package of field tips or Broadheads, they will say 100 or 125 gr.
But they will vary up to 2 gr.
So if your arrows are weighing a couple grains different, and your heads a couple grains different, it starts to add up.
Trying to match your heads to your arrows to make them right is okay. As long as they aren't weight matched already. Then matching heads will not work. You will have to weed out the heavier ones or double washer your light ones. Or make up your weight a different way.
It is always better to have custom arrows, they cost the same as store bought. It eliminates a couple problems associated with store bought.
Some are up to 7 or 8 grains difference in weight, then add heads that are a few grains different and you have a bit of a challenge.
Also remember that just having a cheap electronic scale to weigh your arrows doesn't mean they weigh that. They need to be calibrated frequently.!!!
The better the scale the better the readings.
Also having a Triple Beam to check means there is never a mistake.
Feel free to ramble Your like an Encyclopedia for arras
Sorry for the ramble,
Big John

[jody5252]

All above good info, i try to keep mine wid-in 3gr + or - of each other. If'en er shots are under 40 yds 10gr either way don't matter in killin a deer

Well said... My thoughts exactly. those slight differences only matter to target/3D shooting.