broadhead for micro question
broadhead for micro question
I just ordered a micro from George, and he is making me some 16 inch Black Eagle arrows. I need to get some broadheads ordered, should I get 100 or 125 grain (Killzones) ? Thanks
Re: broadhead for micro question
What front insert will be coming in the arrows?
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Re: broadhead for micro question
Would need to know the complete makeup of the Quill i.e. vanes, front insert if brass what weight. What finished weight of quill before and BH. What weight Quill with BH are you hoping to shoot?donald_5d wrote:I just ordered a micro from George, and he is making me some 16 inch Black Eagle arrows. I need to get some broadheads ordered, should I get 100 or 125 grain (Killzones) ? Thanks
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Re: broadhead for micro question
I am using 100 gr with 80 gr inserts this gives me about 21 % FOC . Keeping around 2 to 2 1/2 inch group at 40 yards. The heads are Magnus stinger fixed 2 blade. 
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Re: broadhead for micro question
I'm using 100 grain heads, 92 grain inserts in the front. Very accurate for my needs.
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Re: broadhead for micro question
Get some 100gr Hammerheads great BH fer arrows in the 350-400gr range
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Re: broadhead for micro question
Thanks for the responses, I guess I'll have to get back with George on the rest of the specs. I didn't realize this was so complicated with so many variables. This is my first crossbow. Mostly I want to be sure I don't put something on it that may be unsafe.
Re: broadhead for micro question
George is a crossbow hunter, and I'm sure he kept all the important requirements in mind when he made up your arrows. 
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Re: broadhead for micro question
The only things that would be unsafe is shooting a broadhead tipped arrow without fletchings, cracked arrow shafts, too small a diameter shaft or a dramatically low spine.donald_5d wrote:Thanks for the responses, I guess I'll have to get back with George on the rest of the specs. I didn't realize this was so complicated with so many variables. This is my first crossbow. Mostly I want to be sure I don't put something on it that may be unsafe.
Getting all the specs is more about getting the most accuracy out of your bow.
Make sure your broadheads run true, if they aren't, they won't fly well no matter how small your broadheads are.
I can get 1" at 50 yards with my 405 using 1 1/16" G5 Strikers. With 1.5" G5 Striker Magnums, I get just under 2" at 50 yards. With these set ups, I have no perceptibe broadhead run out.
Your FOC will be important to good accuracy which is why I asked about your front insert. I wanted to use Luminoks this year so I did some testing. My Black Eagle Arrow Zombies have a 92 gr front insert and I normally use a 100 gr G5 Striker. Once I installed the Luminok, my groups opened up to about 4" at 40 yards. Swapping broadheads to the 125 gr G5 Striker Magnum brought my groups down to an inch at 40 yards. So if I had aluminum inserts, the arrow grouping would be pretty crappy.
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Re: broadhead for micro question
True Dan, George knows what he's doing, but the the OP should know what he has so he knows what he can do with his arrows.xcaliber wrote:George is a crossbow hunter, and I'm sure he kept all the important requirements in mind when he made up your arrows.
I often have a discussion on which insert to put in and sometimes it's what you hunt that determines your front insert. For example, I would always suggest a Moose hunter use 110 gr brass inserts. Also, if someone wants to use FOCs then 110 or even 92 gr brass inserts don't make any sense.
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Re: broadhead for micro question
Boo, Excaliber, others, correct me if you see error in my statement. The more surface area of the broadhead, the more it'll tend to steer, the more FOC it'll need to reduce the steering. A smaller BH will require less FOC, and a very low profile expandible(Schacker, FOC, others?) will need even less FOC(very close to a field point.
I've found that a 26g insert and a 170g fp or FOC BH gives excellent stability to beyond 100 yds with helical Blazers on 18" Zombies with plastic flat nocks. That's with 196gs in front with very light vanes(but with hi drag) and a very light nock. A small fixed blade Broadhead would require more FOC and a larger bladed BH would even more. Reasons for various weight inserts. What is clear though is light BHs and light inserts(AL) don't go together nor do heavy inserts(brass -normally 80-110g) and heavy, xbow specific BHs.
My belief (actually conviction) is that while excellent flying fixed bh's (various Slick Trick versions and the Boltcutters, etc) can be extremely accurate and shooting great groups at range(50+ yds), very low profile Expandibles will be closer to point of aim on a day to day basis. This is due to xwind effect.
My thoughts.
I've found that a 26g insert and a 170g fp or FOC BH gives excellent stability to beyond 100 yds with helical Blazers on 18" Zombies with plastic flat nocks. That's with 196gs in front with very light vanes(but with hi drag) and a very light nock. A small fixed blade Broadhead would require more FOC and a larger bladed BH would even more. Reasons for various weight inserts. What is clear though is light BHs and light inserts(AL) don't go together nor do heavy inserts(brass -normally 80-110g) and heavy, xbow specific BHs.
My belief (actually conviction) is that while excellent flying fixed bh's (various Slick Trick versions and the Boltcutters, etc) can be extremely accurate and shooting great groups at range(50+ yds), very low profile Expandibles will be closer to point of aim on a day to day basis. This is due to xwind effect.
My thoughts.
Re: broadhead for micro question
I'm thinking along the same terms Boo, and SEW. I would encourage every hunter to build the recipe that works for them, but to generalize, most people use deer hunting as the benchmark. Both of you build your own, and have a great deal of experience, and know what the end result is you're seeking. The three of us together can still only make assumptions.
My recipe is for whitetails.
Zombies / 92 grains of brass in the snout, 15" total length
20.5 grain aluminum rear nock
Total weight with 100 grain NAP Thunderheads 360 grains
Donald, I would shoot with the field points you intend the BH weight to be, and go with a proven head. If I was in a hurry to get ready for a hunt. I would go with 125 grain heads, practice with the head I intended to use, AND GO HUNT.
My recipe is for whitetails.
Zombies / 92 grains of brass in the snout, 15" total length
20.5 grain aluminum rear nock
Total weight with 100 grain NAP Thunderheads 360 grains
Donald, I would shoot with the field points you intend the BH weight to be, and go with a proven head. If I was in a hurry to get ready for a hunt. I would go with 125 grain heads, practice with the head I intended to use, AND GO HUNT.
It’s not the way you rock, it’s the way that you roll!
Re: broadhead for micro question
Steve, I agree with most of what you said. However, there are varying degrees of steering.
No broadhead will be truly 100% aligned. So, while it maybe true that large fixed heads may steer on a shaft that has more run-out or if the broadhead is poorly aligned, the rotational effect of the fletching will take care of any moderate steering. It is therefore imperative that arrow set ups with fixed broadheads spin as much as possible.
If you put an arrow with a broadhead on the bow it may point to one side, to the right for arguments sake. Without that rotational effect, that arrow will veer to the right. A lot of rotation will cause the arrow to travel straight but in a minor yaw or spiral. That is sometimes the reason some set ups result in larger groups no matter how hard the shooter tries and no matter how well the bow can potentially shoot.
So, I'll have to disagree with your first statement partially. I believe you need more FOC and more offset or helical to get large broadheads to shoot well. More FOC pulls the rest of the arrow forward straighter and fletchings steer from the rear.
Awshucks was witness to what a good amount of rear steering can do a couple of years ago. He was shooting a Slick Trick on a Gold Tip with 110 gr inserts and it hit something hard. He measured the run-out at 0.015". He was going to toss the broadhead and I installed it on my arrow with an aluminum insert and fletched with Blazers installed with an Arizona EZ Fletch Bolt. I handed the arrow to him and voila! His accuracy was gold!
The epilogue is that if you can find a perfectly straight arrow, install a wide broadhead perfectly straight, you would need a minor amount of FOC and a minor amount of steering from the rear.
No broadhead will be truly 100% aligned. So, while it maybe true that large fixed heads may steer on a shaft that has more run-out or if the broadhead is poorly aligned, the rotational effect of the fletching will take care of any moderate steering. It is therefore imperative that arrow set ups with fixed broadheads spin as much as possible.
If you put an arrow with a broadhead on the bow it may point to one side, to the right for arguments sake. Without that rotational effect, that arrow will veer to the right. A lot of rotation will cause the arrow to travel straight but in a minor yaw or spiral. That is sometimes the reason some set ups result in larger groups no matter how hard the shooter tries and no matter how well the bow can potentially shoot.
So, I'll have to disagree with your first statement partially. I believe you need more FOC and more offset or helical to get large broadheads to shoot well. More FOC pulls the rest of the arrow forward straighter and fletchings steer from the rear.
Awshucks was witness to what a good amount of rear steering can do a couple of years ago. He was shooting a Slick Trick on a Gold Tip with 110 gr inserts and it hit something hard. He measured the run-out at 0.015". He was going to toss the broadhead and I installed it on my arrow with an aluminum insert and fletched with Blazers installed with an Arizona EZ Fletch Bolt. I handed the arrow to him and voila! His accuracy was gold!
The epilogue is that if you can find a perfectly straight arrow, install a wide broadhead perfectly straight, you would need a minor amount of FOC and a minor amount of steering from the rear.
Some people just like stepping on rakes
Re: broadhead for micro question
Dan, while what you say is right in my eyes, what I was getting at is once you know what you have, you can choose with some certainty what will work and what will not without wasting speed. In short, he'll have enough knowledge to assume some starting points for broadheads weights.xcaliber wrote:I'm thinking along the same terms Boo, and SEW. I would encourage every hunter to build the recipe that works for them, but to generalize, most people use deer hunting as the benchmark. Both of you build your own, and have a great deal of experience, and know what the end result is you're seeking. The three of us together can still only make assumptions.
My recipe is for whitetails.
Zombies / 92 grains of brass in the snout, 15" total length
20.5 grain aluminum rear nock
Total weight with 100 grain NAP Thunderheads 360 grains
Donald, I would shoot with the field points you intend the BH weight to be, and go with a proven head. If I was in a hurry to get ready for a hunt. I would go with 125 grain heads, practice with the head I intended to use, AND GO HUNT.
So if Donald knows he has aluminum front inserts he knows the go to broadhead weight is 150 gr and higher. If he has 80 gr inserts he can go from 100 to 150 gr broadheads. If he has 110 gr inserts his go to should be 100 gr and 125 gr.
If moose was on my menu I would think about 80 gr inserts and 175/170 gr broadheads. That way I can use the arrow assembly with 125 gr broadheads for deer.
Regardless of what gets sent to him, something will work and knowing what insert is installed will make life easier for him.
Some people just like stepping on rakes
Re: broadhead for micro question
Now that was some very interesting reading right there!!!Talking about learning off this forum...Slap me down with knowledge .........
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