About inserts...

[Troubleshooter]

A few stupid question about front-inserts, because i just don't know a thing about it...

I want to change my front insert. Heavier inserts makes more KE and more accuracy, if i'm right.

1. What are the choises in weight?
2. What is the weight of the original insert of the excal firebolt?
3. Is it also possible to do a screw in the original insert to make it heavier / has this method an disadvantage?

Thanks for your help!

[bob watkins]

basic inserts about 28 gr brass 80-95-110- i use mostly 110 with black eagles hope this helps

[Troubleshooter]

Thank you, BoB.

So, does it begin with 28 grains and this is going up by 15 grain a time?

I don't know what 'brass' means....

Can i pull the insert of the firebolt out by doïng a screw in it and pull it out? And do i have to glue the new insert in the bolt? Or is it tight enough.

Dumb questions...i know.

[scope422]

Brass is the type of metal the insert is made of. Aluminum is lighter, much lighter. Brass is heavier. Since crossbow bolts are shorter then regular arrows you need more weight in the front for better flight and balance. You generally want brass inserts for all crossbow bolts. Most use the 110gr brass inserts but on bolts shorter then 20" you can go with slightly lighter brass insert options. Also the field point\broadhead weight is a consideration. For example, you might decide on a 110gr insert with a 100gr broadhead. Or a 92gr insert with a 125gr broadhead. It gets complicated with point of balance on the arrow. If you have an option, just go with 110 gr brass inserts, seems to work best in most cases.

[paulaboutform]

The only dumb question is the one that isn't asked.
Brass is referring to what the insert is made of and weighs more than the aluminum inserts. The factory inserts are aluminum. You can remove them but there is a strong possibility you'll damage your arrow. You can leave your field point in and heat the point with a lighter or small butane torch. It helps if you can put the point in a vice and heat it so you can maintain pulling pressure on the arrow at the same time. Make sure you're pulling perfectly straight or you'll break your arrow. Getting it out is Step 1.

Step two is the proper prep and cleaning of the shaft and insert before gluing. You can put the insert-less shafts into a jar of acetone for about a half hour. Remove one at a time and swab out immediately with a q-tip. Clean with a 30 caliber bore brush, brass not nylon, and clean with acetone again. Clean your brass inserts with acetone as well. Use a good cyanoacrylate based epoxy like G5blue Glue or goat tuff. If you're stuck pm me.

Paul

[Cossack]

Or y7ou can use your present inserts and use say 175 gr tips. Many ways to skin the arrow-weight cat. Inserts are generally not easy to remove, heat must be applied CAREFULLY.

[Troubleshooter]

Well, i must say: those were really great answers an helped me really out.

Thank you all very much!: scope 422 / Paul / Cossack

[carperdoug]

You may want to try the Clean Shot "Lock-n-Load" inserts. These are not glued in. Interchangeable inserts. They come in 112 and 92 grain weights, .300 id shafts. They allow ease for tuning or aligning your broad heads. I find these very "handy" to try different configurations. I just don't like the idea of heating the shafts/inserts.

These inserts have worked wonders for me trying to determine best accuracy arrows. Frankly much easier on my wallet also.