KNIFE SHARPENING

KNIGHTS OF NI · Post by **KNIGHTS OF NI** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 4:34 pm

HI GUYS
LIKE EVERY ONE ELSE I AM EAGER FOR THE HUNTING SEASON TO BEGIN

I HAVE ALWAYS WANTED A GOOD KNIFE TO TAKE WITH ME.
AND I FINALY PURCHACED A COLD STEEL UWK WITH A HIGH CARBON BLADE.
THE KNIFE IS GREAT, STRONG AND VERY SHARP

I HAVE NEVER BEEN VERY GOOD AT SHARPENING MY OWN KNIVES, AND NOW I HAVE A GOOD ONE I WANT TO BE ABLE TO KEEP A GOOD CUTTING EDGE ON IT.
WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO KEEP A SHAVING SHARP EDGE ON IT?
ANY ADVICE WILL BE APPRECIATED.
THE SOONER THE DEER IS SKINNED THE SOONER I CAN DRINK MY COGNAC!!

THANKYOU
KNIGHTS OF NI

wabi · Post by **wabi** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 5:25 pm

To keep a shaving edge don't let it get dull. I have a set of crock sticks on my bench and sharpen my pocket knife almost daily. If you keep it sharp it's easy, if you let it get dull (I mean really dull!) it's a lot of work with a good set of stones to bring it back.
Not sure where I got the crock sticks, but I've had them for years. They're mounted in a wooden base that holds them at the correct angle for sharpening.
A lot of the new diamond stones are good, too - but I have never needed to buy a set as I make it a point to keep my hunting knives sharp. After skinning a deer, a few licks on a good hard Arkansas stone, and then the crock sticks and it's shaving sharp again quickly!

ComfyBear · Post by **ComfyBear** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 6:16 pm

Cold Steel knives are made of good quality, very hard steel, so they hold their edge longer than most, because of this, if dulled, sharping them is very labour intensive. So keep it sharp.

Ontario Bow Hunter · Post by **Ontario Bow Hunter** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 6:21 pm

I'm able to keep my knives sharp enough that I can shave with them,.. no kidding! Use a good diamond stone. Be sure of the angle that you’re holding the stone. To finish it off use some honing compound on an old leather belt and work the knife on it until you can see a nice smooth shiny surface. Test it on your arm hair.

Bert · Post by **Bert** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 7:09 pm

I bought a lansky sharpening system a few years back and it's the best investment i've made in years. It uses a jig and various stones depending on how dull your knife is to start with. The jig guarantees the perfect angle on both sides of the blade. I use the 25 degree slot on the jig for a sharp but ruged edge. hink a similiar unit is on the market under the brand of Gatco. Either one will work well--about $40 or $50 cdn.
Good luck
Bert,

Newbi · Post by **Newbi** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 8:45 pm

I agree with Wabi. I have had a set of Spyderco ceramic sticks for years. Have always been able to keep a razor edge on all my blades including solid blade broadheads. I broke one of the sticks a few months ago

but it is still long enough to do the job. I just have to move a bit more diliberately and slower.

raspberry patch · Post by **raspberry patch** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 9:30 pm

What I have learnt from other fine craftsmen and scientists, the best edge is achieved from:
... 1. Using a jig, consistent angle
... 2. Touch-it up before it gets dull
... 3. Sharpen with Waterstones (Norton is great, Japanese is okay)

For making bamboo rods, and taking shavings of 0.001" inch with no chatter, my blades were/are initially formed with a black DMT waterstone.

Then I progress to a 800x, 4000x and finally hone off a 8000x waterstone. I could progress to diamond paste, but being able to shave with this and getting no chatter, I find this suffices.

Much research and my experience has shown waterstones out-perform arkansas or diamond stones. (diamond paper is another story).

But for knives, I do not go to this depth of effort. I use a belt sander (1"x42"), and free-form the edge. I use 3M mylar belts from 80 micron to 9 micron. If desired, I can hone with a paste on a leather belt, though, I can easily get an edge that is a mirror surface with the 9u grit.

Belts I use are similar to:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp? ... ncy=1&SID=

It is easy and produces a fine edge that has serve my needs well (but for the best edge, then it is waterstones)

raspberry patch · Post by **raspberry patch** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 9:40 pm

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00003.asp

but it is focused on chisels and planes

GaryL · Post by **GaryL** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 9:45 pm

Thanks for the information raspberry patch, I am going to try your method.

raspberry patch · Post by **raspberry patch** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 9:59 pm

GaryL,

Your Welcome. A couple of other links ...

http://www.worldknives.com/wkknifesharpening.html
http://www.bladegallery.com/information ... neCare.asp

As an aside, todate, 3 people have after seeing my belt and results have also created their own belt sharpening station.

I will also use it for major dressing of tools or in the creation of a new tool.

Good luck,
David

.... the other issue affecting quality of cut, which is plane and chisel specific, and does not apply to knives (as least not that much) is how true the tool is. Most planes and chisels are from from true when purchased.

Rick Frigault · Post by **Rick Frigault** » Sat Sep 11, 2004 6:21 am

I am a knifemaker, and when someone has bought one of my knives and asks "How can I keep it this sharp"?
I tell them that I use a "Firestone" sharpener to keep all my knives sharp!
The Firestone sharpener has 4 little round ceramic wheels that you draw the knife through, sharpening both sides of the edge at the same time!
The firestone comes with a set of course and fine wheels and is very easy and fast to use! It is also very compacted to be used in the field!
I don't really know any place here in Canada that sells them other then myself! Later today, I will try to post a photo of them!

If you would like to know more about the Firestone sharpening system, feel free to email me!

GaryL · Post by **GaryL** » Sat Sep 11, 2004 9:35 am

Thanks for your information also Rick Frigault, will check out your links too.

raspberry patch · Post by **raspberry patch** » Sat Sep 11, 2004 1:42 pm

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp? ... ncy=1&SID=

another discussed earlier
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp? ... ncy=1&SID=

Woodsman · Post by **Woodsman** » Sat Sep 11, 2004 6:47 pm

I suppose you can make knife sharpening a hobby all of it's own!

I use a plain old Rapala $5.00 knife sharpener. I know. I know. That's plain heresy! ...but it works great and it leaves me time for other hobbies I enjoy!

raspberry patch · Post by **raspberry patch** » Sat Sep 11, 2004 9:12 pm

Woodsman,

I thought knife making would be a great hobby, but sharpening - not!

My hobby is fly-fishing, and it has gotten to the point were I make my own bamboo rods, and have developed a fine set of tools-techniques. But I developed these tools-techniques to accomplish my hobby. The waterstones are great, but it is time consuming.

For my spam knives, I use a belt sander. I use it for sanding bamboo and with a quick change of the belts, I can sharpen knives by freehand and get a edge than handles all spam needs well. It is good enough for the spam and fast.

I am new to hunting, so I have yet develop any experience to state how sharp a knife needs to be for field dressing a deer. Or in others words, "what is sharp enough?"

As a young pup, I worked with an old line cutter (Orville was his name, no kidding) in Northern Quebec years ago. Orville used a file and stone (arkansas, I believe) to keep his axe sharp. It was sharp and with an experienced arm, the trees game down with an efficiency that awed me!

So a stone and file maybe all one needs.

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You could, but it aint mine