Wasp Series II Cam-Lok's
Moderator: Excalibur Marketing Dude
I'm wondering how well this device works with heads that are NOT cut-on-contact design? I realize that the picture may not tell all, but it looks to me as though it would be hard to sharpen right to the front of the blade, right up to where the tip starts. Do you have to take the blade out of the head to sharpen it?bstout wrote:The Series II has a larger cutting diameter. They make a big hole and an excellent exit wound making for a good blood trail.
Here is what I use to sharpen my heads. It is completely adjustable to match almost any type of hunting head. With a little practice you can get the blades much sharper than they come from the factory but more important you can keep them that way. This sharpener is made by Diamond and you use it with water never oil.
Thanks
Norman
"Gun Control Laws"--trying to nag criminals into submission.
Anyone out there experienced Rocky Mtn broadheads?
I bought a set of 100 gr T-100 titaniums, and the 100 gr mechanical Snyper. I'm really liking the Snyper!!! It uses "cam-action" in opening, in other word's, the blades open from the front, not hinged on the rear of the ferrule.
http://www.rockymtbroadheads.com/01-snyper.html
I bought a set of 100 gr T-100 titaniums, and the 100 gr mechanical Snyper. I'm really liking the Snyper!!! It uses "cam-action" in opening, in other word's, the blades open from the front, not hinged on the rear of the ferrule.
http://www.rockymtbroadheads.com/01-snyper.html
-Hawkeye
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"No trees were killed in the sending of this message. However, a large number of electrons were inconvenienced"