Bolts and broadheads for Phoenix.

[scmiata1990]

Hello,

First of all thank you to the people that have contributed their
knowledge and opinions to this site. It has helped imminsely to
a first time crossbow hunter like myself.

I just purchased a 2007 Phoenix and I am looking for opinions
on bolts and broadheads for hunting whitetail. Price/durability is an important consideration but of course I must also have accuracy/consistency.

I have read many of the past reviews including the recent opinions given concerning the bolts/broadheads for the Equinox, (225lbs vs
my Phoenix's 175lbs).

Thinking of 2216 XX75 excalibur bolts, (a compromise between
the durability and hiting power of the 2219 and the fast flight times
of the 2213).

For broadheads I've been considering the 100 grain Magmum Slicktracks,
(little wider cut than the regular Slicktricks).

I will obviously be out practising, checking patterns and sighting in the scope but I would like to avoid going through too many different bolts/broadheads combinations before finding a compentent set.

Does this seem to be a reasonable place to start?

Thanks

Danny

[Big John]

I would say that is an excellent place to start. And you will probably stay with that set-up for a while!

Good luck!

John

[Normous]

I agree with John as well. Also, the 2" Blazer vane would complement that bolt broadhead combo very well.
Welcome.

[wabi]

No experience with the magnum slicks, but the 2216 is a great choice for the arrow. I'd say that combination should work well.

[sumner4991]

First of all . . .what will be your absolute longest shot?

If you are hunting in an area that only offers a 20 yard shot or less, I'd say your set-up is OK. If you are looking at shooting further than 20 yards, then I would suggest a mechanical broadhead. Probably a WASP SST with a 1.75 inch cut. I have tested the Slicktricks(a lot) and I'm good with them on short distances, but, they tend to plane on longer shots.

Obviously, the wider cut is more efficient for archery purposes. After all, we are killing via loss of blood. So, go as large as possible with the cut and still get an exit wound. Would be best to get a clean pass through, but, I have found that we don't need that to have a very quick kill. Might try a Areohead Stricknine . . .2" cut and an awesome looking tip. I currently use the Areohead Hammerhead and it's amazing.

No need to rush your choice . . .there may be some new products before the next season.

Congrats on your purchase and welcome.

Scott

[scmiata1990]

First of all . . .what will be your absolute longest shot?

If you are hunting in an area that only offers a 20 yard shot or less, I'd say your set-up is OK. If you are looking at shooting further than 20 yards, then I would suggest a mechanical broadhead. Probably a WASP SST with a 1.75 inch cut. I have tested the Slicktricks(a lot) and I'm good with them on short distances, but, they tend to plane on longer shots.



Obviously, the wider cut is more efficient for archery purposes. After all, we are killing via loss of blood. So, go as large as possible with the cut and still get an exit wound. Would be best to get a clean pass through, but, I have found that we don't need that to have a very quick kill. Might try a Areohead Stricknine . . .2" cut and an awesome looking tip. I currently use the Areohead Hammerhead and it's amazing.

No need to rush your choice . . .there may be some new products before the next season.


Congrats on your purchase and welcome.

Scott

The distances will vary depending on which stand I use. Some are set
up in the bush so shots will likely be 20 yards or less. Some of the stands
will be set up on the edge of a corn field so shots could be taken at a greater distance. I did shoot bows and rifles competitiively as a kid but
I'm not sure what my confidence level will be for longer shots with this crossbow yet. I've read of people in the forum taking deer at 40-50 yards but I think with the Phoenix and the importance for me of having a quick/humane kill, I'll keep the shots closer to the 30yard range.

Thanks for the advice on the mechanicals. They will be worth experimenting with.

I've also read of people using bolts shorter than the stock 20inches with the Phoenix. Is there any advantage/disadvantage to this?

I will likely get the bolts soon so that I can get out during turkey season a little bit.

Thanks

Danny

[scratcherky]

Watch out using the mechanicals! It is not a question that they will fail, only when.

[wabi]

Watch out using the mechanicals! It is not a question that they will fail, only when.

Have to agree!!!!!!!!

......... I would suggest a mechanical broadhead. Probably a WASP SST with a 1.75 inch cut.

Exactly the one that DID fail for me this year!!!!!!!!


Been using Wasp JakHammer SST 1.75" cut for years now and had awesome results. Great blood trail, short recovery, never lost a deer. Then this year I had an opportunity for a perfect slightly quartering away shot. I went for the heart & got it - thankfully!!!!!! The broadhead went completely through the deer (and through the heart) and was still banded closed when I recovered the arrow!!!!!!!
Mechanicals fly great, they have awesome cutting diameters, but they are "mechanical", and anything with moving parts can fail.
From now on it's fixed blades only for me!
I figure if an unopened mechanical (5/8 to 3/4" cut?) through the heart will kill a deer quickly, a 1 1/8" cut in the heart (or lungs) will kill quickly, too. If I can't put the broadhead where it needs to go I won't pull the trigger. About all my archery deer have been killed at less than 20 yards. I may have one or two between 20 & 30, but I've got a few under 10 yards, too. At those ranges it's not too hard to put the broadhead exactly where you want it to go, so why take a chance on a mechanical failing?

Not trying to start a debate, but if you try some of the well known, popular fixed blade broadheads you will find mentioned in the posts on this forum you will find one that has great accuracy with your bow. I've never seen a problem with accuracy with the G-5 Montecs I use, and I have tried them out to 35 yards. I wouldn't try a deer beyond that range, and would be reluctant to even try that far, but if I had to I know the broadhead would go where I aimed it!

[sumner4991]

wabi . . .I disagree with you . . .the WASP SST did not fail, merely did not open. It still dropped your deer. I can't remember, did you have two O-rings on that WASP? I'm sticking to rubberbands . . .never had one open prior to impact, yet. If I shoot enough, then I may eventually have it happen, I guess. If I were you I'd keep using the WASP SST's . . .they have never let you down.

I shot a deer with a Slicktrick this season in what really looked like a double lung. Slightly uphill from me, 25 yards, very little blood trail, and I failed to recover. Followed the trail for about 30 yards into the brush and lost it. I just don't think that's the case with a large cut mechanical.

I do like the Areohead Mechanicals and I like using the rubberbands. The rubberbands seem to release easier. The O-rings can become very stiff.

wabi . . .your broadhead not opening was a fluke. It's more likely that a mechanical will open prior to impact. Even with these odd premature openings or not openings from a mechanical, I still like them best. The fixed blades plane on EVERY shot . . .just a matter of how much.

The facts . . .broadheads kill via loss of blood, there will be a higher amount of blood loss from a larger cut. Therefore, the mechanicals will drop a deer quicker everytime on a hit to the same spot because of the larger cut.

There are pros and cons to both fixed blades and mechanicals. The only con on a mechanical is the slim chance of failing. However, they are more accurate, easy to install(no tuning) and bigger cutting. Every mechanical I've tested has flown EXACTLY like my field points. . .I can't say that about the fixed blades.

I think a 20 yard shot is a long one for a fixed blade broadhead. However, a mechanical will stay true for a longer shot. I'm still keeping my shots under 35 yards, however, I've hit the bullseye consistantly at 50 yards with a mechanical. I have trouble consistantly hitting the bullseye over 35 yards with a fixed blade.

OK . . .I'm rambling . . .thoughts going all over the place(as you can see) . . .all broadheads can be used successfully. Just use what you have confidence with using, that will come from trial and error.

[Esox]

Gotta' agree with Wabi... Those mechanicals have a a lot of guys using them and I've no problem with them... Fly great, works well, BUT for me, "potential" problems are things to avoid......If I get a chance at a big buck I want nothing to go wrong...

Best bet is to try them both. There are manay heads and arrow combinations out there and keep an eye out on this website, the topic comes up ALL the time...

There are so many variables involved you'll have to do your own testing... That's the fun part... Once you have your arrow out doped out, make sure each arrow flys the same... That's where some guys go wrong... They make up a group of arrows and expect them all to fly the same but often individual arrows will fly differently... Work up a No1, No2, No3 and so on this way you'll have confidence when to aim down on a big buck.....

[sumner4991]

If I avoided things because something might go wrong. . .then I wouldn't get out of bed.

You have a greater chance of not recovering that big buck because the blood trail ends prematurely with the small cuts, especially on a large animal. An even greater chance that the wind will throw the fixed blades off course. Put these two items together on the same shot and it's potiential trouble. These two things happen on every shot you take with a fixed blade broadhead. A faulty opening with a mechanical rarely happpens. It's only happened with me using the Spitfires which do not use a rubberband or a o-ring, according to NAP, they are not made for the high speed bows. However, their Spitfire Magnums(only 1.25" cut) are specifically made for high speed.

I just know for a fact that since I switched to the larger cut, I have not had to track a deer. However, I'm only two deer into the testing. With the fixed blade I have had only a few drop in their tracks and several long tracking jobs, with four ending up as unrecovered(this includes my compound days).

wabi . . .I just have a hard time turning my back on something that has an 100% success rate. Start using rubberbands . . .I use my kids leftovers from their braces. Those rubberbands are consistant . . .I'll see if they are available via internet.

[Cossack]

Using GT Lazer II's shafts, with 110 gr brass insert and 2" Blazer vanes, I'm getting AWESOME performance (both accuracy and terminal) with 100 gr Slick Trick magnums out of my Vortex. No reason to think that your Phoenix would be any different.

[fuzzy]

...

[hawg hunter]

Your on the right track with the "slicks" . Sooner or later a mech will let you down. I know that shooting a fixed bh is one last thing to worry about.

[scmiata1990]

Great comment!!!!

You know I guess, that is the indepth information that I really need. With
the 100 grain Slicktrick Magnum braodhead and the Excalibur XX75 2216 bolt will I have sufficient FOC/fletching necessary?

Any data/thoughts?

scmiata1990 I think if you have enough FOC and large/tall/stiff enough fletching to promote steering controll from the rear of the arrow there should be no issues in obtaining excellant fixed head performance at any speed or any distance for most heads. There are a few of everything that simply won't perform including mechanicals A little tweeking/experimenting goes a long way