If your trigger is bent back you won't be able to move the sear enough to release the latch. The trigger will hit the rear of the trigger guard. Look at the trigger shoe (the U shaped end that gets fastened by an allen bolt) for any irregular shape. If it is not dead perfectly straight then you've found your problem. There really isn't anything else that can cause a latch not to release other than rusty parts. Rusted parts will still move with assistance.strum wrote:yatzee!!!Boo wrote:Sounds like your trigger is bent back.
Cocking mechanism doesn't work after dryfire
Re: Cocking mechanism doesn't work after dryfire
Some people just like stepping on rakes
Re: Cocking mechanism doesn't work after dryfire
Put a new rope on the rope cocking aid. Used a braided 3 mm Dyneema rope with a breaking strength over 400 lbs.
Also, I spliced eye loops into the ends instead of using a knot. Knots weaken rope. A simple eye splice can retain almost 100% (between 95% and 99% depending on the splice) of the original strength. Used a simple 1/8" screw & post through the eye to retain the end in the rope aid handle.
Made the rope a tad shorter than the original. I really had to stretch with the original length to pull to the end and set the cocking mechanism. With the slightly shorter rope, it is much easier to get that last 1" to 2" to cock.
Also, I have decided to use the crankaroo to uncock the bow in the future. I have not been using the bow for the past 2 years since I had bypass surgery in 2011. So to get ready to use the bow again, for the past month or so I have been cocking and uncocking the bow using the rope aid at least once a day. The original rope was really cutting a deep groove in the stock while uncocking. The crankaroo will eliminate that concern.
Also, I spliced eye loops into the ends instead of using a knot. Knots weaken rope. A simple eye splice can retain almost 100% (between 95% and 99% depending on the splice) of the original strength. Used a simple 1/8" screw & post through the eye to retain the end in the rope aid handle.
Made the rope a tad shorter than the original. I really had to stretch with the original length to pull to the end and set the cocking mechanism. With the slightly shorter rope, it is much easier to get that last 1" to 2" to cock.
Also, I have decided to use the crankaroo to uncock the bow in the future. I have not been using the bow for the past 2 years since I had bypass surgery in 2011. So to get ready to use the bow again, for the past month or so I have been cocking and uncocking the bow using the rope aid at least once a day. The original rope was really cutting a deep groove in the stock while uncocking. The crankaroo will eliminate that concern.
If you are alwys rushing to the future,
Then you never have any NOW.
Then you never have any NOW.
Re: Cocking mechanism doesn't work after dryfire
Window, meet warranty.Also, I have decided to use the crankaroo to uncock the bow in the future.

"Eze 18:21"
Re: Cocking mechanism doesn't work after dryfire
you didn't say ...was the trigger bent?
Micro RTX
Nikon Bolt XR
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Nikon Bolt XR
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Slick Trick Magnum
Unshot Beta Chrony
John3:16
Re: Cocking mechanism doesn't work after dryfire
I would prefer to not dmage the stock any further. Warranty or no warranty.awshucks wrote:Window, meet warranty.Also, I have decided to use the crankaroo to uncock the bow in the future.Bad move. Use a rope cocker instead......
If you are alwys rushing to the future,
Then you never have any NOW.
Then you never have any NOW.
Re: Cocking mechanism doesn't work after dryfire
I could see nothing wrong with the trigger mechanism. Once removed from the rail, it worked flawlessly. The trigger itself is such a massive peice of metal, I personnally do not see how it could be bent.strum wrote:you didn't say ...was the trigger bent?
I am currently favoring the opinion that something got kicked into the mechanism by the dry fire and blocked the mechanism somehow. Upon removal of the whole mechanism from the rail, the blockage was dislodged and freed the mechanism.
If you are alwys rushing to the future,
Then you never have any NOW.
Then you never have any NOW.
Re: Cocking mechanism doesn't work after dryfire
The trigger is the black piece of metal you put your finger on. The trigger unit is the mechanism that the scope base screws onto. The trigger shoe is the "U" shaped part of the trigger that gets screwed onto the trigger unit.Tee wrote:I could see nothing wrong with the trigger mechanism. Once removed from the rail, it worked flawlessly. The trigger itself is such a massive peice of metal, I personnally do not see how it could be bent.strum wrote:you didn't say ...was the trigger bent?
I am currently favoring the opinion that something got kicked into the mechanism by the dry fire and blocked the mechanism somehow. Upon removal of the whole mechanism from the rail, the blockage was dislodged and freed the mechanism.
I know the trigger unit better than most and there is nothing inside that can block the latch solidly.
If there is a foreign object inside that did block the trigger then this situation will occur again and it may cause a dangerous situation.
The trigger shoe is easily bent especially if you had the stock off.
Either way if you have not resolved the issue that caused your situation you are at risk of it happening again. If it does happen again it may be cocked and who knows if it may release by itself. You might be hurt, you may miss a shot on the buck of your life.
Its your bow. Please do not take offense I'm not telling you what to do. I am only trying to lend you some free advice. At this point I believe you are crossing your fingers and hoping for the best. I wish you luck and health. Personally I would rather know 100% that the original cause has been corrected. But that's me.
Some people just like stepping on rakes