I prefer carbon bolts. I have a garage full of aluminum arrows from my (vertical) recurve that I buggered up over the years - could never effectively straighten them.
I just find with carbon that they either stay straight or they are toast. As an aside, I "assume" that any time I pull the trigger on a game animal that the bolt/broadhead will be "toast" - kinda the cost of the kill - if they survive, great, but I don't count on it.
Also agree that you need to find what you AND your bow likes to shoot. That can get expensive if you start out with the high end arrows.
I tested 8 or 9 different shafts - started with factory fletching and after testing re-fletched myself with some other options.
Ultimately I settled on Gold Tip Laser II's with extreme FOC. Not because numerous other combinations didn't work "fine", I just got the tightest groups in all kinds of different wind conditions shooting them.
A 2219 aluminum will work "ok" and if the grouping is "good enough" for what you want/expect - basically if YOU are happy with them, they are economical enough (can buy them individually for about $4.75 each).
If you are looking for a "heavier" bolt in carbon then you do have a few choices in arrows costing "under 7 bucks a crack" (weights are given with a 100 grain broadhead) -
Gold Tip Laser III's (428 grains) or even IV's (491 grains) at about $6.75 per.
Beman "Pork Chops" (400 grains @ about $5.75 per).
Carbon Express Piledrivers (442 grains @ $5.90 per)
Places like Lancaster Archery (
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/) will sell you as little as a single arrow, so you can mix/match if you want - get a couple of each of 3 different bolts and see what you like best....